I really like those aircraft kits with all components showing, and enjoy watching you guys assemble them on this site. Perhaps some day I will try one myself.
Jim
Jim
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Here is a small update - as you know, I was able to find all the screws and hardware from the plastic container that opened. However, I still am not able to locate the remaining 3 springs. So, the springs are for the valve seats. I think the springs were just a miscount from the factory.
I decided to wrap my own springs and if I am successful, I will wrap all 24 so that there will be consistency in the material I am using which is stainless steel. The kit springs are some type of shiny material - not sure. But they will be replaced anyway.
Therefore, this is the progress so far. I ordered some stainless steel spring wire from Amazon and it arrived the other day - the price is excellent considering what I am getting. The spring wire comes all the way down to .2mm - and it is truly as fine as human hair. I might have to go up to .3mm
This is the link to the product.
I did some research to see if there was an Equation to determine the mandrel diameter to wrap a spring GIVEN the Spring Diameter and the thickness of the wire you are using. Interesting, I did in fact find such a formula from a Google Search- but I have not tried this yet. So, if you wish to use this - you are welcome.
So, this is how the Equation works and I am going to plug in my own Spring Details. My Spring final diameter needs to be 3mm and the thickness of the wire in this case, I will use .25mm. The equation will have real-life values plugged in, but for now, let's see what happens.
Solve for a Spring Diameter of 3mm and a Stainless Steel Wire thickness is .25mm
Equation:
Dm= kD - d
where:
Dm is the diameter of the mandrel,
k is the diameter coefficient,
D is the final diameter of the spring, measured from the center of the wire (not the outer or the inner spring diameter).
d is the diameter of the wire.
The value of “X” is not listed, but first, we have to determine the Spring index to plug this into the formula:
X = D/d
Therefore 3mm / .25 mm = 12
Spring Index value “X” = 12
Next, determine the diameter coefficient of “k”
k = -0.01245 (x) + 0.98425
k= (-0.01245 x 12) + 0.98425
k = -.1494 + 0.98425
k = 0.83485
Lastly, we can find the diameter of the spring (Dm or the Diameter of the Mandrel we need)
Dm = kD – d
Dm = (0.83485 x 3mm) - .25mm
Dm = 2.50455 - .25
The diameter of the Mandrel will be 2.25mm
I have not made this Spring as of this post so far. When I do, I will report the results and see how accurate this equation is.
I decided to wrap my own springs and if I am successful, I will wrap all 24 so that there will be consistency in the material I am using which is stainless steel. The kit springs are some type of shiny material - not sure. But they will be replaced anyway.
Therefore, this is the progress so far. I ordered some stainless steel spring wire from Amazon and it arrived the other day - the price is excellent considering what I am getting. The spring wire comes all the way down to .2mm - and it is truly as fine as human hair. I might have to go up to .3mm
This is the link to the product.
I did some research to see if there was an Equation to determine the mandrel diameter to wrap a spring GIVEN the Spring Diameter and the thickness of the wire you are using. Interesting, I did in fact find such a formula from a Google Search- but I have not tried this yet. So, if you wish to use this - you are welcome.
So, this is how the Equation works and I am going to plug in my own Spring Details. My Spring final diameter needs to be 3mm and the thickness of the wire in this case, I will use .25mm. The equation will have real-life values plugged in, but for now, let's see what happens.
Solve for a Spring Diameter of 3mm and a Stainless Steel Wire thickness is .25mm
Equation:
Dm= kD - d
where:
Dm is the diameter of the mandrel,
k is the diameter coefficient,
D is the final diameter of the spring, measured from the center of the wire (not the outer or the inner spring diameter).
d is the diameter of the wire.
The value of “X” is not listed, but first, we have to determine the Spring index to plug this into the formula:
X = D/d
Therefore 3mm / .25 mm = 12
Spring Index value “X” = 12
Next, determine the diameter coefficient of “k”
k = -0.01245 (x) + 0.98425
k= (-0.01245 x 12) + 0.98425
k = -.1494 + 0.98425
k = 0.83485
Lastly, we can find the diameter of the spring (Dm or the Diameter of the Mandrel we need)
Dm = kD – d
Dm = (0.83485 x 3mm) - .25mm
Dm = 2.50455 - .25
The diameter of the Mandrel will be 2.25mm
I have not made this Spring as of this post so far. When I do, I will report the results and see how accurate this equation is.
So much for the math lesson. This is an example from the manual on how to build up the Wing Ribs. A simple jig is constructed so that the 1/32 x 3/32 Rib CAPS will be CENTERED on the Ribs. The thickness of the Ribs are 1/32" - therefore the jig will allow for 1/32" overhang on each side of the rib.
View from the side
View from the side
So, I got a little ambitious and I decided to create a spreadsheet that will automatically calculate the final diameter of the Mandrel or Drill Rod you will use to make the spring. The length is up to you. This only calculates the spring's final diameter based on the diameter and the wire size.
Try it out.
The only values you need to enter (in RED) are the width of the spring you need and the size of the wire.
Try it out.
The only values you need to enter (in RED) are the width of the spring you need and the size of the wire.
clever idea
Most of the Ribs are repetitive - the only difference is the size and some cut-outs are different. Below, I am demonstrating one particular style of RIB due to the cavity that is cut out - this is a way that I found to keep the tip of the Rib Cavity from crushing while applying pressure on the clips while drying.
