Making the Ringbolts - an introduction to metalsmith works

Norway said:
Jim. Good explanation on this topic, I have such a gas burner as you show, I will try to do as you show on the video.
The solder paste you show, which brand it is, you have a link to where you buy this paste, can probably buy it locally,
but it would have been nice to see what types you can recommend, thanks-
Click to expand...
Hello Knut, This solder (silver soldering paste) can be purchased in the jewelry supply stores. Soldering paste comes at least in types: Hard, medium and easy. Start with 'easy' or extra flow... as you will gain more experience, you can buy medium or\and hard. It comes in a syringe (It does not fill all the way), it 1/4 oz only. Below is the site I bought mine.

www.fdjtool.com

SPSE05 = Silver Paste Solder Easy 1/4oz (5 dwt) Syringe by FDJtool

SPSE05 = Silver Paste Solder Easy 1/4oz (5 dwt) Syringe
www.fdjtool.com www.fdjtool.com

Happy soldering!
 
Brilliant tutorial Jim.I will give it a go.I have avoided metal work on models as I had worked with metals in my dayjob for nearly thirty years and my hobby is my escapeROTFBy rights,I should be best qualified but my models haven't displayed this.
Now I no longer get my hands dirty,I will put more effort into the shiny bits.

On a side note,I have soft soldering the brass railings down to a tee on my more modern RC vessels.I do this using a temperature controlled soldering station.The golden rule though,don't buy lead free soft solder,it is garbage and does not flow out properly.I learnt this the hard way.

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
The three types of the hard soldering paste give an opportunity to make more than one soldering at the same spot or very close to each other. In this case one has to start every time with the hardest type of solder paste or with the harder one if there are only two of them (I am using hard and medium types). This means that the first solder, made with the harder paste, will hold on without melting when the second soldering is done with the softer paste. But again, be cautious with the hard solder when using small diameter wires - the wire can burn away even before the paste melts. So if there is one joint only and the wires to be soldered are thin, use the soft solder.
Janos
 
NMBROOK said:
Brilliant tutorial Jim.I will give it a go.I have avoided metal work on models as I had worked with metals in my dayjob for nearly thirty years and my hobby is my escapeROTFBy rights,I should be best qualified but my models haven't displayed this.
Now I no longer get my hands dirty,I will put more effort into the shiny bits.
On a side note,I have soft soldering the brass railings down to a tee on my more modern RC vessels.I do this using a temperature controlled soldering station.The golden rule though,don't buy lead free soft solder,it is garbage and does not flow out properly.I learnt this the hard way.

Kind Regards
Nigel
Click to expand...
Much appreciated, Nigel and many thanks for your comments. Specifically from the person who deals with metalwork for 30 years. I have tried multiple times soldering with regular soldering Iron, but no avail. I will have to try more, what the heck... We are building complex wood joints and often times working with the small scale etc. I better trying more...
 
janos said:
The three types of the hard soldering paste give an opportunity to make more than one soldering at the same spot or very close to each other. In this case one has to start every time with the hardest type of solder paste or with the harder one if there are only two of them (I am using hard and medium types). This means that the first solder, made with the harder paste, will hold on without melting when the second soldering is done with the softer paste. But again, be cautious with the hard solder when using small diameter wires - the wire can burn away even before the paste melts. So if there is one joint only and the wires to be soldered are thin, use the soft solder.
Janos
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Exactly!!!! Thanks, Janos.
 
Jim
With soft soldering I have used Carr's solder.This is available in many temperatures.It is designed for building brass model Locomotives.These all melt at specific different temperatures hence the digitally regulated iron.You just set the temperature on the solder station to just above the solder's melting point.I also use a larger tip to transfer the heat as quickly as possible and remove the iron quickly.

Kind Regards

Nigel

P.S. The stuff I used to make was ever so slightly largerROTFI was coded to weld steel with MIG and MMA but some aspects of soldering are still a learning curveRedface

Kind Regards

Nigel
 
NMBROOK said:
Jim
With soft soldering I have used Carr's solder.This is available in many temperatures.It is designed for building brass model Locomotives.These all melt at specific different temperatures hence the digitally regulated iron.You just set the temperature on the solder station to just above the solder's melting point.I also use a larger tip to transfer the heat as quickly as possible and remove the iron quickly.

Kind Regards

Nigel

P.S. The stuff I used to make was ever so slightly largerROTFI was coded to weld steel with MIG and MMA but some aspects of soldering are still a learning curveRedface

Kind Regards

Nigel
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Aha now I understand why you build in 1:36, you can mig weld your eye bolts. :)

Great topic Jim
 
Jim, I'm going to buy from this site, as recommended, easy and medium.
I've created my own account there, but I'm having trouble registering country and city, I've sent questions to their support page.
I attach two pictures of these two products, is this what you think I should use.
spse05-silver-paste-solder-easy-1-4oz-5-dwt-syring.jpgspsm05-silver-paste-solder-medium-1-4oz-5-dwt-syri.jpg
 

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  • spsm05-silver-paste-solder-medium-1-4oz-5-dwt-syri.jpg
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Norway said:
Jim, I'm going to buy from this site, as recommended, easy and medium.
I've created my own account there, but I'm having trouble registering country and city, I've sent questions to their support page.
I attach two pictures of these two products, is this what you think I should use.
Click to expand...
I would like to save some of your Crones, for the future use. You really don't need both easy and medium soldering paste. You can really opt out 'medium' for later time. Just as @janos said in earlier post, and I have explained in my tutorial you will hardly need hard and medium for now.. The use of those only when you will solder three different parts on a really small surface (almost next to each one).
 
