Rattlesnake 1/48 - Harold M Hahn

Norway said:
@ bluebeard, the problem is that the large space is in a cold garage, indoors there is less space, and not so good with too much sawdust / dust.
Another problem is that the materials change in temperature and different humidity, sometime in the future I want a workshop where everything is under one roof and an even temperature.
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in one word - paradise ;)
 
Norway said:
Pictures of all the parts I will start with, bolts are still missing in the frames.
The disappearing frame no. 7 is also made again.
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Many thanks, you are making good progress since the last post, and the frames looking very good! We would like to see your progress more often.
 
Canoe21 said:
Hello Knut
Your build jig is starting to look very good, do pay very strict attention to the depth of each notch on your jig as they will give you the out side shape of your ship, just go slow and only do a few at a time to avoid fugue, ENJOY
Regards Lawrence
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On my Bounty I re-drew the frame jig in autocad and sent a dxf file to Laser Cut USA and had it laser cut. came back spot on. heres some pics.IMG_4099.JPGIMG_4097.JPG
 
Looking very good
I am not so familiar about this upside down construction method (Hahn), therefore my question:
How can you define, fix and be sure, that your frame and all following frames are at the correct height, so that the keel will sit correct?

SSDVSDVSDV (6).jpg

We can see at the end of the frame, that they are in the air......
 
particle board is not good to use it absorbs moisture and will warp. i suggest to make the jig out of 1/4 baltic birh then screw it onto a 1/2 thick piece of plywood will not warp....and gives a good stable platform for framing...
 
@lesterpalifka, the chipboard has been stored indoors for a couple of years, and the top layer is made of plywood, so, it is stable, thank you for your attention.
 
Bolts in the frames.

0.5 mm brass.
In my opinion, brass hardly shows.
B (1).jpgB (2).jpg

0.6mm toothpicks soaked in black ink.
My opinion, after cutting and sanding, not all toothpicks are completely soaked, fixed with a thin black marker.
T (1).jpgT (2).jpg


0.6 mm wood glue and graphite powder.
In my opinion, this method worked very well and will be used for the rest of the framework.
P (1).jpgP (2).jpg


BDW. wood types used in the sample for wood glue and graphite powder are not the type of wood from which all the frames are made.
The right type of wood is the test frame, toothpicks soaked in black ink.

Regards-
 
@ Daniel20, thank you for your encouraging words, this is the first time I make a model this way,
so there's still a lot I have to learn, and it takes time, but I'm not in a hurry.
Regards-
 
your work looks great. i cheated and used 1/4 baltic birch for my frames. yours will look like this soon keep up theIMG_4023.JPGIMG_4122.JPGIMG_4193.JPGIMG_4195.JPG great work. this is my first also for this type of construction. i just finishes a scratch built Bounty Launch in 1/16 now the actual Bounty in 1/48 scale. building upside down using Harold Hahns method.
 
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