L'Orenoque Mamoli 1:100 scale

[The Gavel]

What ho, shipmates!

At last! Here it comes! Yes! Yes!! YES!!!!

You guessed it - guns by Jerry Todd - chartered armaments manufacturer to scale governments around the world. In this case, Napoleon III's France. I give you now, for the first time in this hemisphere - Paixhans canon-obusier of 80 No. 1 22 cm shell guns. Thank you for making your magic, Jerry!!!! Frankly, I don't know if I will ever be able to build another ship from this era without you !

Below a series of shots showing Jerry's IX Dahlgren and the Paixhans canon-obusier. Keep in mind the the Paixhans is 1:100 and the Dahlgren is 1:96. Aside from marvelling at the amazing detail Jerry put into these guns, it seems that the Paixhans was a very robust size gun.



Views of the guns placed



Now to get back to the crazy notion that I have any skill worth mentioning - some how, I managed to get the starboard forward port a full 1/8" off from its proper location. I didn't notice this until I placed guns in both forward ports Happily, its made of wood and can easily fixed. Also, becauseof the flairing of the muzzel on the Paixhans and their thickness at the business end, I needed to raise the height of every port 1/32" to get the guns to sit square. Glad I hadn't let my inner 8-year-old convince me to oil and paint yet.



Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

 

[BradNSW]

I've never seen a long "tube" below the seats of east for this period. However, it does give new meaning to the term "poop chute"!!!

in my limited knowledge, I though the box emptied straight down to the sea. Gravity negated the need for a messy chute or tube???

She's looking good and I look forward to seeing how you color/texture the cannons.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[The Gavel]

I've never seen a long "tube" below the seats of east for this period. However, it does give new meaning to the term "poop chute"!!!

in my limited knowledge, I though the box emptied straight down to the sea. Gravity negated the need for a messy chute or tube???

She's looking good and I look forward to seeing how you color/texture the cannons.

Thanks for sharing.

Brad! If you were the 1st Lieutenant of the ship and you were at anchor or sweating out the doldrums would you like it if gravity left all of the poop on the stem and bows

Thank's for the compliment, shipmate! I'm not sure about the color yet. Of course the tubes will be black, but I may take liberties with the carriages. Based on available data, mainly hitorical models or current models of this era in the French navy, particularly the models that have been shared in this thread, the livery inboard was white-light ochre inboard for the bulwarks, and "walls" with black for rails. This is pretty austere IMHO, almost like a tuxedo which is excellent in itself and elegant. But I usually wear a bright red flower (rose or carnation) as a boutonierre as just a little of my swagger. So, rather than painting the carriages dark wood color, which I think is accurate, I am thinking about a dark red or an olive green which, I think, may not be inaccurate. How's that for double-talk With any luck one of our shipmates will see this exchange and give me some much needed advice or direction.

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[The Gavel]

What ho, shipmates!

I finished the hard part of the head! Not perfect. But then, what is? I took great advantage from seeing the pics of Constellation that Jerry shared as well as his very very nice modelling of the complex curving of the planking covering the timbers between the main rail and the upper cheek.

Using L'Orenouqe's plans to determine wood dimensions, I made the main rails of 1/8" square stock and heat hent them just a bit to achieve a slight curve. The cheeks are 1/16" x 3/16". I decided to thin them once the Titebond II had dried over night - the additional width gave ne a better handle for placement. I heat bent these pieces as well. The timbers and planks are all 1/8" x 1/32" stock. I know the timbers would have been much stouter, but I couldn't get anything thicker to take the curves necessary to form the landing spots for the planks and at 1:100 scale it's a tight fit in there. Also, let's be honest, this construction will be covered with grating and will be painted black. I'm pretty happy how things came out!



The dotted line is the line of the lower cheek based on the plans - 1/16" in from the front of the stem.





Now you can see that I bad math I don't know how I managed to get the port side forward chase port wrong. But I managed it. I'm going to measure twice cut once a lot more going forward on this build.





Since the starboard side isn't the money shot for display purposes, I did my experimenting on that side. Here you see 2 of 3 timbers notched into the top of the main rail. The timber farthest aft that you can't see I notche into the bottom of the rail - I really can't explain that choice. I think that choice accounts for the gap between the aft end of the top plank and the main rail. On the port side, no pics, I notched all of the timbers into the top of the rail and had better luck with the gap.



Ta da!!!



Next placement of the grating - the kit part is nightmarishly thick - we'll see what happens with that. Then the upper head framing and planking and finally ornamentation. Maybe this all happens in the next couple of days!!!!!

Thank you for looking at this, commenting on it and mainly for contributing to it!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

 

[dockattner]

What ho, shipmates!

I finished the hard part of the head! Not perfect. But then, what is? I took great advantage from seeing the pics of Constellation that Jerry shared as well as his very very nice modelling of the complex curving of the planking covering the timbers between the main rail and the upper cheek.

