Lowes hardware store had poplar and these rafter squares. I think this will work....
Looks like you need to change techniques. If you can place a square wooden dowel in the vice, supported by forms (dark brown) at 45 degrees. File the corner edge to create a new facet on the yardarm dowel until the file contacts the top of the vice jaws. Rotate the dowel 180 degrees and file another facet using the forms to hold the dowel. The depth which you place the dowel is important, because that determines how wide the facets are. After these two you can remove the forms and place the dowel back in the vice after rotating it 90 degrees, such that the facets you just cut are now contacting the jaws of the vice. Set the depth of the dowel carefully, not too shallow from the top of the vice, and clamp the dowel in place. File the third facet, flip the dowel over and file the final facet and now you have an octagonal dowel. Place the dowel in a lathe or drill and sand the outboard ends round.
Alternatively, you can start with a round dowel. The faceting process is the same, but the amount of material you need to sand on the outboard ends of the yard is less than starting with a square dowel.
I think this was the 5th attempt. Used poplar wood, did a rough sanding with the machine and then finished up sanding by hand. The rafter squares work good.
I'm going to work on the top masts now, I think it would be better to get all of the centerline shrouds in at this time.
I'm going to work on the top masts now, I think it would be better to get all of the centerline shrouds in at this time.
Starting the shrouds for the top masts now. I'm using a thinner base thread to serve the line. I don't know if it is to scale but it is thinner than the main shrouds. Serving it went so well the I ended up serving about 5 feet of line.
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Splicing an eye... this was fun figuring out how to do this.
Well done on the eye splicing- came out wonderfully. I have not tried this yet however certainly looks like it is worth it.
I finished the main top ratlines. Before I put the 2 final stays on the main mast, I figured I should put the halliards in. The diagram on the directions weren't detailed enough. Same issue with the practicum from LSS. I ended up ordering some books.... interesting books but the one that I was able to find the answer in The Ship Model Builders Assistant. With all of this knowledge from the books, I just might do sails.
Now that I am looking at it.... I should have used a single block below and only one double above.
, single block on the bottom, double up top. Much better.
Paul, good job. Experience, it will come with time. Of course, you can correct this small inaccuracy, it's up to you.
I've decided on how I'll do the fore and main arms. I'm going to go with what the author says is pre 1820s. Rope sling in the middle, parrel straps holding it to the mast, braces, and lifts.
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This took a little longer than I anticipated. I secured the arm using a rope sling, parrel straps & yard tackle. The lower yard lifts and jackstays were pretty straight forward. The reef tackle, clew garnet, leechlines, and inner/outer buntlines weren't as difficult as I thought once I figured out how to make them. I still have to make the rope coils for the belay pins and the braces. I'm going to move on to the foremast now before I go vertical. I ordered some more tools to help with the rigging.
A pretty big learning curve for me.
A pretty big learning curve for me.
Futzing with parrels and the nave lines that tighten them has always been my greatest challenge. The lateen sail on the mizzen is the worst access-wise. Congratulations on accomplishing a rigging milestone.
The rigging tools just arrived..... things are going to her better now, maybe not but at least easier. 
Made a mouse for the preventer stay. I only served the line about 1 inch from the bottom of the mouse. 
It is about half the size of the mouse on the main stay. Next will be the main top mast stay.
It is about half the size of the mouse on the main stay. Next will be the main top mast stay.