Jim I will do that, now I will first wait for the suport to fix my address, (my page) from Alberta Canada to Stavanger Norway.
Then I can order, BDW, solder paste that we are talking about here is over twice as expensive here.
 
This is probably a stupid question in reference that what was covered earlier.... I have a spool of brass wire that came with an AL kit that is so brittle I can barely work with it. Just heat up the whole spool until orange, with out melting it, and it should be more workable?
 
ken s said:
This is probably a stupid question in reference that what was covered earlier.... I have a spool of brass wire that came with an AL kit that is so brittle I can barely work with it. Just heat up the whole spool until orange, with out melting it, and it should be more workable?
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Hello Ken (@ken s ), I have never work with brittle brass as you describe. Brass is a binary alloy composed of copper and zinc that has been valued for its workability, hardness, corrosion resistance, and attractive appearance. The exact properties of different brass kind depend on the composition of the brass alloy, particularly the copper-zinc ratio. In general, however, all brass are valued for their machinability or the ease with which the metal can be formed into desired shapes and forms while retaining high strength.
I assume it is a different alloy of some other material. I would experiment on a small piece before heating the entire spool. Here the brass wire I use for a long time, and still.


IMG_1284.jpeg​
 
Jimsky, Thanks for the info. I'll try a small piece. Being one to never throw things out, sure a use for it will come along one day. I don't remember the exact use for in the model, just remember trying to bend it was very difficult and broke easily. Thank you.
 
Excellent tutorial Jim, very well ex[lained, now I have just got to get some of that paste and try it out,

best regards john,
 
Norway said:
Jim, I'm going to buy from this site, as recommended, easy and medium.
I've created my own account there, but I'm having trouble registering country and city, I've sent questions to their support page.
I attach two pictures of these two products, is this what you think I should use.
View attachment 137217View attachment 137218
Click to expand...

G'day Knut, let us know how you get on with the support, I tried to order but they didn't have Australia on the list,

best regards john,
 
Good morning, lacking knowledge of solder pastes I did a google journey. I started with FDJtool site as Jim recommended. Easy Paste offered there has 1240 deg. F melting point. It would cost me about $30 Canadian with shipping. I thought it i snot cheap and went on Amazon. I found that majority of cheap pastes there are with very low melting points of about 280 deg. F. Some of them are lead based, some not, some even claim to be extra strong because they had 1% of silver in them. I realized these pastes are used only for soldering electronics on boards and they do not make a solid bond. Jewelers require much stronger soldering bonds. They use silver based pastes with silver content around 60%. The more silver is in the paste the higher the melting point and stronger the bond. My thinking was that for our hobby purpose as we do mostly just a cosmetic soldering a 1240 deg F paste is a bit too strong and requires our parts to be significantly heated to do the job. I found this other paste with melting point of only 500 deg. F. It is claimed that it "...Provides strength without the distortion of high temperature brazing...". This sounds just right? What do you think guys? Ohh. Also I learned that all solder pastes have a shelf life of about 1 year so if we do not plan soldering within this time it is not a good idea to buy them in advance.

www.homedepot.com

SOLDER-IT Silver Bearing Solder Paste-SP-7 - The Home Depot

SOLDER-IT silver bearing solder paste in easy to use, no mess, no waste syringe. Soldering made easy - the skill is in the paste. Made from premium refined powdered metals. Ready to use - Flux is blended
www.homedepot.com
 
Y.T. said:
Good morning, lacking knowledge of solder pastes I did a google journey. I started with FDJtool site as Jim recommended. Easy Paste offered there has 1240 deg. F melting point. It would cost me about $30 Canadian with shipping. I thought it i snot cheap and went on Amazon. I found that majority of cheap pastes there are with very low melting points of about 280 deg. F. Some of them are lead based, some not, some even claim to be extra strong because they had 1% of silver in them. I realized these pastes are used only for soldering electronics on boards and they do not make a solid bond. Jewelers require much stronger soldering bonds. They use silver based pastes with silver content around 60%. The more silver is in the paste the higher the melting point and stronger the bond. My thinking was that for our hobby purpose as we do mostly just a cosmetic soldering a 1240 deg F paste is a bit too strong and requires our parts to be significantly heated to do the job. I found this other paste with melting point of only 500 deg. F. It is claimed that it "...Provides strength without the distortion of high temperature brazing...". This sounds just right? What do you think guys? Ohh. Also I learned that all solder pastes have a shelf life of about 1 year so if we do not plan soldering within this time it is not a good idea to buy them in advance.
Click to expand...
Hello Y.T. I have this soldering paste..., it doesn't work with soldering torch. It is burn out before melt. My big guess, it is designed for regular iron soldering and might work just fine. However, if you are planning to use propane soldering torch, this solder is not good.
Silver soldering paste can be bought in jewelry stores. You may have a better deal buying in stores rather than buying online. But you are correct, it is not cheap. However, with the amount you will need, it should last you for many soldering projects ahead.
 
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