Le Fleuron 1729 - 64 Gun Ship PoB Scratch Build in 1:48 - (Ancre Monograph-J. Boudriot/G. Delacroix)

Hoss6262 said:
Thank you all for the warm welcome back, taking the time to visit, and all the likes.

A small update. I started planking the hull, between first and second gun decks, only to realize I'm human and to be one is to err. :rolleyes: After planking the bottom three of four runs of planks, I realized that the gun port cutouts on the bottom plank were incorrect, as they accounted for the sills of the ports extending to the outer edge of the external planks. I decided not to follow this standard for cosmetic reasons. The result was that the cutout was vertically too large. So off it came, and I'm now in the process of reconfiguring.

So as we do, when we get stuck, we take a small step of testing the plank fasteners' appearance, treenails, and bolts. French 74s of the period typically had a combination of treenails and iron bolts, offset and alternated, below the waterline. I will not be following this standard, installing treenails only below the waterline.
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Photos of some test samples are below. Plank and treenail tests have different combinations of treatments. Planks include sanding sealer, Tung Oil, Bitumen wash with white spirits, and Bitumen/bees wax. Treenails are all of the same pearwood as the planks, but have three different treatments, including 1) no treatment, 2) flat black paint, and 3) graphite treated low viscosity PA glue applied during installation.

View attachment 513691

Although the samples are all relatively close in appearance, there are some subtle differences. I've yet to decide which I prefer. Input is always welcome.

So we all know the importance of using GREEN mats. I think I've uncovered some false advertisement in marketing. Mine are supposed to be "self-healing". I'm waiting for the drill holes to heal themselves! ROTF :rolleyes:
View attachment 513704View attachment 513705For the Wales bolts, I wanted to use copper or something similar. The photo below shows half-hard square copper wire as well as half-hard square red brass wire. From the usual viewing distance, you really can't tell the difference. Under magnification, the differences are slight. The key difference is that, even though both are "half-hard," the red brass was noticeably harder and therefore easier to work with during installation. So the decision has been made.

Thanks for stopping by to visit.
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I like those 'B' results *below). The treenails are subtle and thin caulking.

1744685888919.png
 
Hoss6262 said:
Jim, Peter, and Grant, thank you for the input. I was leaning this way, as well, but was not sure if they were too subtle. Fortunately, they are the easiest to apply. Thanks agains.
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First, I'd probably pick the easiest. Most people wouldn't notice the difference, maybe not even Paul. Second, I prefer the more subtle look on treenails. When I look at real ships, they're hardly noticeable.
 
Someone asked me a question in DM. I will answer here, with the hopes of perhaps helping others that may have the same question.

"Quick question for you - I read your post and will be using some for the bolts on the frames on my La Renomme build soon. I noticed you prefer the half hard variety which makes sense. I could not tell in the photo but I am leaning towards Red Brass vs Yellow Brass as I will not be blackening and hope that it will dull down over time."

All three, Yellow Brass, Red Brass and Copper will tarnish naturally over time. At what speed, relative to each other? I don't know. But the key is to make sure the wire that is being used, especially if it's being purchased from a jewelry outlet, is that the wire is "uncoated", or unprotected. Many jewelry outlets sell coated wire, understandably so the jewelry being made does NOT tarnish. Make sure it's uncoated or it will not tarnish, blacken or accept any other treatment applied.

Personally, I wanted to use copper for the same reason as you. But due to the construction of the ship, all my treenails and bolts will be functional, fastening the planks and wales to the ships hull for added and permanent adhesion. Copper proved to be too soft to seat all the way to the shell of the hull.

Bottom line, there is a slight difference in appearance, but at 22 gauge I'm not sure anyone will notice. I will be going for a slight weathed look and will treat, "mist", the bolts with a solution that will take the shine away and add a slight worn look.

Below, left to right: Yellow Brass, Red Brass, Copper. It is my understanding Red Brass is Yellow Brass, with a slightly higher Copper content.

All three will tarnish, but again for me the choice was weighted to either brass wire, due to my functional requirement. Had I been able to use the Copper wire, I definitely would do so, as I think you will be able to see a bit of difference when viewing the bolt application across the entire wale. I will be using Copper for the inside fasteners of all gun port lids.

Hope this helps!

thumbnail.jpg
 
Hoss6262 said:
Thank you all for the warm welcome back, taking the time to visit, and all the likes.

A small update. I started planking the hull, between first and second gun decks, only to realize I'm human and to be one is to err. :rolleyes: After planking the bottom three of four runs of planks, I realized that the gun port cutouts on the bottom plank were incorrect, as they accounted for the sills of the ports extending to the outer edge of the external planks. I decided not to follow this standard for cosmetic reasons. The result was that the cutout was vertically too large. So off it came, and I'm now in the process of reconfiguring.

So as we do, when we get stuck, we take a small step of testing the plank fasteners' appearance, treenails, and bolts. French 74s of the period typically had a combination of treenails and iron bolts, offset and alternated, below the waterline. I will not be following this standard, installing treenails only below the waterline.
,
Photos of some test samples are below. Plank and treenail tests have different combinations of treatments. Planks include sanding sealer, Tung Oil, Bitumen wash with white spirits, and Bitumen/bees wax. Treenails are all of the same pearwood as the planks, but have three different treatments, including 1) no treatment, 2) flat black paint, and 3) graphite treated low viscosity PA glue applied during installation.

View attachment 513691

Although the samples are all relatively close in appearance, there are some subtle differences. I've yet to decide which I prefer. Input is always welcome.

So we all know the importance of using GREEN mats. I think I've uncovered some false advertisement in marketing. Mine are supposed to be "self-healing". I'm waiting for the drill holes to heal themselves! ROTF :rolleyes:
View attachment 513704View attachment 513705For the Wales bolts, I wanted to use copper or something similar. The photo below shows half-hard square copper wire as well as half-hard square red brass wire. From the usual viewing distance, you really can't tell the difference. Under magnification, the differences are slight. The key difference is that, even though both are "half-hard," the red brass was noticeably harder and therefore easier to work with during installation. So the decision has been made.

Thanks for stopping by to visit.
Click to expand...
I also make samples, and soon I expect a new delivery of pears. And I again expect samples. I would like to see your results at a closer distance, so that the image quality does not distort the result. But thank you for sharing the result.
 
Thanks Ken - I saw your link to where you purchased the wire - I assume the wire you purchased was uncoated. If so Ill go ahead and purchase from the same source.
 
CLB said:
Thanks Ken - I saw your link to where you purchased the wire - I assume the wire you purchased was uncoated. If so Ill go ahead and purchase from the same source.
Click to expand...
NP Chris, Just to be clear, the site I linked, being a jewelry supply site sells both coated and uncoated wire. The coated wire will state it's coated on the label, the uncoated makes no mention at all. So read the product details to ensure you don't get an unwanted surprise later. ;) After posting, I did go back and cut off a small piece of all 3 of the wire samples and blackened them successfully, just for my own peace of mind.
 
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