Pocher 1:8 scale Porsche 917K

I finished the injector tubing! I think it turned out very well. My tubing brackets on the sides of the fan shroud worked as planned and helped keep the tubing runs tidy. I saw something similar on the actual car. If I had to do it again, I would have added a few of these on each side prior to assembly. ;)
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Note the tubing going around the fan shroud.
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Other side…
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I’m going to add a roll bar on the motor side of the chassis and then I am ready to start assembly of the dash and steering wheel. Because the next phase of the build focuses on the front part of the car.
 
Dean62 said:
I finished the injector tubing! I think it turned out very well. My tubing brackets on the sides of the fan shroud worked as planned and helped keep the tubing runs tidy. I saw something similar on the actual car. If I had to do it again, I would have added a few of these on each side prior to assembly. ;)
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Note the tubing going around the fan shroud.
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Other side…
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I’m going to add a roll bar on the motor side of the chassis and then I am ready to start assembly of the dash and steering wheel. Because the next phase of the build focuses on the front part of the car.
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Fore sure those little brackets where needed and you made them nicely scaled, Dean.
Regards, Peter
 
Beautiful job!

Because race cars are constantly being tuned, tweaked and worked on, the engines are usually pretty accessible. This one must be an absolute bear to work on with all that bracing surrounding it.

BTW, do you ever sleep? SleepROTF
 
Your detail painting is just next level stuff Dean. Like Russ said on the real thing everything is so congested I don't know how one could even stick their little finger in beyond the tubing frame anywhere.
 
Peter Voogt said:
Fore sure those little brackets where needed and you made them nicely scaled, Dean.
Regards, Peter
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Thank you Peter. I wish I had discovered the need sooner...hindsight! :)
RussF said:
Beautiful job!

Because race cars are constantly being tuned, tweaked and worked on, the engines are usually pretty accessible. This one must be an absolute bear to work on with all that bracing surrounding it.

BTW, do you ever sleep? SleepROTF
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Thank you! I do put in a few late nights...evenings are hobby time. ROTF
Daniel20 said:
Your detail painting is just next level stuff Dean. Like Russ said on the real thing everything is so congested I don't know how one could even stick their little finger in beyond the tubing frame anywhere.
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Thank you! It is tight, only when you are 8 times larger than the model it gets really difficult! I am good with tweezers. ;) I have two that I use like hands when fishing lines in tight areas.
 
The roll bar that bolts in place…
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As you can see it’s silver.
The one provided in the kit…
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So I painted it to be correct…
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The sides where it bolts should be a bracket that is welded to the frame. So like the cross brace, they are black and the bolt heads silver.
On the frame…
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This is the last I will be working on this sub assembly until I join it together with the front of the car later in the build. At which point, the gas tank, oil tank, etc. will be added along with many more hoses.
So next will be the dash and steering wheel assembly…
 
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Building the dash and steering mechanism, and the two sides…
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Starting with the dash, as supplied…
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Not bad at all, but the control knobs were not correct, they have a silver ring on the face and the bezels were left black.
So the first thing was to paint the bezels silver, then paint the knobs grey.
Then I painted the gage bezels silver. They were actually black on the car, but I want contrast to make them pop.
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I also painted the indicator lights above the gages silver first, and then put color in the center to look like a silver bezel was around them.
Next was putting on the gage decals.

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A close up above of the knobs redone with silver bezels. I also added a key in the ignition. We have to be race ready. ;)
Then the rest of the parts were painted and assembled…
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I painted the steering wheel silver for contrast, it was black too.
Then it was time to build the two sides, which were all metal and just needed gluing.
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Next step…
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The two sides were screwed to the dash frame and two additional pieces were glued to it.
Then it was time to screw all of that to the lower body panel, which entailed aligning about 10 different things at once. Then you had to try to hold all of that together while putting the screws in…sigh. Not a fun step.
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First the lowers tubular chassis was added. And afterwards the upper front control arms. The control arms are installed with 2 pins each. They were very difficult to get in, but I finally managed!
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Next will be building the gas, brake and clutch pedals.
Then I decided to get a sneak preview of the rear chassis and motor sitting in this assembly…
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In the top view above, there are two compartments above and below the motor. Later these will house the gas tank, fuel pumps, etc. and there will be many tubings and fittings to be plumbed for those to the motor. Can’t wait to see that come together.
Happy modeling!
 
