Revell Cutty Sark 1:96 with 3D printed modifications

Wow! That's amazing! Makes me want to start this model, which due to it's size is quite intimidating, butI have to finish a couple of models first. I probably won't do any 3dprinting on it though. Will mark this thread to look at it while I build it!
 
I'd settle for being a broken monkey just to be able to understand the basics of Blender. Any recommendations tutorial-wise? Thanks for the compliments and yes, F360 is mostly fabulous (and free!).
 
Since you already use F360, you're well on your way. Probably too simple for you, but a good real basic start:
What I love is that you can do part mfg, and build to photo real stuff and even animation. AND it's open source, AND free.

juancho142 - don't rule out 3D. One day.... It's so useful.

I anxiously await more progress.

 
Thanks, appreciated, I'll take a look at this over the weekend. Ditto with respect to doing 3D on the cutty sark. I won't do the false modesty thing, some of it is quite complicated both on the design side and printing side, but if you're at all used to 3D there are a lot of quick and easy remakes, such as blocks, stanchions, chimneys etc that will raise the model by a notch or two.

Originally I had no intention of doing any printing on this kit, the plan was do an OOTB build as a quick break from the 3D work I'd started on the Heller 1/96 HMS Victory, which by then was draining my will to live! But one thing led to another and, in the event, I've used it to rehearse what I'll probably do for other models, or maybe for one 'grand statement' 1/48 ship. One thing I have learned through this is that you are right up against the margins when trying to do 'true-to-life' 3D detailing at 1/96, whereas everything would obviously be twice as big in 1/48, giving way more latitude & tolerance, part strength, and so on. But of course you'd then need a bigger house to build it in :p. And you'd have to build the entire thing from scratch, which is both good and bad.
 
You do great work. I hope to make blocks and guns in 3D, but I have a ways to go (and a bazillion model projects before I get to to my ship). I hope to light the guns and use an Arduino to add synced sound. Just experiments now. But being able to make parts that don't exist, or make parts to look more accurate, in 3D, is a whole new, exciting world.

1/48, mmmmm. But as you say, complexity and space! My friend is building an RC 1/72 Nimitiz. He tested the hull in a lake a few weeks ago, 5.5 meters long/18ft. He had to rent a box truck and enlist 4 mates to help transport it.
 
Kevin I'm about to start the same kit and am very impressed with your 3d prints. Are any of the print designs available for sale, especially the winches.
 
Hi Richard, I’m happy to look at making a few bits for you, I’ll send you a pm with some prices in the next few days.
 
Hi Richard, I’m happy to look at making a few bits for you, I’ll send you a pm with some prices in the next few days.
May I ask what software you use to make your 3D models? I have a Ultimaker 3D printer but my current CAD program does not support 3D printing. I have tried a couple online, free programs but they seem to be very basic and somewhat restrictive in what I seem to be able to do with them. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
 
May I ask what software you use to make your 3D models? I have a Ultimaker 3D printer but my current CAD program does not support 3D printing. I have tried a couple online, free programs but they seem to be very basic and somewhat restrictive in what I seem to be able to do with them. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I do almost everything in Fusion 360. There's a free hobbyist licence. The learning curve is a bit challenging at first but there are tons of videos on youtube. There are a few other good free programs out there, Siemens SolidEdge, FreeCAD, it's worth trying out as many as you can as this is a horses for courses thing and you'll find each user tends to favour the one they've got used to.
 
Thanks for the nice compliments, they’re much appreciated. I’ve paused the build lately, in part because I took delivery of a laser cutter and have been having lots of fun making various non-model things. But I’ve also been working on a wood veneer deck top and will hopefully be offering this and some of the 3D printed parts for purchase quite soon.
 
Tell us more about both. I don't think I can quite yet convince the Dept of the Treasury/Finance Minister of the need for a laser cutter, but I am thinking. I've learned that it's best to avoid the El Cheapo ones and go for a name brand, but $$$/€€€/£££. And space! I literally don't have any and can't gain any! Very interested in what you'll off in 3D.
 
Thanks for the nice compliments, they’re much appreciated. I’ve paused the build lately, in part because I took delivery of a laser cutter and have been having lots of fun making various non-model things. But I’ve also been working on a wood veneer deck top and will hopefully be offering this and some of the 3D printed parts for purchase quite soon.
This thread is so enlightening! I just bought the 12K Anycubic resin printer and have now got resin and a wash and cure station! So much to learn. Fortunately, I am competent with Fusion 360 and will start out with some simple items. You are an inspiration. My current build is the OcCre Nuestra Senora del Pilar galleon in 1:46 scale and I am looking forward to see what detail I can add as I go along...
 
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Merry Christmas! My "old" Anycubic had a problem. I fixed it, but I convinced the Powers That Be that it's best to have a new printer, too! Anyone want to buy a bridge in Manhattan? ;)
 
Merry Christmas! My "old" Anycubic had a problem. I fixed it, but I convinced the Powers That Be that it's best to have a new printer, too! Anyone want to buy a bridge in Manhattan? ;)
Ain't it nice gettin' the Green Light? ( of course my better half has ideas of me printing fancy little flower pot designs for her little succulents....)
 
The 12k is a good size and trust me, you’ll be blown away by the quality of prints. Also good to have bought the wash’n’cure from the outset, hand washing is messy and a PITA. Can I give you a couple of tips. Get a spare build plate, a spare tank, a spare screen and a pack of FEP early on. The spare plate allows you to start the next print immediately. The other three are all about being able to carry on printing when you stuff up, without having to wait for replacements to arrive. And here’s a lesson learned that can help you not wreck the screen too early! You’ll probably have a few fails early on while learning to print. When you have a fail, use the tank clean routine rather than just trying to remove the fail remnants from the FEP. This avoids creating weak spots in the FEP, which if these become even a microscopic hole results in resin being cured directly onto the expensive screen. Obviously the tank clean routine wastes a bit of resin, but on balance I’d rather waste 10 pence worth of resin each time than have to shell out £80 to replace a screen that only has 30 hours on the clock. Let alone the hassle of replacing it.

Lasering: easier to learn than 3D printing but I hadn’t appreciated just how much space is needed, and the ‘hidden’ costs. I’ve needed to spend a good few £100’s on a work surface big enough, an enclosure and on air extraction. I wouldn’t have been able to tolerate the fumes from cutting plywood. Luckily I already had a spare laptop so have been able to create a dedicated laser station in my garage. However, I’m already realising that an even bigger machine would have been better. But pretty expensive.

I‘ll post an update on parts for purchase in January, I’m prepping a load as we speak.
 
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