School for model ship building

As a result of reading Davis’s book I attempted, unsuccessfully to build a POF model. Hahn’s method offered something not described in Davis’s book; a way to align the frames. My next attempt using Hahn’s method produced a model that I am happy with. I believe that you judged it at one of the contests held at the Inland Seas Museum.

i did judge all the shows back then so most likely i did judge your model. there were. actually it was a panel of judges.

Since you knew Hahn well, I have a question that you can perhaps answer. To what extent was he influenced by Davis’s work and book? Was his method originally a way to improve on Davis’s work by adding the upside down building jig? If so it made building POF models practical for many of us.

it was Robert Bruckshaw that influenced Harold building in a jig. Bob used a floating sort of jig, i will see if i have a picture of one of his hulls under construction. Bob built models on private contracts and for the Smithsonian he had no interest in the hobby end, where Harold got into writing articles and books, drawing modeling plans and designing a method for hobby builders to succeed in plank on frame models. So Harold redesigned Bob's building method.

Relative to criticism directed at him for the double sistered frames: In the early 1970’s I don’t remember any American ship modelers publishing any research about actual Eighteenth Century framing practes. Later on, people began to criticize Davis’s reconstruction of the Brig Lexington including the double sistered frames. This spilled over to Hahn’s work as well.

back in the early 1970s there was little research and archaeological information in the hobby world of model ship building. It was all pretty much a mystery as to how ships were built. At an NRG conference Portia Takakjian introduced her model of the Essex which used the British system of framing of a sistered frame and single filler frames. When asked about why she chose that system of framing her answer was "because i like it" Later on when the Essex was published by Anatomy of the ship series the framing was changes to historically correct all sistered frames. The British version of framing caught on as a fad and somehow connected with the Admiralty models. At the time building English ship was all the rage and pretty mush still is. It is rare to find American built ships besides the Constitution and Rattlesnake. My guess English ships just looked pretty American ship were more practical they were ship of war and that was that, little gingerbread was added. You can see in the model Expo Confederacy using English framing a left over from an early fad and not realistic.
When the academic world of archaeology and the hobby of model shipbuilding began to overlap there was a flow of information. War of 1812 ship wrecks on the great lakes hum in the Great lakes all the ships even the British ones were all sistered framing.
Now we know better so we can build better and closer historical models.
 
Finally all caught up.

Recap of what I have learned so far as a complete newbie:
- the three parts of most drawings is a side view of the ship -obvious. The front and back view of the ship. Smashed together to look like one odd ship. One side will be the front, the other will be the back. The third drawing is from the bottom of the ship as if you were on the sea floor staring up at it. There are horizontal lines called waterlines that spread the three drawings to provide additional reference points to take a 2d drawing and make it 3d.


very good you get a gold star in class.

lets see a visual

this is the outside profile. On a set of drawings you will get the wale, sheer line that is the top where the cap rail sits. Any gun ports if it is an armed vessel. and moldings

outside profile.jpg

when you cut a hull from bow to stern along the center of the keel it is the inside profile. On this view you will find the deck line, inside the bulkheads and any deck features like hatches, windlass location, deck house and location of deck beams.


inside profile.jpg

to get the shape of the hull you have a bodyplan from a view at the bow looking back to the stern

bow view.jpg

looking from the stern to the bow the bodyplan looks like this

stern view.jpg

a draftsman will split the bodyplan on one side is the view from the stern and on the other side is a view from the bow

swplit bocy plan.jpg

a bodyplan will look like this

body plan.jpg

when you look at the profile it will show you the locations of the body lines called station lines. Where the hull takes a drastic change in shape like at the bow the station lines are placed closer together.

bodyplan side view.jpg

Standing at the bottom of the lake looking up you see this

bottom view.jpg

for the draftsman this view will show the shape of the hull from bow to stern. a plan will include the waterlines, deck line and sheer line.

waterlinesbottom view.jpg
viewing the hull from the side the waterlines are a straight line. To build a half model or a lift model these two views gives you the shape and thickness for each lift. The more waterlines on the drawing the better you can define the shape of the hull.

water lines side view.jpg

the final view is looking down on the deck here the draftsman will add the deck features like hatches, fittings, deck house etc.

deck view.jpg
 
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good job you are correct and if you have questions or need a better explanation post it that is why we are here.


There are horizontal lines called waterlines that spread the three drawings to provide additional reference points to take a 2d drawing and make it 3d.
- tools used don't have to be complex. To start with an exact knife and tongue depressors or coffee sticks will do the trick if you are strapped for cash but still want to learn. Personally I'm using scissors and cardboard for my first build but look forward to moving on to wood someday.
- there are lots of words I don't know. The ones I have figured out so far: Frame is uh... one of the ribs of the hull. Hull is the bottom of the boat. Aft is the back of the boat. Keel - the bottom center beam of the ship that the frames are attached too.
- frames are made by glueing up multiple cuts of wood together instead of one solid piece. It is ok to use one solid piece though if you aren't too concerned with accuracy or wood waste. The joints are offset to make each rib frame thing stronger.
- frames are set into the keel. You can attach them to the keel using a square of some sort or the jig that holds the tops in place and builds upsidedown
- cad makes it a lot easier especially if you have a friend with a laser cutter. However, tracing paper or holding printouts to a window or taking a piece of paper to a dark room and holding it over your computer/tablet screen also works to trace onto paper. Note - if your screen isn't glass like an iPad be very careful with the amount of pressure supplied to not ruin your screen.
- I'm sorry to hear of the loss of a great model builder. Thank you for teaching us what you learned to from him.
- everyone here is very passionate and polite even with different opinions which is super encouraging. Everyone can art is my belief for sure.
 
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