Absolutely superb ! Great skill and talent.
Tis a thing of beauty.
Tis a thing of beauty.
Thanks Bill
Thank you very much!
Rear axle assemblies finished…
Next is the rear suspension on the drivers side and attaching the sway bar on this side.
The parts as provided…
I will paint the caliper red, turn the brake disc after gluing the halves together, and add detail to the remaining parts, there is one part not shown here.
I used two plastic discs to hold the brake rotor in the Proxxon rotary tool.
There is another one under the brake disc.
Then I turned the rotor and sanded the silver paint off. Then the hub was painted black and the cross drilled holes were painted.
And finally after finishing all the parts I was able to add the rear axle assembly and the parts to complete the rear suspension on the drivers side.
A view looking to see the rear axle assembly…
You can see it between the coil and the cooling duct. 
The other side will be a repeat of this side.
Next is the rear suspension on the drivers side and attaching the sway bar on this side.
The parts as provided…
I will paint the caliper red, turn the brake disc after gluing the halves together, and add detail to the remaining parts, there is one part not shown here.
I used two plastic discs to hold the brake rotor in the Proxxon rotary tool.
There is another one under the brake disc.
Then I turned the rotor and sanded the silver paint off. Then the hub was painted black and the cross drilled holes were painted.
And finally after finishing all the parts I was able to add the rear axle assembly and the parts to complete the rear suspension on the drivers side.
A view looking to see the rear axle assembly…
You can see it between the coil and the cooling duct. The other side will be a repeat of this side.
And the other side rear suspension and brakes…
I learned from the other side one F screw should be a G screw.
Assembled…
And some overall pics of current progress…
Next will be the rear fender skirts and tail lights or brake lights.
Not long ago I had a transmission to start with!
I learned from the other side one F screw should be a G screw.
Assembled…
And some overall pics of current progress…
Next will be the rear fender skirts and tail lights or brake lights.
Not long ago I had a transmission to start with!
Step 23…
Adding the rear fender skirts, struts and tail lights…
Next I have to add decals to the front of the car. Then it’s time to start building the body.
Adding the rear fender skirts, struts and tail lights…
Next I have to add decals to the front of the car. Then it’s time to start building the body.
Hi Dean, I had a passing thought...what is the brake rotor made of? Any chance they painted that part to avoid long term rust/corrosion, and you have now exposed the metal to the elements?
Hi Paul, I had considered that too, however my Lotus 72 is still rust free and it was completed in June of 2023.
So I am going to assume it’s fine. But I did some research…
That’s the breakdown for Pocher kits. As you know, zinc alloy is fairly corrosion resistant, not as much as stainless, but not being exposed to any harsh environments in my house, it should be fine in my humble opinion.
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Good to hear that you've thought about and looked into it.Hi Paul, I had considered that too, however my Lotus 72 is still rust free and it was completed in June of 2023.
View attachment 509336
That’s the breakdown for Pocher kits. As you know, zinc alloy is fairly corrosion resistant, not as much as stainless, but not being exposed to any harsh environments in my house, it should be fine in my humble opinion.
Rear axle assemblies finished…
View attachment 509058
Next is the rear suspension on the drivers side and attaching the sway bar on this side.
View attachment 509059
The parts as provided…
View attachment 509060
I will paint the caliper red, turn the brake disc after gluing the halves together, and add detail to the remaining parts, there is one part not shown here.
I used two plastic discs to hold the brake rotor in the Proxxon rotary tool.
View attachment 509061
There is another one under the brake disc.
Then I turned the rotor and sanded the silver paint off. Then the hub was painted black and the cross drilled holes were painted.
And finally after finishing all the parts I was able to add the rear axle assembly and the parts to complete the rear suspension on the drivers side.
View attachment 509063
A view looking to see the rear axle assembly…
View attachment 509064You can see it between the coil and the cooling duct.
The other side will be a repeat of this side.
The brakes looks much better now, Dean. Especially the discs are very realistic.And the other side rear suspension and brakes…
View attachment 509198
I learned from the other side one F screw should be a G screw.
