Matthew 1497 1:48 scale by Mike 41

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Fascinating blog but I got lost at "Making my own drawings for a scratch build" I'm still on kits by numbers - All birthdays should be happy so Have an enjoyable relaxing one.
 

Mike41

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It has been a couple of months since I posted anything on the Matthew, but it did not die on the vine.

Daves and I have been with the other staff members on how the model should be built and options as to the finished state of the model.

Dave has devised a procedure to build and install the frames in blocks of four, it is working well. He has spent most of his time in the last two months finishing the Tecumseth and is just getting started on the frames.

The model uses full frames only no cant or half frames. The timbering package includes laser cut parts for the keel assembly and frames. I started with the keel, it was easy to clean up the laser char and assemble.

This is the progress photos.

IMG_3800.jpgIMG_3803.jpgIMG_3805.jpgIMG_3808.jpgIMG_3809.jpgIMG_3811.jpg
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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greetings fellow model builders
now that the Tecumseth is finished i began protoype work on the Matthew hull. This is a framing style i have never done before so it is an interesting project. The success of this build is knowing when to scrap it and start again and both Mike and I have hit the delete and started over a number of times working out all the bugs in the system and making all the possible mistakes so you don't have to.
 

Mike41

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Instead of having two separate build logs for the Matthew Project Dave and I decided to combine all the building information into this build log to make finding things easier.
 

Mike41

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Bow Framing:

The framing at the bow is very narrow so instead of using hawse pieces I used blocks on the sides of the apron attached to frame U as shown in the following photos.IMG_3818.jpgIMG_3819.jpgIMG_3820 (1).jpgIMG_3823.jpgIMG_3824_Moment.jpgIMG_3825.jpgIMG_3827.jpgIMG_3829.jpgIMG_3830.jpgIMG_3833 (1).jpgIMG_3834.jpgIMG_3835 (1)_Moment.jpg
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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Mike and i teamed up to do build projects and here is our first one the Matthew
once the build is finished this build log will be edited and presented as the final everything you will need to know to build the Matthew.
The log may seem a little didjointed at times as Mike and I weave the two builds into one build log.
We appreciate your questions and in put and ideas which we will use in the final polished up build log.
As you can see Mike has started with the bow timbers and i will start midship and see how the module build system will work.
We have kept in mind the first time plank on frame builder and designed the project to be built by anyone,

in the past builders have commented just do a kit or build project, whats the hold up? well you will see the trials and problems and errors along the way and why something like this takes time.

Starting with the frame drawing it is clear to see it is not the average frame space frame type of construction. This is the older style that was most likely used to built the Matthew. With this system all the frames touch one another by lapping the first futtock and the floor and the second futtock laps the first and so on.

Frame Disposition.png

this is a 3D image of the framing

frameshape1B.jpg
 
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Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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I began my build with making a little keel jig

keel stand3.jpg

make sure you are square to the base surface front to back

keel stand1.jpg
and side to side
keel stand2.jpg
yes those are carronade mounts from the Tecumseth build that were done wrong so now they are part of a keel stand for the Matthew
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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starting with block #6 which are frames 0 to 3 when you look at the framing drawing the blocks are numbered oddly block 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 1, 10
i don't know why but it does not matter.

anyhow

to do block 6 i printed out the frame drawing 0 or MS (midship) then using foam board i placed pins along the outer edge.

A1.jpg

The pins are used as guides to locate the frame parts. I need the exact shape of frame 0 because the other frames in the block will be stacked on top of it.

A2.jpg
A3.jpg
 
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Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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once frame 0 is assembled i will stack frame 1 on top of frame 0, this is where the handy dandy keel post come into use. The yellow tinted parts are frame 1 and they are set in place by lining up the edges with frame 0.

B1.jpgB2.jpg

the floor of frame 0 notch is in the keel stand so now place the notch for floor of frame one on the keel stand.

B3.jpg

building the frame blocks it just a matter of stacking frame parts by lining up the edges and placing the floor notch in the keel stand.

C1.jpgC2.jpg

by just stacking frame parts you can get very close to an accurate stack of frames

C4.jpg


counting back to frame part 5 you can see it is sitting slightly high. You are looking at micro photography you can tell by how clear the wood grain is showing. So that difference is so, so small it will not make a difference in the over all building process.