Using L'Orenouqe's plans to determine wood dimensions, I made the main rails of 1/8" square stock and heat hent them just a bit to achieve a slight curve. The cheeks are 1/16" x 3/16". I decided to thin them once the Titebond II had dried over night - the additional width gave ne a better handle for placement. I heat bent these pieces as well. The timbers and planks are all 1/8" x 1/32" stock. I know the timbers would have been much stouter, but I couldn't get anything thicker to take the curves necessary to form the landing spots for the planks and at 1:100 scale it's a tight fit in there. Also, let's be honest, this construction will be covered with grating and will be painted black. I'm pretty happy how things came out!

View attachment 533945

The dotted line is the line of the lower cheek based on the plans - 1/16" in from the front of the stem.

View attachment 533946

View attachment 533944

Now you can see that I bad math I don't know how I managed to get the port side forward chase port wrong. But I managed it. I'm going to measure twice cut once a lot more going forward on this build.

View attachment 533943

View attachment 533948

Since the starboard side isn't the money shot for display purposes, I did my experimenting on that side. Here you see 2 of 3 timbers notched into the top of the main rail. The timber farthest aft that you can't see I notche into the bottom of the rail - I really can't explain that choice. I think that choice accounts for the gap between the aft end of the top plank and the main rail. On the port side, no pics, I notched all of the timbers into the top of the rail and had better luck with the gap.

View attachment 533949

Ta da!!!

View attachment 533947

Next placement of the grating - the kit part is nightmarishly thick - we'll see what happens with that. Then the upper head framing and planking and finally ornamentation. Maybe this all happens in the next couple of days!!!!!

Thank you for looking at this, commenting on it and mainly for contributing to it!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

This is lovely, precise work, Chuck! Way to go!

 

[GIG1810]

Hey Chuck,

I'm totally impressed. It looks very good and also very cleanly finished. I'm totally curious to see how it looks with the paddle wheel. I'll stay tuned to your build report. Simply great!

Greetings

Günther

 

[Peter Gutterman]

Hey Chuck,

I'm totally impressed. It looks very good and also very cleanly finished. I'm totally curious to see how it looks with the paddle wheel. I'll stay tuned to your build report. Simply great!

Greetings

Günther

Agreed!

 

[Peter Voogt]

What ho, shipmates!

I finished the hard part of the head! Not perfect. But then, what is? I took great advantage from seeing the pics of Constellation that Jerry shared as well as his very very nice modelling of the complex curving of the planking covering the timbers between the main rail and the upper cheek.

Using L'Orenouqe's plans to determine wood dimensions, I made the main rails of 1/8" square stock and heat hent them just a bit to achieve a slight curve. The cheeks are 1/16" x 3/16". I decided to thin them once the Titebond II had dried over night - the additional width gave ne a better handle for placement. I heat bent these pieces as well. The timbers and planks are all 1/8" x 1/32" stock. I know the timbers would have been much stouter, but I couldn't get anything thicker to take the curves necessary to form the landing spots for the planks and at 1:100 scale it's a tight fit in there. Also, let's be honest, this construction will be covered with grating and will be painted black. I'm pretty happy how things came out!

View attachment 533945

The dotted line is the line of the lower cheek based on the plans - 1/16" in from the front of the stem.

View attachment 533946

View attachment 533944

Now you can see that I bad math I don't know how I managed to get the port side forward chase port wrong. But I managed it. I'm going to measure twice cut once a lot more going forward on this build.

View attachment 533943

View attachment 533948

Since the starboard side isn't the money shot for display purposes, I did my experimenting on that side. Here you see 2 of 3 timbers notched into the top of the main rail. The timber farthest aft that you can't see I notche into the bottom of the rail - I really can't explain that choice. I think that choice accounts for the gap between the aft end of the top plank and the main rail. On the port side, no pics, I notched all of the timbers into the top of the rail and had better luck with the gap.

View attachment 533949

Ta da!!!

View attachment 533947

Next placement of the grating - the kit part is nightmarishly thick - we'll see what happens with that. Then the upper head framing and planking and finally ornamentation. Maybe this all happens in the next couple of days!!!!!

Thank you for looking at this, commenting on it and mainly for contributing to it!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

That looks very nice with all those curved parts, Chuck. Well done!
Regards, Peter

 

[Namabiiru]

Beautiful, Chuck!

 

[The Gavel]

This is lovely, precise work, Chuck! Way to go!

Paul! Humble thanks! I know how you think about precision.

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[The Gavel]

Hey Chuck,

I'm totally impressed. It looks very good and also very cleanly finished. I'm totally curious to see how it looks with the paddle wheel. I'll stay tuned to your build report. Simply great!

Greetings

Günther

Gunther!

Thank you, shipmate! I've seen your work, you know ! As far as clean finishing and detail go, I'm considering putting you on retainer!

I'm with you on the paddle wheels! I may, I say may, start on them this weekend. I need to get them done in order to make sure my design forr the wheel houses works out.

I really appreciate the support!

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[The Gavel]

Agreed!

Thank you, Pete!

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[The Gavel]

That looks very nice with all those curved parts, Chuck. Well done!
Regards, Peter

Peter! Thank you! As we all know, the curved parts are the hardest to achieve, but the best to admire

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[The Gavel]

Beautiful, Chuck!

