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My Log (GaryA): The Bounty Build from Plans and Partial Kit from the Lumber yard for Model Shipwrights
Hi all, I have not done much on the model, although I am making steady progress with the frames.
I have to work between the Extension of the Caravan Port, the model of the Bounty, the Garden, and the golf, so to say I am making steady progress is a fair comment.
However, as I go into the build and break down the monotony of the frames, I have taken a short break to make a sliding table for the Proxxon saw.
What has interested me is how to create the grating on the model accurately. So I had a crack at it after following the methods used by Kevin Kenny, as familiar with the best concepts he uses, as I have applied this method when making up interlocking corners on boxes, etc.
I have cut the first groove using a 1.21mm Proxxon off-the-shelf Carbide blade with 20 teeth on a 50 mm diameter. Then I moved to a new saw blade by Proxxon and of less thickness - .50mm, to slice the thickness of the grating pieces off.
I had, of course, no idea what would happen, as I knew it would not be smooth sailing, as I am dealing with very fine cut grooves, roughened up with a saw blade, and expecting something to happen, and it did! The wood I used was Pinus Pinaster, pine grown in the Southern Hemisphere, but originally from the Northern Hemisphere. It has a common name, Maritime Pine.
Here are the results of my labour, and I need some help to determine what type of wood would be a better wood to use, or what I can do to prevent this from happening.
I have to work between the Extension of the Caravan Port, the model of the Bounty, the Garden, and the golf, so to say I am making steady progress is a fair comment.
However, as I go into the build and break down the monotony of the frames, I have taken a short break to make a sliding table for the Proxxon saw.
What has interested me is how to create the grating on the model accurately. So I had a crack at it after following the methods used by Kevin Kenny, as familiar with the best concepts he uses, as I have applied this method when making up interlocking corners on boxes, etc.
I have cut the first groove using a 1.21mm Proxxon off-the-shelf Carbide blade with 20 teeth on a 50 mm diameter. Then I moved to a new saw blade by Proxxon and of less thickness - .50mm, to slice the thickness of the grating pieces off.
I had, of course, no idea what would happen, as I knew it would not be smooth sailing, as I am dealing with very fine cut grooves, roughened up with a saw blade, and expecting something to happen, and it did! The wood I used was Pinus Pinaster, pine grown in the Southern Hemisphere, but originally from the Northern Hemisphere. It has a common name, Maritime Pine.
Here are the results of my labour, and I need some help to determine what type of wood would be a better wood to use, or what I can do to prevent this from happening.
If it works, go for it. Thanks for posting. FWIW I found breakage was a problem doing it this way years ago so went with the old tried and true method I first saw in Bernard Frolich's book, The Art of Ship Modeling. There is no breakage and it accurate in forming the ledges and battens even at the smallest scales we normally see. I'll try to make a sample and photograph the steps along the way and post in the Tricks of the Trade topic here at SoS.
Allan
Allan
Thanks, Allan, that would be great.