Purchased shortly ago / sthg new in your workshop -> present it here

ConsNZ said:
Not sure I will ever use this but had to make one because it intrigued me as well as the product and shipping price(s) etc.
So inspired by Grant on using left over bits n pieces and Steef66 (don't buy it, make it) an afternoon was spent putting this together, wishing I had better tools and for that matter a proper workshop. Okay! admittedly, it was great sitting out back enjoying the warmth of our winter sun. Trial was with a piece of gardening string and Guttermen thread. Seems to work ok, well good enough for me considering I may never actually serve any ship rigging in the future.

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You did a great job, looks good. And you will discover there are more rigging stuff you can do on this tool.
 
Steef66 said:
You did a great job, looks good. And you will discover there are more rigging stuff you can do on this tool.
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Thank you very much for your encouraging compliment. You are correct in many ways. Already I see small modifications and Yes, I've tried various rope things mostly failures due to clumsy fingers but one never knows unless one tries. Cheers and again thank you.
 
Peglegreg said:
G'day mate
I've got a Ryobi scroll saw and it's great. The results that I'm getting looks like it almost was cut on a table saw.
The secret is to go slow and at median speed with a very tight blade. And the top foot rest helps a lot.
Here is a photo of it.
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This is a cheap version compared to others.
Happymodeling
Greg
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I also have a ryobi that I am happy with
 
I got a deal on a used Jarmac 9x12 table saw since I couldn’t afford the $4,250.00 for the Byrnes Jim saw that just sold on eBay… Redface
My plan is to hopefully use it as a rip saw (since my FET seems useless for that :mad:).
It came with a saw blade that I suspect is for metal or came cutting as the teeth have zero set.
I ordered a 4” saw blade that should be here at the end of the week. I’m just wondering what type of blade others use. Carbide, HSS, tooth count, etc.

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OlivierF said:
I got a deal on a used Jarmac 9x12 table saw since I couldn’t afford the $4,250.00 for the Byrnes Jim saw that just sold on eBay… Redface
My plan is to hopefully use it as a rip saw (since my FET seems useless for that :mad:).
It came with a saw blade that I suspect is for metal or came cutting as the teeth have zero set.
I ordered a 4” saw blade that should be here at the end of the week. I’m just wondering what type of blade others use. Carbide, HSS, tooth count, etc.

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I don't have a table saw, but I have a band saw. The blade I use is dependent on the work I'm doing. If I'm doing small delicate cuts, I'm using a blade with a very high tooth count per inch. For thick, re-saw cuts, I'm using a thicker blade with a lower tooth count per inch. Since the cut is through thicker material, the larger gullet (the gap between the teeth) allow the blade to carry away more sawdust.
 
Corsair said:
I don't have a table saw, but I have a band saw. The blade I use is dependent on the work I'm doing. If I'm doing small delicate cuts, I'm using a blade with a very high tooth count per inch. For thick, re-saw cuts, I'm using a thicker blade with a lower tooth count per inch. Since the cut is through thicker material, the larger gullet (the gap between the teeth) allow the blade to carry away more sawdust.
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Thanks Jeff. I do the same on the bandsaw as well as my 10” tablesaw. Since I’m planning to use this as a rip saw I ordered a 24 tooth carbide blade. I was just curious what other mini table saw users are using to get the best results.
 
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OlivierF said:
Since I’m planing to use this as a rip saw I ordered a 24 tooth carbide blade. I was just curious what other mini table saw users are using to get the best results.
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Unless you are working in a production environment blade quality and tooth-count are more important than tooth material since you are unlikely to run your saw for more than the occasional hour. A good carbide saw ripping softwood continuously will need changing every hundred hours of use or so, a high-speed steel one would probably last 20 hours doing the same work. A more recent problem is that quality manufacturers like Quinn have given up making anything but carbide or diamond sawblades, and the art of making steel sawblades that would leave a super-smooth - almost polished - cut in even fibrous timbers has been to a large extent lost.
 
