Montanes by OcCre 1:70

[Scott Shilling]

Hello everyone. Time to get this project back underway.

It has been 5 weeks post surgery and all seems well. I got the boat out and did a couple of trial cuts. With a little help with my left hand I seem to be able to use the knife just fine. The PT folks are telling me I am doing well and surprisingly the range of motion is amazing. I am looking forward to having a 20 year old arm here later this summer or early fall. All on the up and up.

I also did a critical look at the model and realized that I was hurrying to get as much done as I could before the surgery. Not a good idea as I have some issues to correct. oh well. Going forward I plan on slowing down and taking my time. I am also going to be much more careful with the CA glue. Now that summer time is almost upon us I will greatly enhance the ventilation.

Immediate tasks are to complete the the cannon port covers and to get the rudder on. Once this is done the boat is officially "fragile". So it's time to enhance the cradle it sits in.

Well - mostly folks, I am back and will start posting again.

Scott

 

[dockattner]

Twenty year old arm sounds great - just don't pair it with a new 20 year old wife....

Welcome back!

 

[Jimsky]

Welcome back, great to know you are feeling good post-surgery! Take it easy.

 

[El Capi]

Hello everyone. Time to get this project back underway.

It has been 5 weeks post surgery and all seems well. I got the boat out and did a couple of trial cuts. With a little help with my left hand I seem to be able to use the knife just fine. The PT folks are telling me I am doing well and surprisingly the range of motion is amazing. I am looking forward to having a 20 year old arm here later this summer or early fall. All on the up and up.

I also did a critical look at the model and realized that I was hurrying to get as much done as I could before the surgery. Not a good idea as I have some issues to correct. oh well. Going forward I plan on slowing down and taking my time. I am also going to be much more careful with the CA glue. Now that summer time is almost upon us I will greatly enhance the ventilation.

Immediate tasks are to complete the the cannon port covers and to get the rudder on. Once this is done the boat is officially "fragile". So it's time to enhance the cradle it sits in.

Well - mostly folks, I am back and will start posting again.

Scott


View attachment 231123

sorry to hear about your health problems -I know this well on my own -just 6take it easy.

 

[Mirek]

Witaj
Fajnie że już jesteś z nami powodzenia w modelowaniu. Ramię nowe, nowe możliwości nie spiesz się pośpiech jest złym doradcą
Pozdrawiam Mirek

 

[Uwek]

Good to hear, that you feel good - so I wish you a fast and complete recovery, so you can build your model by 100%
Happy, that you are back

 

[Scott Shilling]

Got things back up and running. I am laughing at myself a bit as my arm strength is pretty low (right now the PT folks are focused on mobility - strength comes next). So when I reach forward to glue on a piece, or whatever, my arm can be a bit wavy. Good news is that it doesn't really hurt.

Here is what I did last week:
1 - put on the rudder. OcCre is providing crazy cheap stained plywood stock for all walnut parts. So I glued on a 1x5mm strip of real walnut to the outside back of the rudder to try to hide the plywood edge. The rest of mounting the rudder went fine although slow.

2 - glued on the remaining cannon port doors (starboard side). I had these built before surgery so it was just a matter of drilling the nail holes and gluing them in place. I still need to figure out a good way to attach the ropes that open the doors.

3 - One of the things that El Capi warned me about when I was gluing on the black cannon holders was that I could accidentally loose them because of the additional 2mm strips to set everything back. Sure enough I pushed a little too hard on one of them and it broke off and fell into the hull. I dumped in some glue to keep if from rattling around.

To fix it I cut a replacement that would fit through the cannon port at an angle. then I drilled a hole in the middle and attached a small screw with some thread attached. Put on glue around the edges, fit it through, use the string to pull it up, then with some needle nose pliers you can grab the screw head and properly put it in place. Wait a few mins, then apply some more CA glue. Go have lunch and give it an hour or two to really get solid. Unscrew the screw, paint it black and attach the cannon. Done, it worked. See pics.

Next up are cannons and some of the finer things on deck. Continue PT and strengthening my wobbly arm. My wife was laughing at me while watching me try to attach some of the cannon ports doors. oh oh. you might notice in a couple of pics that the walnut rubbing strakes are dinged up. I repaired this as well.

Pics below.

 

[El Capi]

Got things back up and running. I am laughing at myself a bit as my arm strength is pretty low (right now the PT folks are focused on mobility - strength comes next). So when I reach forward to glue on a piece, or whatever, my arm can be a bit wavy. Good news is that it doesn't really hurt.

Here is what I did last week:
1 - put on the rudder. OcCre is providing crazy cheap stained plywood stock for all walnut parts. So I glued on a 1x5mm strip of real walnut to the outside back of the rudder to try to hide the plywood edge. The rest of mounting the rudder went fine although slow.

