I would love to provide some insight but absolutely has no experience with sailmaking. But if you post your question in the help section, many folks will chime in for sure.
Making trucks for your cannon carriages
- Thread starter Jimsky
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- cannon truck wheels
I am a newbee here (NOS because somehow aged) and this is my first attempt (in this forum) to attach a file :
This concerns the exact historical dimensions of carriages for (French) naval guns from 1632 => to 1732.
I hope it works (in a first step) and I hope it helps (provided that first step is OK) !
This concerns the exact historical dimensions of carriages for (French) naval guns from 1632 => to 1732.
I hope it works (in a first step) and I hope it helps (provided that first step is OK) !
Please let us know the source book that you used for these as well as in the future, noting the copy is for educational purposes to work with copyrights. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
Hey, Rich. The book by Wolfram zu Mondfeld: Schiffsgeschütze, 1350 bis 1870 (German Edition)
Amazon.com: Schiffsgeschütze, 1350 bis 1870 (German Edition): 9783782204477: Mondfeld, Wolfram zu: Books
Amazon.com: Schiffsgeschütze, 1350 bis 1870 (German Edition): 9783782204477: Mondfeld, Wolfram zu: Books
www.amazon.com
A lot of detail and information in that one. . . particularly if the reader is fluent in German. In any event the data and illustrations are well detailed. I'll have to keep a note of it for potential future resources expansion $$$$ ;-) Rich
Usually this book from Mondfeld is offered for arround 50 Euros - the shown amazon price is much too high
www.booklooker.de
„Schiffsgeschütze 1350 bis 1870 Band I“ – Bücher gebraucht, antiquarisch & neu kaufen
Schiffsgeschütze 1350 bis 1870 Band I – Bücher gebraucht, antiquarisch & neu kaufen ✓ Preisvergleich ✓ Käuferschutz ✓ Wir ♥ Bücher!
Many thanks to all for 'likes' and comments. Today, I want to show how to turn your drill stand into a ........................mini-lathe.
Well..., it is not a real lathe not even close, but it is precise and can turn small parts. In this example, I am turning trucks for cannon carriages. This setup consists of a Proxxon drill stand with a rotating head, rotary tool, coordinates (X & Y) table, and Proxxon mini vise. As a turning tool, I use one of my turning chisels (tight in the vise).
I made a few videos to depict the turning process.
Hope you like it! Have a nice weekend!
Well..., it is not a real lathe not even close, but it is precise and can turn small parts. In this example, I am turning trucks for cannon carriages. This setup consists of a Proxxon drill stand with a rotating head, rotary tool, coordinates (X & Y) table, and Proxxon mini vise. As a turning tool, I use one of my turning chisels (tight in the vise).
I made a few videos to depict the turning process.
Hope you like it! Have a nice weekend!
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Dear Jim,
thank you for the demonstration of your mini-drill construction from Proxxon, it likes very handy. A little question: does the workpiece have to have a certain hole so that it fits tightly? And another question: must the whole construction be fixed on the wooden table? (I hope I have expressed myself clearly enough).
Best regards
Fritz
thank you for the demonstration of your mini-drill construction from Proxxon, it likes very handy. A little question: does the workpiece have to have a certain hole so that it fits tightly? And another question: must the whole construction be fixed on the wooden table? (I hope I have expressed myself clearly enough).
Best regards
Fritz
Many thanks, Fritz. If I correctly understand your first question, the workpiece is a standard mandrel used for rotary tools. However, the hole in the trucks has its own diameter (depending on the scale and drafts for your ship). I made so-called 'spacers' so it fits tightly in the wheel hole. The spacer is a bit shorter than the wheel blanks. When you tighten the assembly it holds it very snapped. Those 'spacers' made of tubing suitable diameters, you may just need to sand it so it will fit. Check both images to have an idea.
Here you can see brass spacer (red circled)
For the second question, I keep the construction on the table and clamp temporarily using a large throat-opening clamp from Wolfcraft, similar to the one below
Hope I understand your questions correctly, if not please let me know, I would like to help
Here you can see brass spacer (red circled)
For the second question, I keep the construction on the table and clamp temporarily using a large throat-opening clamp from Wolfcraft, similar to the one below
Hope I understand your questions correctly, if not please let me know, I would like to help
This is an excellent idea! Thank you very much.
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Thanks, Jim, for the detailed explanation, now I understood the principle - a very good idea for small wooden parts!
Best regards
Fritz
Best regards
Fritz
I was informed by my naval historian/writer that these weapons were called differently depending upon who it was:
Land based weapons - artillery (Napoleons' armies with field artillery "over hill, over dale etc. . . )
Land based on a fort bastion - cannons
Ancient derivation from, and used by: Arabic and Spanish and French - cannons is commonly used by writers as it is easy to understand but most often not accurately used.
Naval ship's armaments - guns (British rated Men of War ships)
Always learning something new a every turn and tack. Rich (PT-2)
Thanks Jimsky, I have the IBS/E and I have been debating whether to get the drill stand and X-Y table or just get the MF-70 - ideally it would be nice to have both as the mill won’t do the process you just showed… definately gonna need something for the POF kits I have waiting, deck framing, beam notches, etc. but cannon carriages are always a weak point in kits - those trucks look great, do you make your own axles too? I would like to see one of your completed, hopped up carriages too!
Thank you, Lou! Yes, I do build axles as well, I have completed carriages built from scratch. Below are the images of the completed carriages alone with barrels (barrels supplied in the kit), In my build log of Alert, I have shown the method I build a completed gun (except the barrels).
Thanks again, Lou. Yes, it is Pearwood, one of the best species of wood I love to use. I called them Magical Trio: Boxwood, Pearwood, and Black Hornbeam or Ebony.
I like to defend the kit supplying carriages, they are of very good quality and produce nice guns. I mean you don't have to add anything. After assembly, they look really good and perfect scale.
Those are parts that come with the kit, They are CNC cut (except the tracks and bed) and will require some cleaning.
Those the same parts after cleaning and trucks (wheels) are modified
...and here you have it a complete gun from the kit (I have added all rings and bolts, and slight modification on the second photo cannon on the right)
Years ago the Booth I used to set up at the Auto Show was pear wood, when the materials were scrapped after the next design I didn’t take any, I was taking the Sapelly, I wish I would have grabbed some pear wood.
the Constructo kit I’m doing is so bad I had to re make a lot of the pcs ( sapelly) glad I stocked up.
the Constructo kit I’m doing is so bad I had to re make a lot of the pcs ( sapelly) glad I stocked up.
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