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My Log (GaryA): The Bounty Build from Plans and Partial Kit from the Lumber yard for Model Shipwrights
Hi all, I have not done much on the model, although I am making steady progress with the frames.
I have to work between the Extension of the Caravan Port, the model of the Bounty, the Garden, and the golf, so to say I am making steady progress is a fair comment.
However, as I go into the build and break down the monotony of the frames, I have taken a short break to make a sliding table for the Proxxon saw.
What has interested me is how to create the grating on the model accurately. So I had a crack at it after following the methods used by Kevin Kenny, as familiar with the best concepts he uses, as I have applied this method when making up interlocking corners on boxes, etc.
I have cut the first groove using a 1.21mm Proxxon off-the-shelf Carbide blade with 20 teeth on a 50 mm diameter. Then I moved to a new saw blade by Proxxon and of less thickness - .50mm, to slice the thickness of the grating pieces off.
I had, of course, no idea what would happen, as I knew it would not be smooth sailing, as I am dealing with very fine cut grooves, roughened up with a saw blade, and expecting something to happen, and it did! The wood I used was Pinus Pinaster, pine grown in the Southern Hemisphere, but originally from the Northern Hemisphere. It has a common name, Maritime Pine.
Here are the results of my labour, and I need some help to determine what type of wood would be a better wood to use, or what I can do to prevent this from happening.
I have to work between the Extension of the Caravan Port, the model of the Bounty, the Garden, and the golf, so to say I am making steady progress is a fair comment.
However, as I go into the build and break down the monotony of the frames, I have taken a short break to make a sliding table for the Proxxon saw.
What has interested me is how to create the grating on the model accurately. So I had a crack at it after following the methods used by Kevin Kenny, as familiar with the best concepts he uses, as I have applied this method when making up interlocking corners on boxes, etc.
I have cut the first groove using a 1.21mm Proxxon off-the-shelf Carbide blade with 20 teeth on a 50 mm diameter. Then I moved to a new saw blade by Proxxon and of less thickness - .50mm, to slice the thickness of the grating pieces off.
I had, of course, no idea what would happen, as I knew it would not be smooth sailing, as I am dealing with very fine cut grooves, roughened up with a saw blade, and expecting something to happen, and it did! The wood I used was Pinus Pinaster, pine grown in the Southern Hemisphere, but originally from the Northern Hemisphere. It has a common name, Maritime Pine.
Here are the results of my labour, and I need some help to determine what type of wood would be a better wood to use, or what I can do to prevent this from happening.
If it works, go for it. Thanks for posting. FWIW I found breakage was a problem doing it this way years ago so went with the old tried and true method I first saw in Bernard Frolich's book, The Art of Ship Modeling. There is no breakage and it accurate in forming the ledges and battens even at the smallest scales we normally see. I'll try to make a sample and photograph the steps along the way and post in the Tricks of the Trade topic here at SoS.
Allan
Allan
Thanks, Allan, that would be great.
So, fellow Shipwrights, I have come up with an explanation which I hope you all can follow. Please be free to comment. BTW, I did the same for AllanKP69 " Tricks of the trade" site. I want to keep a detailed method I use to carry out the making of the grating on my log as well.
Also, the first 2 pics show the extrusions face up, but I think you are well aware they are lying flat on the saw surface for the saw to cut the grooves mentioned with the explanation.
Here is the material with the grooves cut....
Then I turn the material to 90 degrees to do this cut again, at half the depth on the groove side....
Then, I turn and do this cut across the grooves. This again only cut halfway through.
THEN..
I turn the piece over and perform the last cut to produce the Strip.
I will add that this is Pinus Pinaster, or commonly known as Maritime Pine in Europe.
I am finding it a challenge, but the more strips I produce, the fewer extrusion problems. BTW, with the right tools, it is quite easy to replace missing extrusion pieces from the strips, but I wait until the whole grating has been made to show you what I do and the tools I have to carry out the repairs.
Here is the Saw blade I am using on the Proxxon.
You can see the teeth have no angle on them, ideal for making grooves in wood, square at the bottom. This saw blade had to be bought separately, as the new saw only comes with a slitting-type blade.
Also, the first 2 pics show the extrusions face up, but I think you are well aware they are lying flat on the saw surface for the saw to cut the grooves mentioned with the explanation.
Here is the material with the grooves cut....
Then I turn the material to 90 degrees to do this cut again, at half the depth on the groove side....
Then, I turn and do this cut across the grooves. This again only cut halfway through.
THEN..
I turn the piece over and perform the last cut to produce the Strip.
I will add that this is Pinus Pinaster, or commonly known as Maritime Pine in Europe.
I am finding it a challenge, but the more strips I produce, the fewer extrusion problems. BTW, with the right tools, it is quite easy to replace missing extrusion pieces from the strips, but I wait until the whole grating has been made to show you what I do and the tools I have to carry out the repairs.
Here is the Saw blade I am using on the Proxxon.
You can see the teeth have no angle on them, ideal for making grooves in wood, square at the bottom. This saw blade had to be bought separately, as the new saw only comes with a slitting-type blade.
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