2 - glued on the remaining cannon port doors (starboard side). I had these built before surgery so it was just a matter of drilling the nail holes and gluing them in place. I still need to figure out a good way to attach the ropes that open the doors.

3 - One of the things that El Capi warned me about when I was gluing on the black cannon holders was that I could accidentally loose them because of the additional 2mm strips to set everything back. Sure enough I pushed a little too hard on one of them and it broke off and fell into the hull. I dumped in some glue to keep if from rattling around.

To fix it I cut a replacement that would fit through the cannon port at an angle. then I drilled a hole in the middle and attached a small screw with some thread attached. Put on glue around the edges, fit it through, use the string to pull it up, then with some needle nose pliers you can grab the screw head and properly put it in place. Wait a few mins, then apply some more CA glue. Go have lunch and give it an hour or two to really get solid. Unscrew the screw, paint it black and attach the cannon. Done, it worked. See pics.

Next up are cannons and some of the finer things on deck. Continue PT and strengthening my wobbly arm. My wife was laughing at me while watching me try to attach some of the cannon ports doors. oh oh. you might notice in a couple of pics that the walnut rubbing strakes are dinged up. I repaired this as well.

Pics below.

View attachment 232664View attachment 232665View attachment 232666View attachment 232667View attachment 232666View attachment 232667View attachment 232668View attachment 232669View attachment 232670View attachment 232671

iI will not say that I did nor Warned You. You can only hope that the glue and wood will go ashoc. Strong changes in temperature -cold, warm humility, some will go. You have now learned the Lesson
I am today for some Years now an ENEMY of dummy gun. I insert a lover Deck adding Gun carries and guns. i know, that one will have to make a lot of gun carries. it looks much better. the gun pibes can be a problem if you do not have a lathe for metal. as I did not have a wood miller or other cutting tools. i used the birthday cake methune. one layer at a time.

 

[Scott Shilling]

Yeah I kind of agree, so with the next model I'll make sure to get one that does not have the dummies. But I have a long long way to go with this model first.

On a side note. I glued together the cannons for the deck. To me they seem a tad bit small for the boat. But more importantly, I found that messing about with the 0.5m thread per the instructions is pretty challenging with the ends frizzing quickly and becoming a bit unruly. I confirmed that CA glue fumes hit me hard enough that I need to just put it away. My question is this, beeswax? I saw a video once where the modeler was using beeswax a lot. I cannot remember the video, so I am putting it to the modelers here. What is the story with beeswax anyway, is it a decent alternative?

 

[El Capi]

Yeah I kind of agree, so with the next model I'll make sure to get one that does not have the dummies. But I have a long long way to go with this model first.

On a side note. I glued together the cannons for the deck. To me they seem a tad bit small for the boat. But more importantly, I found that messing about with the 0.5m thread per the instructions is pretty challenging with the ends frizzing quickly and becoming a bit unruly. I confirmed that CA glue fumes hit me hard enough that I need to just put it away. My question is this, beeswax? I saw a video once where the modeler was using beeswax a lot. I cannot remember the video, so I am putting it to the modelers here. What is the story with beeswax anyway, is it a decent alternative?

hi. no this with Beewax is quite through, but today hard to find. two posibilies.1. i put carpenter glue on me fingers and then let the cord through here. another one is candlelight. it is very hard, but set near a warm put etc, then it will be work¡ebel .t will get stiff very soon again

 

[El Capi]

hi. no this with Beewax is quite through, but today hard to find. two posibilies.1. i put carpenter glue on me fingers and then let the cord through here. another one is candlelight. it is very hard, but set near a warm put etc, then it will be work¡ebel .t will get stiff very soon again

Hi Scottola, you have mentioned further up, that you find the dummy nose too short -and you are right- but BE CAREFULL -to substitute them with bigger ones. You will run into a big RISK here, as you by accident (.)tough one and it gets loose. especially during Rggen, you will have to from one side to another-, special if you have like me a Belly

 

[Scott Shilling]

After playing around with Candle wax, CA glue, and white glue to stiffen up the ends of the thread to make it easier to thread through small holes I found that CA glue is best. So I'll cut my thread and then go outside to use the CA glue. I'll tie all of the cannon lines later this week.

On another note. I can see why a lot of these models just end up in a closet somewhere. They can be frustrating for sure. Here is my current "parts don't fit right" scenario. The back plate of the officer's quarters does not match the pictures. Let me show you my issue.

Here is how the back plate is supposed to fit. The plate is attached so that the primary opening is 2mm below the top part of the deck. Then a piece of 2mm x 2mm sapelli is glued to the top of that to bring it to the same height as the deck.