I purchased a leather grinding wheel. Because I strop my knives and chisels with that. I use a green bar to polish the knife and this makes it sharp. I used a piece of wood with a piece of leather attached to it. There are YouTube video's that explain this. An example of such a sharpening you can see here:
Let me tell you, when you do it right, your knife gets sharper then a new X-blade. But it is a lot of work and you must take your time doing it. When you hold your knife wrong it can make your knife dull.
The solution is a honing wheel.
expensive and for those small knives and chisels we use a bit overtaken.
I bought a small one on Aliexpress for 9 Euro
LINK
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And that works fantastic. You can use it in your drill or like I did a small 775DC motor I got in my drawer.

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After a few second of use on my whittling knife it is so sharp, it cuts through cherry wood like a knife through butter. So if you need a sharp knife buy one.

The green paste I use

LINK

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Jack Sparrow said:
Got everything working. Computer is talking to printer, finally, via a Raspberry Pi printer server and Octoprint, which is how I interface with the Raspberry Pi printer server.
Now I have to figure out how to get the PLA to stick to the bloody pad. I have been toying with this thing for the past week and I cannot get it to stick. I'll have to check the literature.
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I have the opposite problem, Some of my models are stuck to the plate so bad I can hardly remove them... Creality is coming out with Ender 3 V3 in September, lets hope they get their act together and include some kind of connectivity. I would gladly pay an extra 50 for at least a LAN connection. WIFI would be better,
 
Bob sav said:
I have the opposite problem, Some of my models are stuck to the plate so bad I can hardly remove them... Creality is coming out with Ender 3 V3 in September, lets hope they get their act together and include some kind of connectivity. I would gladly pay an extra 50 for at least a LAN connection. WIFI would be better,
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In order to get the filament to stick, I switched to a glass pad. Seems to work very well.
Agree with you about paying an extra 50 for connectivity. I wonder if the later models have this resolved?
 
I like these small parcels receiving - just got some new cutters, 100 blades, brushes, and fibre-glass erasers .......
You can never have enough of these stuff, especially when you are not able to keep an order on the working table -> so it is good to have 3 or 4 cutters (somewhere) on the table

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Anybody remember these things?IMG_20240708_183450.jpg
Bought this in the early 70's when my tool acumen consisted of a hammer, a few screwdrivers, and a circular saw...and my wife and I were just starting out. Anyway, it worked well as a table saw and router table with the tool secured from underneath (it also has a blade guard). The jigsaw was just as easy to use by hand. The fence (not shown) is unique having one straight aluminum face while other side has an adjustable after-cut metal fence piece to make up the width when using the router as an edge planer. It lives with the 9" bandsaw in the shop. Anyway, I'm thinking a 4 or 5" portable trim saw bolted underneath with zero clearance insert would be a decent hack tool to have around. Small routers are always available...and the whole thing folds up! Just thinking out loud.
 
Farmboy said:
Anybody remember these things?View attachment 458036
Bought this in the early 70's when my tool acumen consisted of a hammer, a few screwdrivers, and a circular saw...and my wife and I were just starting out. Anyway, it worked well as a table saw and router table with the tool secured from underneath (it also has a blade guard). The jigsaw was just as easy to use by hand. The fence (not shown) is unique having one straight aluminum face while other side has an adjustable after-cut metal fence piece to make up the width when using the router as an edge planer. It lives with the 9" bandsaw in the shop. Anyway, I'm thinking a 4 or 5" portable trim saw bolted underneath with zero clearance insert would be a decent hack tool to have around. Small routers are always available...and the whole thing folds up! Just thinking out loud.
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The trim saw idea is great. Put a switched outlet on the side of the table. Those little things have plenty of power. A well made zero clearance blade insert and your ready to go. The best part is you can shove it a corner and just bring it out when needed,
 
Hi Bob. Forgot to mention the table has a plug box with on/off switch, a full width hip bar allows one to turn the tool off when your hands are busy.
 
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