Да. Вы фрезеровали их пакетом, а затем разрезали на элементы.
Yes. You milled them in a batch and then cut them into pieces.
Yes. You milled them in a batch and then cut them into pieces.
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Making trucks for your cannon carriages
- Thread starter Jimsky
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- cannon truck wheels
В упаковке фреза стояла под углом 90 градусов. Затем щеки устанавливаются под углом к центральной оси. А в том месте, где установлена ось колеса, уже не 90 градусов. Красная стрелка отмечена
In the package, the cutter was at a 90 degree angle. Then the cheeks are set at an angle to the central axis. And in the place where the wheel axle is installed, it is no longer 90 degrees. Red arrow marked
In the package, the cutter was at a 90 degree angle. Then the cheeks are set at an angle to the central axis. And in the place where the wheel axle is installed, it is no longer 90 degrees. Red arrow marked
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Абсолютно точно, Для изготовления приспособления для фрезеровки под нужным углом, использовался шаблон из чертежа
Absolutely, To make a device for milling at the desired angle, a template from the drawing was used
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Oh, sori. I missed this moment
В местах пропила под оси (в щеках) не может быть 90 градусов, так как пакет был выставлен под углом и заготовка фрезеровалась под углом. Как то так!!
There cannot be 90 degrees in the places where it was cut under the axis (in the cheeks), since the package was set at an angle and the workpiece was milled at an angle. Something like this!!
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I get it, Jim
Here you milled them in a package. And then the cheeks themselves were milled again?
Not being able to read/understand Russian I am not able to follow the commentary above. However I would think that the splay of the carriage sides depends totally upon the proportions/diameters of the specific cannon barrel which even for the same poundage had variation depending upon where the casting was made. I think that we typically simplify this into a more regular set of dimensions. This is a very good approach to mass production though demanding upon precise machining in preparation of the long stock lengths. Well presented. Rich (PT-2)
No, Aleksander. They were milled once. This perspective view doesn't give a good view. Here is another, better view. Between left and right blocks *in the middle ) wooden template see arrows.
here is another photo
You are correct, Rich. This is exactly a discussion about... and you said you don understand Russian?
When milling the stock, it is imperative to set the angle for right and left blocks. I explained to Aleksandr that the angle was determined according to the template, cut out from the printed plans.
Hi Jim, see you numbered your carriage, DE 6.
Is this your own interpretation.
I know on war ships of the 17th century guns did not really belonged to one single vessel but vessels were armed when prepared for battle.
This meant they had different kind of gun barrels needing different loads of gunpowder from time to time depending on what was available at the time in the armery. For this they needed references which were marked on the gun and on the cartridges meant for the gun. These references are they marked on the gun carriage? So far I wasn't able to trace this properly, but these are the details we want in our models
Guess on Alert build end of the 18th century this was more standardized already.
Is this your own interpretation.
I know on war ships of the 17th century guns did not really belonged to one single vessel but vessels were armed when prepared for battle.
This meant they had different kind of gun barrels needing different loads of gunpowder from time to time depending on what was available at the time in the armery. For this they needed references which were marked on the gun and on the cartridges meant for the gun. These references are they marked on the gun carriage? So far I wasn't able to trace this properly, but these are the details we want in our models
Guess on Alert build end of the 18th century this was more standardized already.
Yes, Mon Amie. It is more of my interpretation for Alert, but it is historically accurate as it represents the cartridge tonnages' for a specific barrel weight. Here, it is a DE 6. for 6 pounder barrel (I think). I just wanted to experiment with my new chisel set from Mihail Kirsanov.
You are absolutely correct, they didn't use this labeling on later 18th-century ships. They didn't use it on Alert for sure. Also, on the Alert, they used 4 and 6 pounder barrels. They were fitted on the same type of carriage.
OK so if I understand correctly, you cut the sides of the wooden blocks for the carriage cheeks at the appropriate angle?
But in this picture You are using the crosscut guide to slice them off:
It is hard to see in the picture but I suppose You set it to 80 degrees?!
Anyway, Thanks for this tutorial. These problemsolving techniques are what makes this hobby so interesting.
But in this picture You are using the crosscut guide to slice them off:
It is hard to see in the picture but I suppose You set it to 80 degrees?!
Anyway, Thanks for this tutorial. These problemsolving techniques are what makes this hobby so interesting.
That is correct, Dan! I use the fence to set the desired thickness of 2.mm (in my case), but I set the miter gauge with the angle. The same angle I use to mill the wood stocks (left and right). Here is the view from the top. It should make better sense now.
You have presented a very clear practicum on these carriages. The book The Art of Ship Modeling, Bernard Frolich, ANCRE 2002, Chapter IV Artillery, pp 134 - 154, after the preceding pages on casting of barrels, focuses on Carriages and making them, pp 147 - 49, followed by their installation. If you have or get a copy it is a "go to" for all aspects of model building. Just an idea. . . Rich
Спасибо, Джим. Теперь загадка завершена
Недурно
Thanks, Rich. I am the proud owner of this book, and it is my primer for most of my work! If you want to learn something, you better do it from wise guys!
Спасибо Александр, можно просто, Дима.Спасибо, Джим. Теперь загадка завершена
OK. You can call me Sasha
I am going to follow his recommendations on sail making for my BN and not fold the fabric over taking it out of scale. My hesitancy is in how to stabilize the fabric to accurately draw the sewing lines without fouling the sewing machine. . . open dock for recommendations on this one. RichThanks, Rich. I am the proud owner of this book, and it is my primer for most of my work! If you want to learn something, you better do it from wise guys!