C3.jpg
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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oh no!
now we can play wack a problem because after the first block was built a problem popped up.

lets take a break here and look at the numbers, measuring the hull framing drawing i know ALL the frames once put together have to come out to 14 1/2 inches if they don't the framing will not fit on the keel. Each frame part has to be 3/16 .187 no more no less. In the frame block we have 8 frame pieces touching one another. The total size of all the frame blocks have to be 1 1/2 total or to be exact 1.496
taking a measure yup! that's a problem the block is to big by .066
if i kept going i will have way more frames than keel.

C5.jpg
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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Mike and i are keeping in mind the first time plank on frame builder and builders who do not have tools like a thickness sander. A quick fix to frame blocks that are too big is a simple sheet of sand paper, rubber cement, a piece of plate glass and some masking tape.

using 80 grit it took just a coule passes on both sides to bring the block down to the 1 1/2 inch mark.
Hey! why not just thickness sand the sheets to the correct thickness before they are laser cut?
good question

C6.jpg
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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i got to say working with Mike41 it is an inspiration. I lost count how many times these plans were drawn and redrawn again and again
the piles of research material we both worked through. Mike might be on his 2nd or 3rd version of the model. i didn't get past 4 frames and had to start over.

Mike has the patience of a saint

An immense and unyielding degree of patience, especially in the face of problems or difficulty. This field of work requires the patience of a saint, so if you're looking for immediate results, you're in the wrong place.

my favorite part of building these ships is in the design and engineering how is it done? in my signature style of building up to but not the final finish.
I will leave that up to someone else to take it over the finish line.


talk about inspiration i saw it coming a mile away when the first kits came out of China. These designers and model engineers are the best in the business and have a firm grasp on the tech end. The 3D modeling and printing, laser cutting, and CNC milling, just look at the blocks Dry Dock models have they are the best quality in the world. I am thinking hum? shun the computation? ban them? for the sake of heaven and earth why do that ? these guys are good, real good at what they do i see an opportunity so welcome to the hobby! and show me what you got. Seems there are 10,000 others of a like mind. Taking the hobby to the next level.

.
 

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard)

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oh no!
now we can play wack a problem because after the first block was built a problem popped up.

lets take a break here and look at the numbers, measuring the hull framing drawing i know ALL the frames once put together have to come out to 14 1/2 inches if they don't the framing will not fit on the keel. Each frame part has to be 3/16 .187 no more no less. In the frame block we have 8 frame pieces touching one another. The total size of all the frame blocks have to be 1 1/2 total or to be exact 1.496
taking a measure yup! that's a problem the block is to big by .066
if i kept going i will have way more frames than keel.

View attachment 315774


why not just sand the sheets to .187 and be done with it?


well here is the reason the machine has a +or- of .007 this is not a Bridgeport mill where you can dial in .002 thousandths. it is hit or miss by .007

when i measured the sheets they averaged .192 to .196 that is very close to the target of .187 for the machine. There is a limit to the accuracy of the machine so it can get close but the hand of man has to refine it to the finish.
so i built the next block to see if i can hit .187
 
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NOW THIS ONE IS FOR ME I LIKE IT A LOT, AND I LOVE THE TWO GREAT MODELERS WORKING TOGETHER IN TANDUM WITH THIS MARVOLOUS TECH, AS BEFPORE NOT INTERESTED OR UNDERSTANDING THE HOW BUT TO SEE IT WORK IN REAL TIME THIS HAS WHAT I AM LOOKING FOR A TIME PERIOD THAT IS NEW AND IMPORTANT TO THE HOBBY AND A NEW METHOD OF PUTTING IT TOGETHER AND YES DAVE MIKE IS A GEM AND A GENUIS AT DOING THIS THANKS MIKE. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
 

Mike41

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Thanks Dave and Don, Saint Michael has a nice ring to it but is way over the top for an old guy that likes to build boats lol.

Bow Framing continue:

One of my favorite tools is the Panavise I use it along with my gantry jig for all framing, it gives you access to all parts of the frames especially the interior for shaping and sanding. I am also a big fan of rubber bands and mini clamps. This set of photos shows the installation of the next four frames.

nIMG_3905.jpgIMG_3906.jpgIMG_3914.jpgIMG_3915.jpgIMG_3916.jpgIMG_3917.jpg
 
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