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It’s spring here and that means a lot of chores on the weekends. But I managed to get in some model time.
Next was the pedal assembly…
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That actually went quick…I painted the clutch and brake black and then hit the top edges with sandpaper. I sanded all of the silver paint off of the gas pedal. And I left the dead pedal as provided in silver paint. Also painted the bolts.
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After that was the suspension…
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I didn’t have to paint much, did some weathering on the shock towers…
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The pins were difficult to put in, just like the upper A arm. But it was satisfying once done.
Then the brake discs and calipers were next.
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As provided, everything was painted silver and the one caliper that will have the cooling hose was black plastic.
I turned one rotor…

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I put it in my Proxxon rotary tool and hit it with sand paper while spinning. Looks much better.
With the other parts…
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Next I painted the disc or rotor hub black, and added black in the cross drilled holes to make them stand out more.
Then I painted the calipers red. Most calipers come in black, red, grey and sometimes gold. I chose red for some nice contrast against all the black and silver.
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It was a lot of work, so I only finished one side. Next I will repeat for the other side. ;)
 
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Wow Dean, that looks fantastic! May I ask what type/brand of paint you use? Brush or spray? Multiple coats? Do you have a brush with just one bristle to get some of that fine detail? :D
 
RussF said:
Wow Dean, that looks fantastic! May I ask what type/brand of paint you use? Brush or spray? Multiple coats? Do you have a brush with just one bristle to get some of that fine detail? :D
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Thanks Russ.
I use many different paints, but my go to brand is Vallejo Air paints. They are for airbrushing, but I use them to brush on because they are thinned properly to spray. Most paints are way too thick and leave brush marks unless you thin them accordingly.
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For dry brushing I sometimes use the Tamiya weather master dry brush kit…IMG_7385.jpeg
For washes I like the Quickshade wash paint.
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Depending on what I am painting I typically use multiple thin coats. And I work fast and let the paint puddle to prevent brush marks. If it starts to show brush marks, I quickly run a brush under water and pat excess water out and then brush over the surface with the wet brush to make the paint puddle again. It dries flat every time! That’s the trick to brushing on paint without brush marks. The paint consistency (thin), multiple coats and making the paint puddle on the surface. To speed things up I will hit it with a hair dryer between coats.
I have many fine brushes for detailing…this is my finest…
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And I use these for seeing small detail…
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On the bezels around the knobs on the dash, I paint them first and let the brush ride around the knob as a guide, not worrying about getting paint on the knob, as it will be painted last.
On the instrument panel, when painting small raised surfaces, I use a fine brush and get enough paint so I can lightly touch the surface and it will puddle the paint on and I carefully move the brush around the surface. So I’m not actually brushing it on, but transferring the paint through a wicking process. As soon as it stops transferring, l reload the brush. You don’t want to try to actually brush it on. Hope that makes sense. The key is the proper amount of paint, too much and you make big blob, too little and you will have to brush it on. It takes practice and patience, but once you master it, you can paint tiny raised surfaces very well.
Hope that helps!
 
Thanks for the detailed explanation Dean. I'm still trying to get my head around a "puddle" of paint that dries flat. :confused: I guess the puddle is mostly water.

I haven't built a model car in a long time, but my grandson-in-law expressed an interest in it, so I got him set up for Christmas. When I did build them many years ago, I always used Testors rattle-cans to paint the body. Do you think the Vallejo paints would give a finish that is smooth and glossy enough for a car body, or would you use a topcoat?
 
RussF said:
Thanks for the detailed explanation Dean. I'm still trying to get my head around a "puddle" of paint that dries flat. :confused: I guess the puddle is mostly water.

I haven't built a model car in a long time, but my grandson-in-law expressed an interest in it, so I got him set up for Christmas. When I did build them many years ago, I always used Testors rattle-cans to paint the body. Do you think the Vallejo paints would give a finish that is smooth and glossy enough for a car body, or would you use a topcoat?
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If you brush on paint thin enough it puddles together before it dries. By that I mean there are no ridges from the brush. You can paint larger surfaces the way I described, but an airbrush is always the best for that. Rattle cans are the worst, they spray the paint on too thick and ruin detail. I would only ever use one for the clear coat, but even then you have to be careful. If you want gloss, you can always use a gloss clear coat.
 
Moving forward…I finished the other side brake rotor and caliper assembly.

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Up next…

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The brake reservoirs, etc. and more frame work in the nose…
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Then to make the separation wall for interior …
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As provided…more silver and black…so a lot of painting ahead. Going to paint the wall brushed aluminum and detail the coils and battery cables, etc.
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This doesn’t go on yet, but I wanted to get an idea how it’s going to look. ;)
And now for more parts up front and the seats and seat belts will be after that.
 
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