G'day all
I'm back in the shipyard and it was great to be back among the sawdust. Sorry to everyone, but I've been too sick,
too tired etc to do anything except to sleep.
Hopefully that is all behind me. When I wasn't working physically I was still thinking of how to do thing and I have came up with an alternate way of planking and I gave it a try. It was a lot easier and quicker. So here's my method:
As said before I'm not following the instructions on this mini kit and I'm doing the clinker panels more to the normal method with one exception. See previous YOUTUBE post.
Because of the scale I'm not doing a rebate in each plank to allow the next plank to intertwine.
What is my difference is that I'm planing and sanding the top outer and the bottom inner side of the planks so they will join in much the same as as the rebate idea.
These above drawings shows (as well as I can to explain) shows the end elevation of the planks. The instructions says to thin down the ends to about half the thinnest and then place the planks on top of each other as a clinker style, from stern to bow.
The above is my method. I'm angling the end of the planks at the bow and stern so they will be able to intermingle each other. The rest length of plank is left untouched except for:
Where necessary, I have to wedge the plank so that the top plank and the mold will not rock and the join between the two is more solid.
The above photo shows that I'm using an offcut of a 4x1mm timber as a marker and draw a pencil line to where the plank will be laid. After measuring and dry fitting the plank I marked a pencil line on the plank that I gluing and also to the base plank.
The other major change that I'm doing now is how I glued the planks to each other. The instructions say to use CA glue all the way as you stick the planks together.
I'm now using CA glue instead of PVA but I put a tack and by using the pencil mark that I mentioned earlier to put it in the correct position.
Then tacking the bow and stern separately, I then removed the keel of the mold
and then CA and clamp the rest of the plank.
To make sure that each side is uniform, I use my caliper and measure the distance and 'try' to do the same on the other side.
Now there's 4 frames on both side, that's enough for today.
The photos are showing all the pit and scapes which still has to be fixed.
The rubber bands hold the keel in it's place with its is on the mold.
Happymodeling and thanks for watching.
Greg