He has been patient so far...but he is looking over my shoulder!
NORSKE LOVE - Billing Boats 1:75 scale
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Thank you very much Heinrich for your kind words and support. It was a long time coming...and now I can't seem to stop workign on it! LOL
Someone asked me how I cut my openings so clean and precise…so I will share my personal approach.
After framing out the opening and planking around it…
Then I start carving away material…first with a vertical cut to prevent splitting…
Then I cut at angle to intersect the vertical cut…
Then I continue with this working my way down…
Then I stop shy of the bottom because I want to leave material to be filed and avoid getting into the corners yet…
Next I file the remaining material flush with the sides and bottom staying away from the corners…
Now the corners are left untouched so far…that way I can cut them last with the knife to ensure a sharp corner with no undercuts…
Then I clean up any burrs with fine sandpaper…
The end result is a square opening with sharp corners and smooth edges…
That’s my method, there may be faster ways of getting there, but the main factors are:
Cutting close while staying away from the corners
Then file flush staying away from the corners
And finally cutting the sharp corners with a knife last.
Then it’s just fine sanding the edges.
Happy modeling!
After framing out the opening and planking around it…
Then I start carving away material…first with a vertical cut to prevent splitting…
Then I cut at angle to intersect the vertical cut…
Then I continue with this working my way down…
Then I stop shy of the bottom because I want to leave material to be filed and avoid getting into the corners yet…
Next I file the remaining material flush with the sides and bottom staying away from the corners…
Now the corners are left untouched so far…that way I can cut them last with the knife to ensure a sharp corner with no undercuts…
Then I clean up any burrs with fine sandpaper…
The end result is a square opening with sharp corners and smooth edges…
That’s my method, there may be faster ways of getting there, but the main factors are:
Cutting close while staying away from the corners
Then file flush staying away from the corners
And finally cutting the sharp corners with a knife last.
Then it’s just fine sanding the edges.
Happy modeling!
Last edited:
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Extensive and clear description of your process. Usable for everyone, even with a basic toolset.Someone asked me how I cut my openings so clean and precise…so I will share my personal approach.
After framing out the opening and planking around it…
View attachment 363406
Then I start carving away material…first with a vertical cut to prevent splitting…
View attachment 363407
Then I cut at angle to intersect the vertical cut…
View attachment 363408
Then I continue with this working my way down…
View attachment 363409View attachment 363410
Then I stop shy of the bottom because I want to leave material to be filed and avoid getting into the corners yet…
View attachment 363411
Next I file the remaining material flush with the sides and bottom staying away from the corners…
View attachment 363412View attachment 363413View attachment 363414
Now the corners are left untouched so far…that way I can cut them last with the knife to ensure a sharp corner with no undercuts…
View attachment 363416
Then I clean up any burrs with fine sandpaper…
View attachment 363417
The end result is a square opening with sharp corners and smooth edges…
View attachment 363418View attachment 363419
That’s my method, there may be faster ways of getting there, but the main factors are:
Cutting close while staying away from the corners
Then file flush staying away from the corners
And finally cutting the sharp corners with a knife last.
Then it’s just fine sanding the edges.
Happy modeling!
That’s all I use…x-acto knife, file and sandpaper.Extensive and clear description of your process. Usable for everyone, even with a basic toolset.
First railing on this side…
And the gopher says…
And the gopher says…
Next was the start of lower rail and the scroll…
Making progress…a little at a time!
Making progress…a little at a time!
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Progress is progress, however small the steps are…Next was the start of lower rail and the scroll…
View attachment 363480View attachment 363481View attachment 363482View attachment 363484
Making progress…a little at a time!
Beautiful work Dean, you are doing a wonderful job.
... well, it is about cutting corners
Thank you Peter!
True!
I try to do a little every day.Thank you Roger!
Last!!!... well, it is about cutting corners
Thank you! I try, but sometimes fall short.
I hate typing, but this will need to be told…
This is filed under the chapter “Lessons Learned”.
On the other side, when doing the upper railing at the stern, I had 9 vertical posts to make and glue in place. They are very small at 3mm x 3mm x 10mm tall. Problem is keeping the ends flat and square, and gluing them plumb and equally spaced! I first glued them to the top rail after marking the locations. Then I painted the bottom of the top rail red, the top of the bottom rail red, and finally the square posts gold. Then I glued the upper rail and posts to the bottom rail. This was so I could easily turn the upper rail with posts in my hand to paint 4 sides of the posts and edges. Doing it on the ship would mean trying to spin the ship around while painting. Not the better method with 9 posts and 4 sides each!
So what went wrong? The posts were not completely plumb, and @Jimsky pointed out that one post was not aligned with the others. Thanks Jimsky for having my back. But that meant breaking it loose with needle nose pliers, making a new one and gluing and painting…sigh.
So on this side, I decided to devise a method to ensure the posts were evenly spaced and plumb.
So I marked and cut 9 3mm square openings into the lower upper rail. There is another board that goes on top, as they are doubled.
I cut an outline with the x-acto and then used the Proxxon rotary tool with a dental burr to remove material. Then I used a mini file to finish.
And that was glued onto the ship after the posts were glued in…and painting was done…
Then the upper rail was soaked and bent, and clamped until dried. I hate lateral bends with wide boards!
Then that was glued on, and the curved end of the upper rail made and glued on.
There is still finish work, like sanding to do prior to finishing painting. So it’s still in the ugly stage! But at least all the posts are plumb!
Happy modeling!!!
This is filed under the chapter “Lessons Learned”.
On the other side, when doing the upper railing at the stern, I had 9 vertical posts to make and glue in place. They are very small at 3mm x 3mm x 10mm tall. Problem is keeping the ends flat and square, and gluing them plumb and equally spaced! I first glued them to the top rail after marking the locations. Then I painted the bottom of the top rail red, the top of the bottom rail red, and finally the square posts gold. Then I glued the upper rail and posts to the bottom rail. This was so I could easily turn the upper rail with posts in my hand to paint 4 sides of the posts and edges. Doing it on the ship would mean trying to spin the ship around while painting. Not the better method with 9 posts and 4 sides each!
So what went wrong? The posts were not completely plumb, and @Jimsky pointed out that one post was not aligned with the others. Thanks Jimsky for having my back. But that meant breaking it loose with needle nose pliers, making a new one and gluing and painting…sigh.
So on this side, I decided to devise a method to ensure the posts were evenly spaced and plumb.
So I marked and cut 9 3mm square openings into the lower upper rail. There is another board that goes on top, as they are doubled.
I cut an outline with the x-acto and then used the Proxxon rotary tool with a dental burr to remove material. Then I used a mini file to finish.
And that was glued onto the ship after the posts were glued in…and painting was done…
Then the upper rail was soaked and bent, and clamped until dried. I hate lateral bends with wide boards!
Then that was glued on, and the curved end of the upper rail made and glued on.
There is still finish work, like sanding to do prior to finishing painting. So it’s still in the ugly stage! But at least all the posts are plumb!
Happy modeling!!!
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...the redo is well worth doing, mon ami!! I am glad you went this route at earlier stages of your build. I also like the jig to make them align and plumb. My teacher told me once: If you have to do the tasks in repetition - it is a good candidate to make a jig.
Thanks, I agree it’s worth it to do the extra work and to make a jig!
True story
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Then the upper rail was soaked and bent, and clamped until dried. I hate lateral bends with wide boards!
I hate lateral or edge bending with veneer strips.....
love the devider for the posts. I used this once as a template. I made a similar devider but cut the sides out, so I could remove the devider after the glue up.
Nice work and a nice recovery to do it better than before.