So... That is what I did.



I dry fitted it and it fits nicely. Great - a little sanding and all is well.

Over the weekend I discovered my next problem, parts 157 and 158. These are supposed to be glued to the bottom of the back plate and about midway down the upper rubbing strakes.


Ok easy enough. BUT. The bottom of the back plate is too high!!! Now what?? if you put parts 157 and 158 on the rubbing strake they won't make contact with the back plate. The back plate is a full 5mm too high.



I was not too worried about the nick because it would have been hidden by the officer's quarters.

Ok - what to do. I could simply put part 157 above the strakes but what about all of the parts that go above that?? I need to get a feel for the overall height of the bits that fit on top. So I dry fitted them to check the measurement.



I measured this at about 65 mm. From the top of the strake to the top looks to be about 70mm so I have 5mm to play with.



ok - with this I will put part 157 and 158 above the strake, plus I'll need to add a couple mm's to make sure they fit properly.



I'll go ahead and glue on parts 157 158 159 and 160 this evening. Then shift my focus to the cannon ropes. I think I am about three weeks away from building the actual officer's quarters. Fingers crossed that decisions I make now won't bite me later.

One thing for sure. There are members on this forum that are such experts and display their remarkable techniques and skill. Then there are folks like me, limited tools, ok skills, and determination. The challenge is to not get overly discouraged and just keep going.

The boat is looking pretty good

Scott

 

[Scott Shilling]

Update on this latest fiasco. Either parts 157 through 160 are completely jacked or the back plate is wrong sized. Either way by paying attention this time I believe I have it sorted. IMO parts 157 through 160 are grossly undersized. I figured it out by having a much deeper look at the metal part that fits below. It was too big! What? So I butted it up to where it will ultimately go and "Hello" it size fit to the back plate.

Ok fine. So I ripped off the 2mm extension and instead glued on a full 5mm sapelli plank to it. Now it fits. I also needed to glue a 3mm extension to 159.

Everything seems to fit now so I am back to making progress.

Sheesh

 

[El Capi]

After playing around with Candle wax, CA glue, and white glue to stiffen up the ends of the thread to make it easier to thread through small holes I found that CA glue is best. So I'll cut my thread and then go outside to use the CA glue. I'll tie all of the cannon lines later this week.

On another note. I can see why a lot of these models just end up in a closet somewhere. They can be frustrating for sure. Here is my current "parts don't fit right" scenario. The back plate of the officer's quarters does not match the pictures. Let me show you my issue.

Here is how the back plate is supposed to fit. The plate is attached so that the primary opening is 2mm below the top part of the deck. Then a piece of 2mm x 2mm sapelli is glued to the top of that to bring it to the same height as the deck.

View attachment 233970

So... That is what I did.

View attachment 233973

I dry fitted it and it fits nicely. Great - a little sanding and all is well.

Over the weekend I discovered my next problem, parts 157 and 158. These are supposed to be glued to the bottom of the back plate and about midway down the upper rubbing strakes.
View attachment 233978

Ok easy enough. BUT. The bottom of the back plate is too high!!! Now what?? if you put parts 157 and 158 on the rubbing strake they won't make contact with the back plate. The back plate is a full 5mm too high.

View attachment 233980

I was not too worried about the nick because it would have been hidden by the officer's quarters.

Ok - what to do. I could simply put part 157 above the strakes but what about all of the parts that go above that?? I need to get a feel for the overall height of the bits that fit on top. So I dry fitted them to check the measurement.

View attachment 233983

I measured this at about 65 mm. From the top of the strake to the top looks to be about 70mm so I have 5mm to play with.

View attachment 233984

ok - with this I will put part 157 and 158 above the strake, plus I'll need to add a couple mm's to make sure they fit properly.

View attachment 233985View attachment 233986

I'll go ahead and glue on parts 157 158 159 and 160 this evening. Then shift my focus to the cannon ropes. I think I am about three weeks away from building the actual officer's quarters. Fingers crossed that decisions I make now won't bite me later.

One thing for sure. There are members on this forum that are such experts and display their remarkable techniques and skill. Then there are folks like me, limited tools, ok skills, and determination. The challenge is to not get overly discouraged and just keep going.

The boat is looking pretty good

Scott

have a look on Mireks Poland build.

Update on this latest fiasco. Either parts 157 through 160 are completely jacked or the back plate is wrong sized. Either way by paying attention this time I believe I have it sorted. IMO parts 157 through 160 are grossly undersized. I figured it out by having a much deeper look at the metal part that fits below. It was too big! What? So I butted it up to where it will ultimately go and "Hello" it size fit to the back plate.

