How do I remove the incorrect E-2 seaman from below my name and enter a jpg of my E-5 PT-2?????
Are you a prior Navy person>
Ranks listed here under your aviator are based mostly on number of messages you have posted.
They are not reflective of personnel military rank.
As a retired USAF E-7 I understand the rank title issues.
And a thanks for your service!
Hi PT-2,
The ranking system is just a FUN ranking system that is solely created to rank members that have n+1 number of posts. As the number of posts that you make or respond to then your SOS ranking will change. The badges are NOT based on any personal service in the Military you have done.
I appreciate the going back to Boot Camp approach to earn the stripes.Are you a prior Navy person>
Ranks listed here under your aviator are based mostly on number of messages you have posted.
They are not reflective of personnel military rank.
As a retired USAF E-7 I understand the rank title issues.
And a thanks for your service!
I would like to see the Rope WalkI made a rope walk for the proper scale
Here are a a series of rather poor photos of my ropewalk. I show the two components made as found on a YouTube search of wood and coat hanger wire: sliding or "sled" end to tie all three sets of strands with a weighted tension and friction base of sandpaper; the other fixed or twising end to receive the sets of threads and the rotating handle on the back for initial twising of threads and then with a brush comb to separate them into the three sets the sliding guide is applied and the desired handed twisting by totating the fixed end begins. . . working to achieve a 45 degree lay as the twisting continues. When done, whip each end to hold the hawser or cable lay in place. The use of heavy string was to illustrate the process and resulted in a line of about 5mm or 3/26 dia. I have made lines of many variations from size of starting thread, and number of lays back and forth for each strand experimenting from two to five but three is correct. If you upsize this you can make actual rope using jute twine from the box store. Two photos in the series are out of order as I put the brush comb to separate the three strands in place, holding it with a rubber band, before the sliding guide is put in place and the final twisting begins.I will have to borrow my wife's camera as I have had zilch luck in downloading photos from my Iphone. It is simple to make with some spare wood and coat hangers that I found Googling up ropewalks. I also use a painters brush comb to separate the three twisted strands when twisting either the right hand clockwise cable or left hand counter-clockwise hawser lines. The number and size of the intial threads that are walked back and forth determine the diameter of the final product. There are a lot of YouTube videos about rope walks and rope making that I saw and consider in making my own. I have been doing this on the front of my desk with two pencile trays pulled out to produce lines of about 48 inches but with greater separation of the two end pieces any length could be produces. I'll post some photos in the next day or two.
You have the general idea: first tie the end of one thread to the left sled end and "walk" it right to the "crank" looping it over one hook and back to the sled then lastly back to the crank and tie it off. Do this again for the other two crank hooks. Next put the brush comb between the three strands. You may have to fasten it in place so that it does nor rotate. The direction of the first twisting depends upon the hand of your final line but turn the crank handle until the threads have 45 degree overlay. Next I place the sliding separating stick between the three twisted strands before removing the brush comb. When then starting the crank again it should be in the direction that will overlay the hand of the three threads, locking them in place. As you turn that crank with the right hand slide the dividing stick slowly to the right only as fast as you see the lines behind it overlaying in a 45 degree manner. This should be in a slow continuous process until you reach the right crank side. Then with anothe piece of line whip the hawser or cable that you produced to hold the strands in place. Do the same on the sliding sled end and everything willl remain in place and you can cut the ends off.ok, so the 'thing' that has the three notches, I think they call that 'the top' - soooo. I assume that you insert that 'top' manually at the start (after the lines are twisted, then you must be sliding 'the top' along to the other end (where the crank is) and that is what combines all the three lines together? For some reason, I am having difficulty visualizing this - may be a video might help.
If this is the case, then how many times do you know how much to crank the three lines 'before' you insert 'the top that has the three notches' ???
I did not answer your question: I insert the top before starting the final twisting with the right side crank. Same as on the YouTube video from Visby but I don't turn anyting from the left/sled side.ok, so the 'thing' that has the three notches, I think they call that 'the top' - soooo. I assume that you insert that 'top' manually at the start (after the lines are twisted, then you must be sliding 'the top' along to the other end (where the crank is) and that is what combines all the three lines together? For some reason, I am having difficulty visualizing this - may be a video might help.
If this is the case, then how many times do you know how much to crank the three lines 'before' you insert 'the top that has the three notches' ???