Montanes by OcCre 1:70

[Mirek]

Witaj Scotola
Twój montanes przegląda ślicznie ,robisz kawał dobrej roboty. Takielunko to dobry dostęp do planu, ale dobrze może dodać nowość, aby skorzystać z pomocy dobrego konsumenta tureckiego. Instrukcja jest uproszczona dlatego nie ma tamch np.; gałek tureckich w tych statkach były. Twój Montanes jest super ale mógłby jeszcze lepiej
Pozdrawiam Mirek

 

[Scott Shilling]

Hello everyone. Time for my weekly update.

Mostly I just continued work on the standing rigging and rat lines. Playing around with loads of techniques of dealing with fuzz and searching for an alternative to CA glue.

I also joined the RockyMountain Shipwrights club!! What a great bunch of guys. Several of them are world class. During the meeting we got into an interesting discussion of establishing the value of these models that we slave over for years at a time. The subject was brought up by a member that had just finished a Sovereign of the Seas from a very very old kit. I saw a picture and it was beautiful. His complaint was the fact that you can purchase a completed build from China or somewhere for $500 to $900.

That is when things got interesting. One of the members had been contracted by the Denver Brown Palace (owned by the unsinkable Molly Brown - a famous survivor of the Titanic) to restore 13 of their model tall ships. They are on display in the "Ships Tavern" bar in building. These are scratch builds from the 1930's and he was entrusted to clean and refurbish them. He told the group it was the most nerve wrecking thing he'd ever done. The are insured for $1.2m (that is for all of them). he was not allowed to remove them from the building so he did his work on them in office above the tavern. On Wednesday I am going to go take my wife there for lunch and a beer and check them out. I'll take a few pics and post them.

We then got into the discussion of how to go about valuing the models that we do. It depended on the size and complexity of the model of course but these bigger "Expert" models should be insured for between $10k and $20k, via a rider on your home insurance. Scratch builds from master shipwrights can go for up to $50k. They can be considered as a work of art.

I peruse around this board a lot trying to learn how to do things but I have never seen any discussion about valuation. Was our discussion totally out of line or is this what is generally accepted for valuing these completed models.

Ok - for my weekly update. I just kept tinkering with with rigging and ratlines. The foremast is completely finished and I am now working on mainmast ratlines. Once this is done I'll connect the outer side stays. I am going to stick with my current thread for the ratlines but I'll switch to a different thread (one that is less fuzzy) for the running rigging. Even though this thread is fuzzy I think it would look funny if half of the ratlines were with one thread and the other half with a different thread.

BTW - those are not ice cubes, they are hail stones. Mostly dime sized with the odd quarter sized one in there. Made a lot of noise and I was glad to have a garage.

Oh Oh. I found that the candle wax produces a lot of candle was dust. So I took to hitting the thread with a blow drier and melt it in. Works Great!!!

I look forward to opinions about valuations.

Scott

​

 

[Vfordyce]

Hello everyone. Time for my weekly update.

Mostly I just continued work on the standing rigging and rat lines. Playing around with loads of techniques of dealing with fuzz and searching for an alternative to CA glue.

I also joined the RockyMountain Shipwrights club!! What a great bunch of guys. Several of them are world class. During the meeting we got into an interesting discussion of establishing the value of these models that we slave over for years at a time. The subject was brought up by a member that had just finished a Sovereign of the Seas from a very very old kit. I saw a picture and it was beautiful. His complaint was the fact that you can purchase a completed build from China or somewhere for $500 to $900.

That is when things got interesting. One of the members had been contracted by the Denver Brown Palace (owned by the unsinkable Molly Brown - a famous survivor of the Titanic) to restore 13 of their model tall ships. They are on display in the "Ships Tavern" bar in building. These are scratch builds from the 1930's and he was entrusted to clean and refurbish them. He told the group it was the most nerve wrecking thing he'd ever done. The are insured for $1.2m (that is for all of them). he was not allowed to remove them from the building so he did his work on them in office above the tavern. On Wednesday I am going to go take my wife there for lunch and a beer and check them out. I'll take a few pics and post them.

