Le Soleil Royal ZHL Build Log [COMPLETED BUILD]

Sasha, is a lufer the same as a deadeye? I watched a video of someone making a full-sized deadeye and and they had a metal form the same dimensions as the deadeye. They annealed the strop to soften it and gradually used a hammer to shape it against the steel form. Is that what you are suggesting?
 
Don’t the lanyards seem a bit long in the instructions picture? The first ratline would be at the height of four sailors standing end to end. View attachment 304596
Good morning Vic. They do look long- I would imagine they would be unmanageable at that length at full scale- there would be too much flex as well. I also shortened my Victory vs the instructions and went with what Ed (a scratch build I follow from Pinterest) did but merely used a point on the netting as a reference rather than try find a measurement- was 0.4mm shorter than plans. Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Vic. They do look long- I would imagine they would be unmanageable at that length at full scale- there would be too much flex as well. I also shortened my Victory vs the instructions and went with what Ed (a scratch build I follow from Pinterest) did but merely used a point on the netting as a reference rather than try find a measurement- was 0.4mm shorter than plans. Cheers Grant
Good grief! That’s less than the width of a second planking!
 
I found some black wire that I had for the strops. I pretty much used Donnie‘s method that he showed on YouTube, but this version uses both chains and plates. I formed them around a drill bit and wrapped them around the deadeyes. Then I twisted the wire, cut off the excess, and hooked on the chains. 2DC87AD0-60F5-4B20-9591-86F7B2B0C482.jpeg
 
I found some black wire that I had for the strops. I pretty much used Donnie‘s method that he showed on YouTube, but this version uses both chains and plates. I formed them around a drill bit and wrapped them around the deadeyes. Then I twisted the wire, cut off the excess, and hooked on the chains. View attachment 304822
You got those strops and chains spot on Vic.I hope your dead eyes can rotate. Although the method you used there shouldn’t be a problem. Well done Vic.
 
I read somewhere that the deadeyes should be 3 times the deadeye diameter apart. So for a 5mm deadeye there would be a 15mm space between them. 6mm would be 18mm etc. This was in some book about rigging. Don't know if it is correct for the real world. What I do know is it looks nice and it's visually about what you typically see in museums. It also makes it look nice is there are smaller and larger deadeyes.
 
I read somewhere that the deadeyes should be 3 times the deadeye diameter apart. So for a 5mm deadeye there would be a 15mm space between them. 6mm would be 18mm etc. This was in some book about rigging. Don't know if it is correct for the real world. What I do know is it looks nice and it's visually about what you typically see in museums. It also makes it look nice is there are smaller and larger deadeyes.
If that's the case, the supplied deadeyes are much too large. I'm kind of glad they're this size, though. Easier to work with! The smaller deadeyes are for the stays. Good to hear from you, Jodie! How is the train set coming along?
 
The train layout is forever a work in progress. I've been wiring 3 colored leds about the size of the Black Pearl ones. Have to solder 4 wires on each, I think that's about the limit of how small I can work with.

I would recommend you experiment a bit with the deadeye spacing I think the 3 times the diameter would be about right. Go ahead and lay five deadeyes in a line touching each other and remove the middle three that is the easy way to do it. I usually do that and then make my wire to set the spacing with the three deadeyes still there. The smaller ones for the stays should be closer together than the larger ones. I think this would put the smaller ones about even with the canon barrels, and the ratlines just above the middle section of the rail. Your ship is looking great.
 
I would consider that, Jodie, but I don’t think I have enough channel to accommodate that. Besides, the positions are already cut in the channels by laser. And the starboard side is done. Maybe one of these days I can do a scratch build when I get about $40,000 to buy the tools I need/want.

Soldering those 2mm LEDs would drive me crazy! Not only would I need a „third hand“ but a fourth one as well. Do you have pictures on this forum?
F4E8DCF5-32AF-4A49-91D4-35EE1ED46FC4.jpeg
 
I would consider that, Jodie, but I don’t think I have enough channel to accommodate that. Besides, the positions are already cut in the channels by laser. And the starboard side is done. Maybe one of these days I can do a scratch build when I get about $40,000 to buy the tools I need/want.
If I could, Vic, I believe Jodie is describing the vertical spacing between the deadeyes and not the horizontal. And I certainly agree with him - your ship is looking great!
 
Yea what Paul said. I think you misunderstood what I was talking about. In post 1282 above you mentioned the lanyards seemed too long. I definitely agree with you. I was talking about the length of the lanyards not the spacing along the channels. The lanyard length should be 3 times the diameter of the deadeye. like these below.

1650907690547.png
 
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