Re: Royal William 1/48 scale

967.jpg
Shaping the front of the Poop deck cabin,

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and also the bulkhead for the intermediate deck,

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I was going to cheat and take the easy way out, but decided to go with the curved dipped ends, see pic below,

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just took a little bit more to work out,

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Test fitting,

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and a pic of my bulkhead in front of the actual model just for comparison, still needs a little bit of adjusting,

best regards john,
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972.jpg

I cut and shaped apiece of wood to match the bulkhead shape, this shows it clamped to the bulkhead for final sanding,

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and a view from the front,

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and a view of the final piece,

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Then I glued and clamped it to the front bulkhead but made sure it was lower than the bulkhead by the thickness of the planking that will be applied, giving the planking a nice strong ledge to sit on,

best regards john,

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976.jpg
The bulkheads on the intermediate deck had curved coners, so I cut two blocks of Jelutong to shape,

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test fitting the cabin corners,



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and this is how they will look after adding the windows etc,

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not yet glued to the back bulkhead,

best regards John.
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Thanks guys for the comments, my spindles arrived for making the railings around the companion way so i decided to make up the balustrades,

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These are the spindles, they are too tall, they are 40mm long 3mm at the thickest, so they have to be cut down,



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a closer look, they are cleanly turned,

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I decided on the spacing and set up the milling machine and drilled the holes through two pieces at the same time so that they would match,

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for the first set i cut and used the section from the middle of the spindles, but these i think are too tall,

985.jpg
so for the next set I used the bottom part of the spindles, luckily i had ordered more than i needed, these ones are more in scale and after a bit of sanding and adding a capping piece to the rail i think they will be OK,

986.jpg
This is more or less what they will look like when set around the companion way,

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Now for the steps themselves, the angle was to steep to attach the spindles so I used builders license and reverted to the iron stanchion and rope through them, once its all in place I doubt if it will be seen,

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and with the ropes attached,

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set down and glued in place,

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and with a section of the balustrade to show how it will look,

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and with a figure to give some scale, still some trims to add,
thanks for looking in,
best regards john,

.
 
Had a go at making the gallows, I used some ebony I have, wow what messy stuff,

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Here are the parts cut and shaped,

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Just simple housing joint's with a brass pin going down through into the uprights,

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half housing joints with a brass pin going through,

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and these are the parts for the bitts directly behind the the mast,

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and with the cross piece, not yet glued,

best regards john,
.
 
When building models you need something to hold your drill bits so they are square to the wood or brass you are drilling, I used to have a drill stand but these last few years i have just been drilling with the drill hand held, I\m getting a bit shaky these days so i thought I would buy a chuck for my Proxxon milling machine, i didn't want to go to too much expense so I went down to the local hardware store Bunnings and bought a keyless chuck for $25,

1005.jpg
Probably a lot larger than I need, but I took it out of the package and it looked A Ok,

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I particularly checked the jaws to see that they closed OK,

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the jaws will take a 1.5mm drill bit and everything looked alright,

1008.jpg
when I tried it out on some wood it was fantastic, no wobble and drilled the wood no problems,

1009.jpg
However i wanted something that could drill even smaller holes, down around the .7 or .8 range,, I have a couple of old mini drills that are just about dead and the chucks on those will take .5mm drill bits,

1010.jpg
So I opened them up and this is the piece that I needed, the brass shaft, luckily the bearing was just sitting on the shaft and it slid off, but I had to use a cut off wheel to separate the brass shaft from the motor,

1011.jpg
The shaft with the mini chuck attached,

1012.jpg
this mini chuck will has I have said take .5mm drill bits, luckily i don't have to drill that small a lot,

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and the mini chuck in place in the large chuck,

1014.jpg
that is a 1.2mm drill bit in the mini chuck,

1015.jpg
and I was really pleased I drilled six holes around this grating piece, no wobble and everything was square, i couldn't be happier,

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and this is where this grating piece will sit,

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a closer look,

thanks for dropping in,

best regards John.
 