Assembled…
View attachment 509199
View attachment 509203
And some overall pics of current progress…
View attachment 509200View attachment 509201View attachment 509202
Next will be the rear fender skirts and tail lights or brake lights.
Not long ago I had a transmission to start with!
Regards, Peter
I would hate to tackle one of this type of kit. There's absolutely nowhere to hide. Not only would a single scratch, smear or fingerprint 
eek completely ruin the effect but every viewer is an expert on what it's supposed to look like. I think the only thing more difficult to pull off would be the face of a well known celebrity.
So take a bow, Dean, because the only reason I'm certain that it's a model is the presence of the cutting board. Top job!
eek completely ruin the effect but every viewer is an expert on what it's supposed to look like. I think the only thing more difficult to pull off would be the face of a well known celebrity.So take a bow, Dean, because the only reason I'm certain that it's a model is the presence of the cutting board. Top job!
Thank you, I appreciate that. I’m trying my best to make it look realistic and not like a model.I would hate to tackle one of this type of kit. There's absolutely nowhere to hide. Not only would a single scratch, smear or fingerprint
So take a bow, Dean, because the only reason I'm certain that it's a model is the presence of the cutting board. Top job!
Sometimes it’s two steps forward and one step backwards. I realized the tail lights should have a silver bezel and there are two mounting screws that need to be painted per light.
Reference photo…
Corrected model…
Then I noticed there should be some bolts on the rear fender skirts, so I added those…
I also realized the wheel hubs all have to be tapped to mount the wheels after the body is assembled. So I did that as well.
Now to add the decals to the front of the body on the next step. Then the assembly of the body begins.
Reference photo…
Corrected model…
Then I noticed there should be some bolts on the rear fender skirts, so I added those…
I also realized the wheel hubs all have to be tapped to mount the wheels after the body is assembled. So I did that as well.
Now to add the decals to the front of the body on the next step. Then the assembly of the body begins.
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Now for the decals…I see why they didn’t paint it or do it for you!
Decal wd-7 goes on first, because it has to line up with the scoop and then wd-8 lines up with it, but it has a flap or triangular tongue that folds down into the scoop.
When trying to apply it, I realized it was one piece! Yikes! I had to put it back on the backing paper and cut it with an xacto knife and hope it didn’t tear. Then I tried to line it up and realized until the top of decal was set good, you can’t fold the tongue down or it wants to pull the rest of the decal and cause issues. Once I finally got it in position and flattened out, then I got a paint brush and brushed the tongue down into the middle of the lower scoop.
There is no way the other three tiny decals were going to cooperate and blend in without overlapping edges causing issues. So I decided to paint the sides and face.
The right side above…
The left side above…
And the face above…
Those were all painted to blend into the decal above and below. I feel this would most likely yield the best result.
Now for the most important view…
It all lines up and looks proper. So I survived this part! Whew! It’s harder than it looks.
Then was the hood…
This one wasn’t too bad, it wanted to wrinkle when folded over the curve, but I was able to work it out until it was flat.
Then I noticed the pull pin rings were not painted. So I painted them silver…
Another fun task.
And finally all together…
So that concludes step 24.
Next on step 25…
I already added the roll bar and the tops of the transmission cooling ducts. I also added the bracket for the rear lift bar. So all I have to do is assemble the spare and make the straps for it.
See you then…
Decal wd-7 goes on first, because it has to line up with the scoop and then wd-8 lines up with it, but it has a flap or triangular tongue that folds down into the scoop.
When trying to apply it, I realized it was one piece! Yikes! I had to put it back on the backing paper and cut it with an xacto knife and hope it didn’t tear. Then I tried to line it up and realized until the top of decal was set good, you can’t fold the tongue down or it wants to pull the rest of the decal and cause issues. Once I finally got it in position and flattened out, then I got a paint brush and brushed the tongue down into the middle of the lower scoop.
There is no way the other three tiny decals were going to cooperate and blend in without overlapping edges causing issues. So I decided to paint the sides and face.
The right side above…
The left side above…
And the face above…
Those were all painted to blend into the decal above and below. I feel this would most likely yield the best result.
Now for the most important view…
It all lines up and looks proper. So I survived this part! Whew! It’s harder than it looks.
