This is how I cut out the slats in the nose. But it turned out to be superfluous. This place will be covered by stringers. I'll show you later how it will look. And this place in the bow of the ship will be hidden by the upper deck.
Model VICTORY by Deagostini, scale 1/84
- Thread starter Alexander74
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Well, the result of the work for today. Almost finished the operdeck deck. Sandpaper a little. It remains to finish the rails near the sides, and in the stern area I will not fix it yet. There, the deck slats go onto the balcony, which I will not put up soon. Further on, I have in turn the frames of the cannon ports on the operdek, in those places where the guns will be visible. The rest of the ports will be closed (as planned). Work continues.
I will add light pear decking. The admiral's (central) board is slightly darker. It will be more noticeable after oil. The width of the admiral's board is 5 mm, the rest of the boards are 4 mm wide. Thickness 1 mm.
I thought a little here and thought that the frames of the gun ports should be made red. Colleagues, what can you say about this?
And yet, maybe someone has a photo with VICTORI's colors. I understand from the books that it changed 3 or 4 times. Then probably at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar. Outside, it seemed to be yellow with black stripes. And from the inside? What color are the bulwarks inside? Need your help.
And yet, maybe someone has a photo with VICTORI's colors. I understand from the books that it changed 3 or 4 times. Then probably at the time of the Battle of Trafalgar. Outside, it seemed to be yellow with black stripes. And from the inside? What color are the bulwarks inside? Need your help.
Sasha, your work never ceases to amaze me. Bravo!
This is the second time I have heard you mention pear, is that the best wood to use?
This is the second time I have heard you mention pear, is that the best wood to use?
Paul, in Russia, many models in Russia consider a pear with one of the best options for building models. It is not difficult to get and the model looks very beautiful. Look at my brigantine model "Phoenix" in the gallery. It is made of pear and black grab. Or deck on the yacht "Standard", it is also from a pear.
Hello everyone. I decided to finish the operdek deck aft. Reiki should go a little to the balcony. To position the deck planks, I glued a plank on the inside of the aft frame. The deck boards will lie on it.
This is how it looks with a balcony fitting
This is how it looks with a balcony fitting
This is how the completed operdeck deck looks like. Then I will also install pins on the boards and grind. But this is probably already after the hull plating. Let's see
Now I need to align all the hull lines and prepare the model for the skin. As has been said many times in different assemblies, it is best to check the smoothness of the contours with a rail. I took a rail with a thickness of 2 mm and 5 mm. On flat areas I apply a 5 mm rail, but if there is none, then you can attach another rail with an edge. It is desirable that it be at least 2 mm thick so that it does not bend. On the bow, stern and below the waterline contours, the rail must be applied with a plane. So it is more convenient and clearly visible where there are gaps, and where the humps remain. The first photo shows that I have a slight dip. I aligned the plane along the entire side.
Here it is already exactly
And these are the same reiki. On the rug it lies for smooth contours, and on the body there is a thick rail for straight lines. For straight lines, by the way, it is fashionable to use a metal ruler, attaching it with an edge.
Here it is already exactly
And these are the same reiki. On the rug it lies for smooth contours, and on the body there is a thick rail for straight lines. For straight lines, by the way, it is fashionable to use a metal ruler, attaching it with an edge.
Looking great Alexander!
Nice and clean work Sasha. Awesome!
Din62 and Paul thanks for the feedback. This inspires us to continue working.
You bet, I enjoy watching your build. You do excellent work and I hope one day I can do rigging as good as you!
Hello everyone. Thanks for the comments and likes. Once again, a photo of the completed operdek deck, without unnecessary fixtures.
Started marking the skin and frames on the hull. First I drew the gun ports, after that I marked the Barkhouts. Marked from bottom to top, the lowest Mainwelsbarhout, above it the Chagenwelsbarhout and Shierwelsbarhout. There is a cladding between them. I needed this in order to calculate the dimensions of the cladding strips. There are many different planks here. Both thickness and width differ.
In these photos, two frames of the cannon ports are still visible. I made them from a red hornbeam.
In these photos, two frames of the cannon ports are still visible. I made them from a red hornbeam.
Heinrich, I don't like paint. Or I don't know how to use it.
When I made the Yacht "Shtandart" there were a lot of painted parts on it.
Heinrich, this one is not. At that moment, Sergei did not have a red hornbeam. I got sick of this bar from the guys who make knives. They use it to make handles. The block itself is small, you cannot cut the slats from it. But for the framework of the gun ports it is quite enough.
P.S. By the way, Sergey and I live in the same city. So I have some advantage in supplying materials for building ships.