Model Shipways Armed Longboat [COMPLETED BUILD]

After conditioning the wood I sanded again with 230 grit then stained with Minwax golden oak. I'll do the simulated tree nails then a second coat of stain.

I have a problem. I marked out the waterline and for the life of me I can't get masking tape to stick so I can get a nice crisp line for the white paint below the waterline. I've tried two different types and nothing will stick. Anybody have an idea on what I can use?

20200331_184507.jpg
 
Sparky said:
Looks great! Just starting this kit, not sure of the type of glue to use. Any recommendations?
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I use a combination of yellow carpenter's glue and gel type (Loctite brand) super glue. It really depends on the situation. One of the drawbacks of soaking the strips in hot water is that if you then clamp after applying yellow glue by the time the glue dries the clamp marks are there forever and only deep sanding will erase them. The problem with using the super glue is that you only have a few seconds to get it right.

So, I'll typically use the super glue to lock into place the end of the strip I'm laying down, maybe even across another or third bulkhead, then yellow glue for the rest of the strip. If the strip of wood is dry I'll use yellow glue for the edges and if the strip is wet it'll be super glue. So...depending on the stituation.
 
Cutting out the middle bulkheads. It was neccessary for these to stay in place while fairing the hull and planking. Now that that's all behind us it's time to cut out the middle of each bulkhead, sand down the laser char, and fair the inside of the bulkheads.

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TKAM said:
Cutting out the middle bulkheads. It was neccessary for these to stay in place while fairing the hull and planking. Now that that's all behind us it's time to cut out the middle of each bulkhead, sand down the laser char, and fair the inside of the bulkheads.

View attachment 141296
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How did you cut these bulkheads out, TKAM? Are they pre-cut with laser and you just have to slice through with a blade?
 
TKAM said:
After conditioning the wood I sanded again with 230 grit then stained with Minwax golden oak. I'll do the simulated tree nails then a second coat of stain.

I have a problem. I marked out the waterline and for the life of me I can't get masking tape to stick so I can get a nice crisp line for the white paint below the waterline. I've tried two different types and nothing will stick. Anybody have an idea on what I can use?

View attachment 141106
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Have you tried Dymo label tape?
 
Masters Mate said:
How did you cut these bulkheads out, TKAM? Are they pre-cut with laser and you just have to slice through with a blade?
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If you look at some of my previously posted pics, take a look at what looks like a printed line on the face of each bulkhead. This is actually a laser cut. The bulkheads are solid at the top and bottom and in the middle it's already pre cut. Eventually you'll saw off that top part of each bulkhead and then just break off the bottom part.
 
Once the bulkheads are all cut out the top of the keel needs to be shaved down to the level of the bulkheads. Gross cuts with a chisel to start then sanding. The inside of the hull planks also need to be sanded down, it's easy on the outside of the hull and it's not so easy on the inside. Each little space in between each bulkhead needs to be sanded. Also the laser char needs to be sanded off. Oh, and the tops of each bulkhead needs to be lopped off and sanded smooth to match the level of the shear strake.

I flailed about for awhile making very little progress then I hit on something. I cut a strip a little narrower than the spaces out of sandpaper then wrapped the sandpaper strip around a mostly used roll of electrical tape. Now I can just scrape up and down with ease.


hbdtjyt.jpg
 
TKAM said:
If you look at some of my previously posted pics, take a look at what looks like a printed line on the face of each bulkhead. This is actually a laser cut. The bulkheads are solid at the top and bottom and in the middle it's already pre cut. Eventually you'll saw off that top part of each bulkhead and then just break off the bottom part.
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Thanks TKAM
I can see it now. I've got a Model Shipways 18th Century longboat on its way so I'm guessing it will be similar.
 
TKAM said:
All the bulkheads and stern transom installed. I faired the bulkheads and found two to be about 1/16" too low. No amount of sanding will bring these bulkheads in line with the others. These bulkheads are exactly on line with the laser cut bearding line so I can only assume it's a flaw in these two bulkheads themselves.

No problem, I glued down strips on the bottom of these two bulkheads (#2 and #3) and can sand them down so they are on the same level as the bordering bulkheads. It's just the bottoms, up near the wales it's nice and flush.

View attachment 138400View attachment 138401View attachment 138402View attachment 138403
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When the plans ask you "Fair the hull" . Not quiet sure how do you do this?
 
Sparky said:
When the plans ask you "Fair the hull" . Not quiet sure how do you do this?
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What that means Sparky is this: Pretend your hull plank has the consistency of cardboard. It lays down on each bulkhead easily. Along the middle of the boat it's nice and flush with the bulkhead and you have lots of area for the glue to do its job. But up there by the bow that cardboard plank only catches the very corner of the bulkhead, not only is there not enough area touching the bulkhead edge to glue but looking at the hull planking from the inside of the hull there are these horrific gaps between bulkhead and plank.

The goal is to "fair" each bulkhead so that when you lay down the plank it lays down flush on the bulkhead, there is lots of bulkhead edge to take glue and the curve of the hull towards the bow, and stern, is graceful with no big bumps or hollows. You'll be sanding the front edge of forward bulkheads and the back edge of aft bulkheads.

You get your planks nice and pliable like cardboard by any means you like. Some folks like to soak in hot water, perhaps with some ammonia in the water. Some folks like electric plank benders, some have plank bending pliers.

Makes sense?
 
TKAM said:
What that means Sparky is this: Pretend your hull plank has the consistency of cardboard. It lays down on each bulkhead easily. Along the middle of the boat it's nice and flush with the bulkhead and you have lots of area for the glue to do its job. But up there by the bow that cardboard plank only catches the very corner of the bulkhead, not only is there not enough area touching the bulkhead edge to glue but looking at the hull planking from the inside of the hull there are these horrific gaps between bulkhead and plank.

The goal is to "fair" each bulkhead so that when you lay down the plank it lays down flush on the bulkhead, there is lots of bulkhead edge to take glue and the curve of the hull towards the bow, and stern, is graceful with no big bumps or hollows. You'll be sanding the front edge of forward bulkheads and the back edge of aft bulkheads.

You get your planks nice and pliable like cardboard by any means you like. Some folks like to soak in hot water, perhaps with some ammonia in the water. Some folks like electric plank benders, some have plank bending pliers.

Makes sense?
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Thank you so much for the information
 
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