One side is glued
FInal
[/B]
One side is glued
FInal
[/B]
Last edited:
It seems now that all of the main ribs are done. Next will be taking these over to the plans to get things lined up. There are some overhangs on the Cap Strips and they will be trimmed as required.
Yikes! I had no idea you were making so many of those fragile things! No wonder you made a jig...
Yes, Paul, they ARE very fragile - I have not actually measured the length, but guessing they are about 3 inches long and maybe at best 3/8 wide. The thickness is 1/32"
The Ribs on the far right side of the picture are the most fragile as near the rear of the rib are these small square openings which makes the rib even more fragile. It is really important to have the Cap strips pre bent as close to shape as you can not to put stress on the parts. Even though the jig is critical, you still have to hold both the cap strip and the rib with tweezers - then take small clamps to hold. I use CA glue with an accelerator to accomplish this. Trying to get that RIb right down the middle of the Cap Strip is what you are wanting to accomplish - thats the goal.
It follows the old saying idiom "to hold your mouth right" to make them !!! LOL
The Ribs on the far right side of the picture are the most fragile as near the rear of the rib are these small square openings which makes the rib even more fragile. It is really important to have the Cap strips pre bent as close to shape as you can not to put stress on the parts. Even though the jig is critical, you still have to hold both the cap strip and the rib with tweezers - then take small clamps to hold. I use CA glue with an accelerator to accomplish this. Trying to get that RIb right down the middle of the Cap Strip is what you are wanting to accomplish - thats the goal.
It follows the old saying idiom "to hold your mouth right" to make them !!! LOL
For some reason, the angled view looks like the spars are floating (towards the right side) and not lined up - but that is not the case. Everything is touching and lying correctly. I think the camera lens is doing some strange things.
At any rate, here is the latest of one wing (right side). I admit that it took a while to make sure I had the correct Ribs in the proper place as it is very easy to get them misarranged. The strangest part that took a little figuring out at first is that the last 4 ribs even though are ONE PIECE - the Aileron "TIP" will be cut FREE and that was a little confusing - as I had to read further into the instructions before that is even mentioned.
At any rate, here is the latest of one wing (right side). I admit that it took a while to make sure I had the correct Ribs in the proper place as it is very easy to get them misarranged. The strangest part that took a little figuring out at first is that the last 4 ribs even though are ONE PIECE - the Aileron "TIP" will be cut FREE and that was a little confusing - as I had to read further into the instructions before that is even mentioned.
The instructions call for you to use a diluted white glue/water ratio of about 50/50 or a little thicker so that the glue will have capillary action in the joints.
Now it is time to add one last-end Rib. The fore spar at the end has to taper down to fit into the "slot" of the last Rib. I have to admit that it took several times of reading the instructions to catch on to what to do. One of the illustrations on a few pages over gave a hint of the taper.
Time for the Ailerons.
The first image shows the right side done.
This shows the steps to make the process easier. Glue the small Aileron CAP on first and let dry. DO NOT glue the other joints. When the CAP is dry, then the entire Aileron-spar assembly will slide into position, and then you can glue.
The first image shows the right side done.
This shows the steps to make the process easier. Glue the small Aileron CAP on first and let dry. DO NOT glue the other joints. When the CAP is dry, then the entire Aileron-spar assembly will slide into position, and then you can glue.
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2016
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- Joined
- Dec 16, 2016
- Messages
- 1,150
- Points
- 493
Hi Donnie, It’s all looking good, an interesting build. As you noticed Santa left me the AL version, it was your log that inspired me to add the Sopwith Camel to my wish list, it shows that build logs do get noticed and give inspiration to others. I don’t know yet wether to thank or curse you but time will tell
Hi Ken,
thank you for viewing the log - I will tune into your AL version - and it will be interesting to see the differences. I forgot about the AL version.
thank you for viewing the log - I will tune into your AL version - and it will be interesting to see the differences. I forgot about the AL version.
Thank you all for the likes !
Well, this is dry-fitting the Britannia End pieces. It took a considerable amount of time to get them formed. I saw some discrepancies in the Box Art, instructions,
and other research about how the Metal pieces interface with the upper and lower spars. I just did what I thought was the best and looked more to life mechanically that is - but what do I know about aircraft anyway
Well, this is dry-fitting the Britannia End pieces. It took a considerable amount of time to get them formed. I saw some discrepancies in the Box Art, instructions,
and other research about how the Metal pieces interface with the upper and lower spars. I just did what I thought was the best and looked more to life mechanically that is - but what do I know about aircraft anyway
I almost forgot to mention that the front spars have to be in horizontal alignment - to do this, as you see I stood the wing on end and sanded back and forth until all the leading edges were straight. Then the wing is flipped the other way and the trailing edges were now sanded straight and flush.
So, I took Dean's advice (of viewing his SWC thread) and this is the result of about a solid hour of trying to dress up the pulley. This is as good as it gets unless it is made from scratch which I will not do. The pulley itself will be painted brass or left as is. I also forgot to take a pic of the side view - that's coming up soon when it is mounted.
Before and After is quite obvious. Thank goodness for now, I only have to do one more.
Before and After is quite obvious. Thank goodness for now, I only have to do one more.
Just found your build-log, Donnie. The engine is looking great.
And the build of the wings looks very fragile. But that is known from Dean’s build-log.
Regard, Peter