We then got into the discussion of how to go about valuing the models that we do. It depended on the size and complexity of the model of course but these bigger "Expert" models should be insured for between $10k and $20k, via a rider on your home insurance. Scratch builds from master shipwrights can go for up to $50k. They can be considered as a work of art.

I peruse around this board a lot trying to learn how to do things but I have never seen any discussion about valuation. Was our discussion totally out of line or is this what is generally accepted for valuing these completed models.

Ok - for my weekly update. I just kept tinkering with with rigging and ratlines. The foremast is completely finished and I am now working on mainmast ratlines. Once this is done I'll connect the outer side stays. I am going to stick with my current thread for the ratlines but I'll switch to a different thread (one that is less fuzzy) for the running rigging. Even though this thread is fuzzy I think it would look funny if half of the ratlines were with one thread and the other half with a different thread.

BTW - those are not ice cubes, they are hail stones. Mostly dime sized with the odd quarter sized one in there. Made a lot of noise and I was glad to have a garage.

Oh Oh. I found that the candle wax produces a lot of candle was dust. So I took to hitting the thread with a blow drier and melt it in. Works Great!!!

I look forward to opinions about valuations.

Scott

View attachment 252078View attachment 252077View attachment 252076View attachment 252075View attachment 252074View attachment 252079View attachment 252080

​

Nice Pix. I suppose the valuation is whatever the market will allow. You can set any figure you want. You only have to get somebody to pay it.

 

[Richie]

Hello everyone. Time for my weekly update.

Mostly I just continued work on the standing rigging and rat lines. Playing around with loads of techniques of dealing with fuzz and searching for an alternative to CA glue.

I also joined the RockyMountain Shipwrights club!! What a great bunch of guys. Several of them are world class. During the meeting we got into an interesting discussion of establishing the value of these models that we slave over for years at a time. The subject was brought up by a member that had just finished a Sovereign of the Seas from a very very old kit. I saw a picture and it was beautiful. His complaint was the fact that you can purchase a completed build from China or somewhere for $500 to $900.

That is when things got interesting. One of the members had been contracted by the Denver Brown Palace (owned by the unsinkable Molly Brown - a famous survivor of the Titanic) to restore 13 of their model tall ships. They are on display in the "Ships Tavern" bar in building. These are scratch builds from the 1930's and he was entrusted to clean and refurbish them. He told the group it was the most nerve wrecking thing he'd ever done. The are insured for $1.2m (that is for all of them). he was not allowed to remove them from the building so he did his work on them in office above the tavern. On Wednesday I am going to go take my wife there for lunch and a beer and check them out. I'll take a few pics and post them.

We then got into the discussion of how to go about valuing the models that we do. It depended on the size and complexity of the model of course but these bigger "Expert" models should be insured for between $10k and $20k, via a rider on your home insurance. Scratch builds from master shipwrights can go for up to $50k. They can be considered as a work of art.

I peruse around this board a lot trying to learn how to do things but I have never seen any discussion about valuation. Was our discussion totally out of line or is this what is generally accepted for valuing these completed models.

Ok - for my weekly update. I just kept tinkering with with rigging and ratlines. The foremast is completely finished and I am now working on mainmast ratlines. Once this is done I'll connect the outer side stays. I am going to stick with my current thread for the ratlines but I'll switch to a different thread (one that is less fuzzy) for the running rigging. Even though this thread is fuzzy I think it would look funny if half of the ratlines were with one thread and the other half with a different thread.

BTW - those are not ice cubes, they are hail stones. Mostly dime sized with the odd quarter sized one in there. Made a lot of noise and I was glad to have a garage.

Oh Oh. I found that the candle wax produces a lot of candle was dust. So I took to hitting the thread with a blow drier and melt it in. Works Great!!!

I look forward to opinions about valuations.