Then was the hood…
This one wasn’t too bad, it wanted to wrinkle when folded over the curve, but I was able to work it out until it was flat.
Then I noticed the pull pin rings were not painted. So I painted them silver…
Another fun task.
And finally all together…
So that concludes step 24.
Next on step 25…
I already added the roll bar and the tops of the transmission cooling ducts. I also added the bracket for the rear lift bar. So all I have to do is assemble the spare and make the straps for it.
See you then…
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I decided to set the front of the body on and get a sneak preview. Wow! It looks so cool! Getting excited!
Soon I will be assembling the body - the doors, grille, vent ducts, head lights, glass, etc. I can’t wait. Then it is put on the chassis and the wheels are last.
Soon I will be assembling the body - the doors, grille, vent ducts, head lights, glass, etc. I can’t wait. Then it is put on the chassis and the wheels are last.
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Finishing up step 25…
The instructions are a bit ambiguous on the spare tire straps. So I used an online reference…
Even thought it’s a bit different, I knew how the straps should come together.
I scuffed the tire tread just enough to make it more noticeable.
I wish the joint where the belts come together would have been a little cleaner, as I had to use more glue than I preferred. I think if I hit that area with some clear polyurethane it will help with the overall look. Then it’s time to start on the body assembly.
I can always remove the spare. I thought of leaving it off in the first place. There were many times the car was raced without a spare or passenger seat to reduce weight. The kit is modeled after the car Jo Siffert and Derek Bell drove to win the 1971 Monza 1000km. And they were running with a spare and passenger seat. So to match the plaque that comes with the kit, I decided to honor that.
And finally without my work light, this is how it will be viewed in ambient light.
In which case it seems to be passable. But I’m a real stickler for details, and little stuff drives me to drink!
The instructions are a bit ambiguous on the spare tire straps. So I used an online reference…
Even thought it’s a bit different, I knew how the straps should come together.
I scuffed the tire tread just enough to make it more noticeable.
I wish the joint where the belts come together would have been a little cleaner, as I had to use more glue than I preferred. I think if I hit that area with some clear polyurethane it will help with the overall look. Then it’s time to start on the body assembly.
I can always remove the spare. I thought of leaving it off in the first place. There were many times the car was raced without a spare or passenger seat to reduce weight. The kit is modeled after the car Jo Siffert and Derek Bell drove to win the 1971 Monza 1000km. And they were running with a spare and passenger seat. So to match the plaque that comes with the kit, I decided to honor that.
And finally without my work light, this is how it will be viewed in ambient light.
In which case it seems to be passable. But I’m a real stickler for details, and little stuff drives me to drink!
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Step 26…
Not a lot going on, mainly the doors and the upper front chassis.
I painted the release buttons on the doors silver, as they were not painted.
The next step is a big step, a lot of parts will be going on.
Not a lot going on, mainly the doors and the upper front chassis.
I painted the release buttons on the doors silver, as they were not painted.
The next step is a big step, a lot of parts will be going on.
As a detail lover: The straps for that spare tyre looks very good, Dean.Finishing up step 25…
View attachment 509790
The instructions are a bit ambiguous on the spare tire straps. So I used an online reference…
View attachment 509791
Even thought it’s a bit different, I knew how the straps should come together.
View attachment 509792View attachment 509793
I scuffed the tire tread just enough to make it more noticeable.
I wish the joint where the belts come together would have been a little cleaner, as I had to use more glue than I preferred. I think if I hit that area with some clear polyurethane it will help with the overall look. Then it’s time to start on the body assembly.
I can always remove the spare. I thought of leaving it off in the first place. There were many times the car was raced without a spare or passenger seat to reduce weight. The kit is modeled after the car Jo Siffert and Derek Bell drove to win the 1971 Monza 1000km. And they were running with a spare and passenger seat. So to match the plaque that comes with the kit, I decided to honor that.
And finally without my work light, this is how it will be viewed in ambient light.
View attachment 509798
In which case it seems to be passable.
Please, not too many details at once in a evening ………. It will make you drunk ……...But I’m a real stickler for details, and little stuff drives me to drink!
Regards, Peter