20230409_131730.jpg
Iv'e also bought one of these mini saw tables, I only want it for small size wood pieces, cost was $100 including shipping, when it arrives I will do a review, sorry for the quality of the pics, when i was saving them Micro soft Edge was taking them over and d so i had to take actual photos of the PC screen and load and save them that way, Iv'e been trying to get rid of Micro Soft Edge but it seems to be locked into windows, any one know how to get rid of it info would be appreciated,


20230409_131721.jpg
it has a rise and fall saw blade, I think it should be OK for small stuff,

20230409_131741.jpg

20230409_131753.jpg
 
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neptune said:
When building models you need something to hold your drill bits so they are square to the wood or brass you are drilling, I used to have a drill stand but these last few years i have just been drilling with the drill hand held, I\m getting a bit shaky these days so i thought I would buy a chuck for my Proxxon milling machine, i didn't want to go to too much expense so I went down to the local hardware store Bunnings and bought a keyless chuck for $25,

View attachment 368031
Probably a lot larger than I need, but I took it out of the package and it looked A Ok,

View attachment 368032
I particularly checked the jaws to see that they closed OK,

View attachment 368033
the jaws will take a 1.5mm drill bit and everything looked alright,

View attachment 368034
when I tried it out on some wood it was fantastic, no wobble and drilled the wood no problems,

View attachment 368035
However i wanted something that could drill even smaller holes, down around the .7 or .8 range,, I have a couple of old mini drills that are just about dead and the chucks on those will take .5mm drill bits,

View attachment 368036
So I opened them up and this is the piece that I needed, the brass shaft, luckily the bearing was just sitting on the shaft and it slid off, but I had to use a cut off wheel to separate the brass shaft from the motor,

View attachment 368037
The shaft with the mini chuck attached,

View attachment 368038
this mini chuck will has I have said take .5mm drill bits, luckily i don't have to drill that small a lot,

View attachment 368039
and the mini chuck in place in the large chuck,

View attachment 368040
that is a 1.2mm drill bit in the mini chuck,

View attachment 368041
and I was really pleased I drilled six holes around this grating piece, no wobble and everything was square, i couldn't be happier,

View attachment 368042
and this is where this grating piece will sit,

View attachment 368043
a closer look,

thanks for dropping in,

best regards John.
Click to expand...
Great re-purposing John.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
neptune said:
View attachment 368046
Iv'e also bought one of these mini saw tables, I only want it for small size wood pieces, cost was $100 including shipping, when it arrives I will do a review, sorry for the quality of the pics, when i was saving them Micro soft Edge was taking them over and d so i had to take actual photos of the PC screen and load and save them that way, Iv'e been trying to get rid of Micro Soft Edge but it seems to be locked into windows, any one know how to get rid of it info would be appreciated,


View attachment 368047
it has a rise and fall saw blade, I think it should be OK for small stuff,

View attachment 368048

View attachment 368049
Click to expand...

Hello Neptun, I'm really looking forward to your report, because I've also had this saw in mind and in my wish list on Amazon.
 
1018.jpg
I needed some small columns for supporting the deck beams, in the past I've made my own, but this time they didn't work out ok, I do not know why, maybe the lathe was a different speed, the only one I had any luck with was one in ebony and that had a slight twist, I will post some pics later of the ones I made, anyway these that I am showing now are bought ones from Etsy, they were only $5 for four, the right of the pic shows the right way up and on the left is the way I wanted them, black dotted lines are where I cut them off to fit under the beams,

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This shows what I did, I cut the top and bottom and turned them around,


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These two pics show me trying one out under the beam,


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and a view from the front,

best regards john.
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The first two are ones I made awhile back and the one on the end I just made, but if you look at the bottom of it you can see it is square but at the top it has a twist, that is due to the heat build up whilst turning, I tried slower speeds but that didnt work either,


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For anyone who is interested and wants to give it a go here is how I made them, you can see the stainless steel tool i made from some bread knife,

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this is how I marked the edges for cutting the shape,

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and in the lathe actually turning to shape, when you do this you have to have the tool just below centre and also you have to have bevelled it slightly along the cutting edge so it cuts the wood, I think this is where I might have gone wrong,

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I cannot remember what type of wood this was, I had no problems with it back then, maybe I'm just getting old,

thanks for looking in,
best regards John,



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Wow John, you made a lot of progress here.
As allways I love your creativity in sourcing materials leading to a wonderfull RW.
Visiting the Annapolis Naval Academy museum 3 wks ago and looking at their 1:48 scale RW I realized the shear size of your build.
See here the Anapolis RW maybe you can use these.
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