Namabiiru! Thank you, sir!

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[GrantTyler]

Good afternoon Chuck. What they all say……you totally owned this. Cheers Grant

 

[The Gavel]

Good afternoon Chuck. What they all say……you totally owned this. Cheers Grant

Grant! Thank you, sir! Not hard to own when I have almost complete liberty to do what ever I want I'm still amazed at the lack of information about these ships - almost as amazing as the kit representing itself as historically accurate. I think, going forward, I will just make it how I want it and post that this is how it was on the real ship

BTW - hows the knee rehab? Following the instructions, for once?

Blessings.
Chuck

 

[Martin By Eye]

Looking very well built, Chuck, though i don't quite know why you bothered to buy the kit, especially as it's not one of the cheapest out there. You have the skills (and the contacts) to be scratch building whatever you wish !

 

[The Gavel]

Looking very well built, Chuck, though i don't quite know why you bothered to buy the kit, especially as it's not one of the cheapest out there. You have the skills (and the contacts) to be scratch building whatever you wish !

Martin! Much too kind, my dear sir! How's L'Aigle coming along?

You, know . . . Here's the answer - I thought the kit was a kit of an historical ship. I'm very trusting by nature. In future, I'll do more front end leg work - like researching the ship BEFORE buying the kit. I'm learning! Harriet Lane - research and discovering the plans 60% through the build. L'Orenoque - research and discovering the plans at the start of the build, but after buying the kit. Next? You know what comes next .

I'm not sure that I would have made a different choice knowing what I know now - the bones are there and they are mainly accurate. On top of that, I haven't accumulated the tools that make for an enjoyable scratch build. I mean tools in the universal sense - skill and knowledge in addition to Proxxon's entire inventory. (On the otherhand, I do have the monograph and plan sets for USS Susquehanna which after we finish our respective Franch sidewheelers we might tackle in tandem? Just a thought knowing of your interest in sidewheelers.) Besides, almost everyone adds substantially to the original price of a kit with all of the aftermarket goodies. But you are absolutely correct, as our shipmates Paul and Pete predicted, by the time I'm finished something like 80% - 90% of the kit will still be in the box.

I do plan to get on to Mamoli/Dusek. They could revise the kit to fit the plans of the ship - omit the luxurious selection of exoctic wood - base thier instructions on something more than guess work and probably reduce the costs of production. I'd wager that an overhaul of the kit would make them money in the near term. This ship is a very interesting one from a very instersting era that more people would probably go for it it was more of what it pretended to be.

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

 

[Peter Gutterman]

I too like having something with plans and a basic structure to build on. But experience is showing me that the amount of work and scratch building is only minimally reduced than if you just do the necessary research, acquire the best plans you can get and start from scratch. Beyond a bandsaw and a few other basic, mostly miniature, power tools and some good basic hand tools. you will probably do just as well with less hassle overall starting from scratch. Most of the wood you will need can be purchased in sizes milled pretty close to what you will require with a minimum of fuss. The resources for aftermarket parts and fittings are vast. If you've bashed enough kits, you already know the drill. And the trick to success is keeping control over your ambition. Good enough is a whole lot better and easier to achieve than putting your finished product beyond your grasp. Your model won't be judged by what isn't there. Only by what is.
Like buying a lottery ticket, starting with a kit will only marginally improve your chances of success.

Pete

 

[Martin By Eye]

Martin! Much too kind, my dear sir! How's L'Aigle coming along?

You, know . . . Here's the answer - I thought the kit was a kit of an historical ship. I'm very trusting by nature. In future, I'll do more front end leg work - like researching the ship BEFORE buying the kit. I'm learning! Harriet Lane - research and discovering the plans 60% through the build. L'Orenoque - research and discovering the plans at the start of the build, but after buying the kit. Next? You know what comes next .

I'm not sure that I would have made a different choice knowing what I know now - the bones are there and they are mainly accurate. On top of that, I haven't accumulated the tools that make for an enjoyable scratch build. I mean tools in the universal sense - skill and knowledge in addition to Proxxon's entire inventory. (On the otherhand, I do have the monograph and plan sets for USS Susquehanna which after we finish our respective Franch sidewheelers we might tackle in tandem? Just a thought knowing of your interest in sidewheelers.) Besides, almost everyone adds substantially to the original price of a kit with all of the aftermarket goodies. But you are absolutely correct, as our shipmates Paul and Pete predicted, by the time I'm finished something like 80% - 90% of the kit will still be in the box.

I do plan to get on to Mamoli/Dusek. They could revise the kit to fit the plans of the ship - omit the luxurious selection of exoctic wood - base thier instructions on something more than guess work and probably reduce the costs of production. I'd wager that an overhaul of the kit would make them money in the near term. This ship is a very interesting one from a very instersting era that more people would probably go for it it was more of what it pretended to be.

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck

I am thinking i will have to cut in some slots for the backstop of the windows/ false gunports on the L'Aigle , then i can plank the hull. Just bought up a stock of planks (3500!) and various fittings from a shop gone out of business so i'm going planking mad on all the skeleton hulls i have on my shelves !