Scott

View attachment 252078View attachment 252077View attachment 252076View attachment 252075View attachment 252074View attachment 252079View attachment 252080

​

Interesting indeed the topic of value on models, alas I don't have the answer but sometimes wonder if I should invest my time elsewhere that could generate an income as I dont think building model ships will do it for me

It seems like you are using the Occre supplied threads as they look like the same ones from my kit for the Revenge.
I was debating to myself when I get to the rigging should I replace them with something else as they do seem quite fuzzy, interested to hear on others thoughts.
Also the sizing seems totally different to another brand I had left over from my first build.

I do quite like the Santisma Trinadad and your build looks great and wondering if I am up for the challenge as a future build.

 

[Dean62]

I use bees wax on my lines. You run the line along edge of the wax, then pull it through your fingers as you twist it, to spread it around the line evenly. Very easy and quick once you get the hang of it. You can buy bees wax online from hobby shops.

 

[dockattner]

I was just going to say what Dean said. While I am as new to this as you I have never read about anyone using candle wax. I would think that's way too hard to be helpful...

 

[Scott Shilling]

My intention is to NOT put this in a case. So it's going to attract some dust. The plan is to keep a can of air and dust it off periodically. Someone posted that bees wax can attract dust. If this is indeed the case I'd need to periodically wipe off the lines - this thought spooks me. This afternoon I am going to mix some white glue with water and "paint" a couple areas of the ratlines and see what happens. I'll post the results.

If bees wax collecting dust is a myth please let me know and I'll start using it straightaway.

 

[El Capi]

agree

I was just going to say what Dean said. While I am as new to this as you I have never read about anyone using candle wax. I would think that's way too hard to be helpful...

Yes, Camdelight is general very hard, but like butter in the fridge- add it -not too near a slightly warm put etc. now you can work with it. as one which you have added the vax, runs your finger in the same direction. this has two effects:1Running your finger you will make some heat, which will glue the fuzz special:2. When the Stearin (Candelkigt cools down, it will get very hard again. As children, I am sure we have all played with Candlelight, which is stonehard until you add a lighter to the CenterPoint. the flame now starts burning and the candlelight starts welting liquid- but make a move it will etart running down-on you finger our outside. SURPRISE it is now no longer liquid, bur starting to get hard. I know this very well, as I was working in the margarine industry, where many types of fat and oil are used. one of the hardest ones is Palmoil -a bad word for the moment- it needs 90+ º to melt

 

[Dean62]

My intention is to NOT put this in a case. So it's going to attract some dust. The plan is to keep a can of air and dust it off periodically. Someone posted that bees wax can attract dust. If this is indeed the case I'd need to periodically wipe off the lines - this thought spooks me. This afternoon I am going to mix some white glue with water and "paint" a couple areas of the ratlines and see what happens. I'll post the results.

If bees wax collecting dust is a myth please let me know and I'll start using it straightaway.

The beeswax collecting dust is a myth! At least if the quote below is accurate!

 

[Vfordyce]

I've been collecting dust. About time to start working on my model again.

 

[Scott Shilling]

Playing around with different techniques to cut down on fuzz. this first go round is 25% white glue and 75% water. Worked ok - I am going to bump this to 50:50 and try again this evening.

 

[Scott Shilling]

Dean, I ordered some beeswax.

Anyone have an suggestions for alternate running rigging line. The thread provided by OcCre is 0.15m \

Thanks

 

[El Capi]

The beeswax collecting dust is a myth! At least if the quote below is accurate!

View attachment 252213

EACH MOTHER LIKES ITS OWN KITS. iI have Stearin (candlelight for more then 40 Years, but everybody finds its own way to go. THAT is the Beuty in this hobby

 

[El Capi]

Playing around with different techniques to cut down on fuzz. this first go round is 25% white glue and 75% water. Worked ok - I am going to bump this to 50:50 and try again this evening.

