"Mayflower" Yuanqing models

[AlexSkripko]

After sanding and oiling, only dark stripes will be visible.

 

[Heinrich]

When I read the comments and the misinformation represented by members about YuanQing I cringe.

@mick : YuanQing is not ZHL. YuanQing is a reputable Chinese Model Manufacturing Company who manufactures kits; ZHL is a retailer who sells models manufactured by Chinese manufacturers like YuanQing, Luhaiqingkong, Unicorn, ShiCheng and CAF to name a few.

@Ted Robinson : Please see my answer above.

See below the group Build of the YuanQing Bluenose which has been built by more than 60 SOS members.

As far as the so-called "piracy" issue is concerned, I will let @Jimsky address that. He has a special and polite way of doing that - I am far too direct!

 

[Jimsky]

As far as the so-called "piracy" issue is concerned, I will let @Jimsky address that. He has a special and polite way of doing that - I am far too direct!

Concerning the “piracy” issue, this isn’t something we have authority over, nor is it our field of expertise. Before "tagging' someone with 'piracy, it’s best left to those who truly know the subject. I’d rather see the discussion return to modeling, where we can all contribute meaningfully.

 

[AlexSkripko]

I'm building the upper deck. I'm studying the instructions several steps ahead. They recommend installing gunports on the lower deck. There are no guns included. Question: Was the ship armed? If not, why cut gunports? They are covered with covers. If the ship was armed, I should probably buy 17th-century guns and install them on the lower deck. This needs to be done now. After the hull is planked, this will be impossible. The anatomy of the ship "Susan Constant 1605" lists eight guns. These are similar ships in historical period and design.

 

[AlexSkripko]

This is how it turned out. I don't like it. I'll have to redo it.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

This is how it turned out. I don't like it. I'll have to redo it.

View attachment 569084

View attachment 569085

This appears quite salvageable. Don't sand in a cross-grain direction. Sanding those cross-scratches out will be some work. I suggest you use a razor scraper to scrape the deck until those scratches are removed. Take your time and scrape in slow, even, overlapping strokes. Scraping the deck smooths it and evens out any offset planking seams. It will look BETTER than sanded. Use sanding sticks to get close to the bulwarks and in corners and always sand along the grain (fore-aft). After that, finish the deck with oil or varnish and you're good.

Use this: $12 on Amazon.com

 

[AlexSkripko]

It's not actually sanded yet. I use a regular metal straightedge for sanding. I just don't like the deck. Thanks for the advice. I'll be looking for such a device.

 

[AlexSkripko]

I don't like the place where the deck and bulkhead meet. There shouldn't be a gap there. Maybe I should install a baseboard? Was that what they used to have on ships?

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Mayflower II has a baseboard, so it would not be out of place for you to put a narrow strip there on your model. It will cover any gaps you have at the ends of the plank strips.

 

[AlexSkripko]

China! Sometimes it's just amazing. Isn't it really possible to cut the plank 100 mm longer? The shipping box is big enough. I showed you a photo earlier. It's all the way to the transom. And the instructions show the entire plank.

 

[AlexSkripko]

Not very funny. I think the chamfer worked. I haven't decided on the gun ports yet. I'll probably do it myself. The kit is quite complex. A lot is unclear. I compared the plans with galleon plans from the internet. The Chinese made the kit, as I wrote above, "Made from scratch." We'll give it a try!!!

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Real wales and planks are scarf jointed anyway, so the seam on your model is actually accurate. I see that the joint on your model is in the very worst place, where the plank is making a sharp curve. Typically you want the plank at the curve of the bow to be a solid piece with no joints because of the difficulty of maintaining the proper curve, with no hard bend or a flat spot.

 

[AlexSkripko]

There's actually no seam on the bow. It's in the stern.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I thought this diagonal line on the plank was the seam.

 

[AlexSkripko]

I have a friend. He assembled a model from "MarisStella (Croatia)". These models are more like blanks. You have to think a lot. He spent about two years making this model. Our model is very similar. The drawings are of very poor quality. I requested them by email. I decided to make the base for the gun ports according to the instructions. I asked about this above. How does it turn out? See the photo. It doesn't look anything like the instructions. I'll have to saw it. I didn't use the 3x4 planks from the kit. I had some 1.5x4.5 planks from "Oссre" left over. I glued them together. The size turned out a little larger.

 

[AlexSkripko]

Any advice? Maybe I shouldn't make these bases and cut the gun ports in the rough skin?

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Any advice? Maybe I shouldn't make these bases and cut the gun ports in the rough skin?

 

[AlexSkripko]

I don't understand the purpose of this design at all. None of the authors (Hoving, Laveri) have it. It's in the drawing from the kit. If this is historically accurate, it should be done. But this detail won't be visible on the model. Maybe we can do it this way? And it would be easier to correctly set the distance between the gun ports. That's strange. They differ in the drawing. The documents provide precise data between the gun ports depending on the gun caliber. They should be the same.

 

[AlexSkripko]

As we say here, "Without 100 grams of vodka, you won't understand." I'll go have a drink.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I don't understand the purpose of this design at all. None of the authors (Hoving, Laveri) have it. It's in the drawing from the kit. If this is historically accurate, it should be done. But this detail won't be visible on the model. Maybe we can do it this way? And it would be easier to correctly set the distance between the gun ports. That's strange. They differ in the drawing. The documents provide precise data between the gun ports depending on the gun caliber. They should be the same.

View attachment 569558

View attachment 569559

The wood used to frame the gun ports on your model does two things. 1) It makes the hull appear thicker on the model, because you will not be making the interior planking. 2) It supports the ends of the outer planks around the hole of each gun port.