Ok fine. So I ripped off the 2mm extension and instead glued on a full 5mm sapelli plank to it. Now it fits. I also needed to glue a 3mm extension to 159.

Everything seems to fit now so I am back to making progress.

Sheesh

View attachment 234108View attachment 234109

It looks fairly good now- only that little corner-you will have the same problem with the upper part, so do as you did below-Like Mirek and myselces we did NOT use the metallic part

 

[El Capi]

some pic from poland

 

[Scott Shilling]

Another update. El Capi, I see what Mirek did, looks fantastic. I am afraid I don't have the appropriate tools or skills to scratch build this. So I am stuck using the bits that OcCre put in the kit.

I finalized the starboard side and dry fit everything to see how it will ultimately all fit together. Wow. The parts just don't fit will. Oh well, I'll ultimately make it look ok. Tonight I'll wrap up the port side then move on to something else. The instructions don't have you building the actual Officers quarters until much later.

When I loop back around to complete this I'll of course need to trim off the strakes.

 

[El Capi]

Another update. El Capi, I see what Mirek did, looks fantastic. I am afraid I don't have the appropriate tools or skills to scratch build this. So I am stuck using the bits that OcCre put in the kit.

I finalized the starboard side and dry fit everything to see how it will ultimately all fit together. Wow. The parts just don't fit will. Oh well, I'll ultimately make it look ok. Tonight I'll wrap up the port side then move on to something else. The instructions don't have you building the actual Officers quarters until much later.

When I loop back around to complete this I'll of course need to trim off the strakes.

View attachment 234329View attachment 234330View attachment 234331

better. anyway the Mirik mode KIT, l is the same as yours. he has just asked for some advice- With a Dremel or Proxcon with its accessory is more than enough.

 

[Mirek]

Witaj Scottola
Umiejętności mój drogi to ty masz. Robisz starannie piękny model. Ja zamiast tych blaszek dałem fornir grubości 0,7 mm. Skleiłem podwójnie wyciekłem nożykiem otwory na okienka zamoczyłem na chwile w wodzie wygiąłem i gotowe. Może to ci pomoże.
Pozdrawiam Mirek

​

 

[Scott Shilling]

Hello Mirek. I found a translator and this is what I got

"You have the skills, my dear. You make a beautiful model carefully. Instead of these plates, I gave a 0.7 mm thick veneer. I glued the holes for the windows twice, leaked with a knife, soaked them in water for a moment, bent them and it's ready. Maybe it will help you."

Wow - the site just burped and I lost my entire post. Starting over

Pondering what to do with this this current advice from El Capi and Mirek. I went out and had a good look at some Montanes officers quarters scratch builds and some that used just the kit parts. I think I will stick to the supplied parts. Got just to much invested on this approach and I am pretty sure I in the end it will look ok.
El Capi and Mirek, please keep the advice flowing as I do find it very helpful.

Here are my short term plans:

• Tonight - I'll complete the officer's quarters frams on the port side
• Tomorrow - Complete tieing the cannon ropes
• Over the weekend end I'd like to do the capstans and place all of eye rings. If I get a chance I'll try to do the railings around the center section

Scott

 

[El Capi]

Hello Mirek. I found a translator and this is what I got

"You have the skills, my dear. You make a beautiful model carefully. Instead of these plates, I gave a 0.7 mm thick veneer. I glued the holes for the windows twice, leaked with a knife, soaked them in water for a moment, bent them and it's ready. Maybe it will help you."

Wow - the site just burped and I lost my entire post. Starting over

Pondering what to do with this this current advice from El Capi and Mirek. I went out and had a good look at some Montanes officers quarters scratch builds and some that used just the kit parts. I think I will stick to the supplied parts. Got just to much invested on this approach and I am pretty sure I in the end it will look ok.
El Capi and Mirek, please keep the advice flowing as I do find it very helpful.

Here are my short term plans:

• Tonight - I'll complete the officer's quarters frams on the port side
• Tomorrow - Complete tieing the cannon ropes
• Over the weekend end I'd like to do the capstans and place all of eye rings. If I get a chance I'll try to do the railings around the center section

Scott

yes, you may do thing more difficult than they in reality are. some times too much info. can get you confused. a bit the wood. this model can be more than 20 years old or more. I build mine about 2o years ago. the older a kit is- wood the wood can change a lot. as there are no labels on of production date we can be lost. two boxes of the same kit can be very different, as wood is built upon 3 Hugh biochemical product, and can change by age, temperature, moist, seasonally change in weather. just feel free to contact me here or over the private lime- or Messenger and E-mail.
peandersen@telefonica.net.