View attachment 252251View attachment 252250

white glue with the right dilution is very good too, especially standing riggen

 

[Scott Shilling]

Weekly Update - slogging through rat lines

Not to be utterly boring but rat lines are time consuming for sure. Over the next couple of days I'll finish the main mast then I'll put up the outer stays. Mizzen mast is last. I will be happy for sure to finish this off.

Still waiting for the beeswax from Model Expo. So in the mean time here is what I am doing. I take a long thread (3 meters at least) and hit it with a mix of about 40:60 white glue and water. It dries fast. I then cut a section, attach a weight to one end then hit it with a quick swipe of flame to clear off any remaining fuzz. It works well. Once I get enough courage I'll work on some of the lines that are already on the boat.

Couple of pics below.

 

[Vfordyce]

You should be able to pick up some beeswax at Hobby Lobby or Michael’s pretty easily.

 

[Scott Shilling]

Done - went over to Hobby Lobby and picked some up. Seems to have the same consistency as a candle. I will give it a go this evening.

 

[Scott Shilling]

Weekly update - finally completed the main mast rat lines and standing rigging (almost)

Took the holiday off and visited some relatives clear over in Gunnison Colorado. Did some golfing with my newly constructed shoulder. Amazingly, no pain. but I am way out of practice. my first round was a 109 with my second round being 100. I blew it on the last couple of holes. The good news is that I believe I'll be back to shooting in the 80's with only a few more rounds of practice.

Back to the boat. I have finally finished all rat lines and shrouds for the main mast. I just have a couple of outer stays left to do, which I will tackle this evening.

Here is my report on reducing fuzz. Beeswax is clearly the best. Even so I found that it was best to burn off the initial fuzz with a lighter flame first. Since I dried many anti fuzz methods I figured I'd list my results

• Candle wax works but it can leave some "candle dust". Burn off the fuzz, apply the wax, melt with wax with a blow drier. Indeed the knots seem to really lock in when you tighten them
• Mixes of glue and water. After burning off the fuzz I found that the string is indeed fuzz free but it's ..... brittle. if the glue water mix is too low I found that I had a fuzz issue. So it's a tad hard to work with.
• Combo of candle wax and glue works very well sans the candle dust
• Beeswax works best for sure. Burn off the fuzz then apply. I tried the blow drier on it but no need. The only thing I am worried about is will it indeed attract dust.

I will start the mizzen mast tomorrow (beeswax only). This evening I'll attach the final outer stays. I will be good to finally get past this phase.

Have a nice day everyone.

Photos below.

 

[Scott Shilling]

Weekly update - so close to finishing the standing rigging I can almost taste it.

I started this stuff around mid July and it looks like I'll have it wrapped up mid Sept. Two solid months!! sheesh.

Tonight the objective is to complete the rat lines on the starboard side of the upper mizzen mast, Port side tomorrow, then the final outer stays Wednesday and Thursday.

At this point I will stop with the rigging and yards etc and take a few weeks to clean up things that need to get done on the boat proper. Need to get the cannon door lines done, got some window grating to clean up and a few other bits.

Have a nice day everyone.

Couple pics below.

 

[El Capi]

Weekly update - so close to finishing the standing rigging I can almost taste it.

I started this stuff around mid July and it looks like I'll have it wrapped up mid Sept. Two solid months!! sheesh.

Tonight the objective is to complete the rat lines on the starboard side of the upper mizzen mast, Port side tomorrow, then the final outer stays Wednesday and Thursday.

At this point I will stop with the rigging and yards etc and take a few weeks to clean up things that need to get done on the boat proper. Need to get the cannon door lines done, got some window grating to clean up and a few other bits.

Have a nice day everyone.

Couple pics below.

View attachment 256030View attachment 256031View attachment 256032

LOOKS WELL SO FAR. Happy to see these pics. as are well done. Do not set a specific work time, but only work on the sip, when you like to do it and relaxed. I have over the mail just send a lot of info. how to make the sails correctly- DO NOT USE THE READY SAILS FROM THE KIT- out to the bin.