Silent Mary by Mellpapa

[mellpapa]

■The bulkhead on the bow.■


I will add filler here as well.
Make the balsa 7mm thick, put it in place, and draw in the curves.
Notice the red arrow! I'm using a pencil to draw the curve.


I used the curve as a marker to cut a roughly curved surface and sandpapered it.


Glued on the bow part. After this, I sandpapered it to make it even.


I cut some 6mm, 5mm, 3mm wide boards out of 1mm thick cypress wood and soaked them in water to soften them.


Wrap the soaked and softened boards around the spray can and wrap them with masking tape and let them dry.


When it is dry, remove the board from the spray can and let it dry naturally.


When the board is dry, attach it to the bow bulkhead.
Hold it down with pushpins until it dries.


Once the board is stuck to the top, wait for the glue to dry.


After the glue dried, I cut the boards that were sticking out from the sides.
Notice the red arrows!

 

[mellpapa]

My browser's page-taking tool suddenly broke down, so I had to put all the photos together and annotate them.
Today, all of a sudden, the page scraping tool was fixed.
I think it was hard to see the page.
I apologize to everyone for the inconvenience.
I'm sorry.

 

[Uwek]

Many Thanks for showing us your work in the details - very interesting work

 

[mellpapa]

Many Thanks for showing us your work in the details - very interesting work

Thank you very much. I'm still in the process of building the hull. I'm translating my website into English and putting it up.
I'm this far along now.
(´・ω・｀)

 

[mellpapa]

■Counter

The counter part of the red arrow was shaped with balsa wood.

■Stern post

The stern post of the red arrow part was cut out from 8mm square bar and temporarily assembled.


The stern post was removed, and the blue arrow part, where there was a hole, was sealed with aviation veneer.
I used 1mm thick, 5mm wide, 3mm wide, etc. to attach the outer board to the red arrow and counter part.


The outer board is attached to the red arrow.


Cut the outer board that juts out on both sides.

■Transom
Paste the transom part.　
For the transom part, the planks are attached diagonally as shown in the above figure for the sailing ship model, but the design drawing of the Silent Mary has the planks attached horizontally, so the planks are attached as shown.


Finished attaching the transom part.　Leave it until the tight bond dries.


I can't cut the boards that pop out until the tight bond dries, so here's a shot of the workbench.
I put a table in front of the chest of drawers in my bedroom and put the drawing board on it.

 

[mellpapa]

The tight bond on the transom part has dried. The stern post will get in the way of cutting the protruding board, so I remove the temporary assembly.


Cut the protruding board with a cutout knife.


I also cut the port side and sanded it.

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The basic lines for attaching the outer panels to the port and starboard sides have been marked before.
After soaking a 1mm thick x 5mm wide board in water to match the bottom line, fix it with push pins to match the curved lines on both sides. (red arrow)
This is the starboard side.


This is the port side. (Red arrow)
Leave it for a while until the water of the 1mm thick x 5mm wide board dries.
　

The starboard side is now dry, so I stuck it in. The top two rails are also attached.
I used 1mm thick x 3mm wide rails.


Bow section on starboard side.


Starboard bow section.


Stern of the starboard side.


The port side is also pasted in.


Bow section on port side.


Port side bow section.


Stern of the port side.

I've got the wales and two rails attached. There are three more rails. That's six rails on each side. After attaching these, we'll finally start the process of attaching the outer plates.
Will it work? ...~(;^ω^)b

 

[mellpapa]

■Attaching the outer board■


I finished pasting the remaining boards for the rails that I had pasted last time.
Using the basic wale, rail, and gerpod strake as the basic line, we'll apply 2mm thick, 5mm wide cypress wood.
I'll be sure to work on the port and starboard sides of the exterior panels at the same time.


Using the top rail board as a reference, the outer board on the stern side is attached upward.
I use 2mm, 3mm, 4mm, and 5mm widths, depending on the situation.


I put the bow side up as well.

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■Attaching the outer panels from the bottom side of the ship to the wale■

Attaching the outer panels from the bottom side of the ship to the wale
We'll use 5mm wide and 2mm thick cypress for the outer panels from the garpod strake to the wale. If it doesn't fit anymore, I'll use 6mm width or 4mm width in the right places.
Measure the widest part with a convex measure and divide it by 5mm to get the number of sheets needed for the outer board.


I'm measuring the widest part.
It's 110mm, so we'll need about 22 pieces of 5mm wide cypress.
We made the bite on the hull.
The bite is a rough estimate.
When we actually put the outer panels on, they won't fit. So, I planed and pasted the outer panels to fit the actual situation.
It's best to do it on the spot.


This is what it looks like in close-up.
1,2,3,4,5...... 20, 21, 22.


I also measured the bow side and divided by 22 to get the width of the hull.
77mm / 22 = 3.5mm
Cut the bow side to 3.5mm wide.
Use a divider to make a 3.5mm bite.
Measure the stern side as well and make a bite.
The width of the stern side was about 4.7mm.


I planed the outer panels, soaked them in water to soften them, and fixed them to the curve of the hull, then let them dry for a bit.
Then I glued them together, which took a while.
The bow and stern sides are glued with instant wood glue (from Daiso, but it's good!).
Between the bow and stern, I used tight bond.


There were two screws in the bottom of the boat, but I removed those as well and put on the hull.
I took pictures and looked at the images, and I'm not sure if I'm making progress or not.
It was slower than a cattle prod.

I don't know...

On my website, I have posted instructions on how to make a jig for processing the outer panels, but I think it is best to devise your own method for applying the outer panels.
If you really want to know how to make a jig, please go to the following site.

SilentMary-12

 

[mellpapa]

I failed to get the last piece of the bottom of the boat to fit in the gap. If you think it's just a matter of getting the width of the bow, belly, and stern of the boat right, I guess it's okay. I managed to put up the bottom hull, although I had six rejected boards on both sides. It's really difficult to attach the outer panels below the draft.
I had to fit the curve of the hull to attach it, so it was a bit rickety. It's like applying clinkers (armor). When I'm done with all the exterior panels, I'm going to use an electric sander to make it look like it's caraveled (flat).
Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)


After attaching the outer panels on the bottom of the ship, it is time to attach the outer panels on both sides. The 3mm width of the 1mm-thick outer panels will be used for the rails, and the 2mm-thick outer panels will be used to fill in the gaps.
The outer panels need to be processed to fit the gap.


We finished attaching the outer panels of the empty areas on both sides of the ship.


Mix the right amount of chips and tight bond on the paper.
This is all you need to make putty for woodworking.

　　
Putting putty on the gaps in the exterior panels.
There are quite a few areas that I am concerned about.
Some of the gaps are caused by the glue drying and shrinking of the exterior panels that were moistened with water and bent.
But the main reason for the gaps is that I'm not very good at attaching the outer panels...
I can't help it.　　(´・ω・`)ｂ

Only the necessary information is posted here, on the original website, for attaching the outer panels.
It's not interesting to look at the pictures of putting up the outer panels one by one.

 

[mellpapa]

■Electric sanding■


I'm preparing for the electric sander.
The hull is upside down and fixed in place.


I'm using this electric sander to do some rough grinding.
It's so powerful that my left hand is numb!


It was rough, but I was able to remove most of it.


Mmm-hmm! Here's a secret weapon: ......
It's a pretty good one for getting to the details.
With this, I will finish each important part.


It's a typical tumble form.
Comparison of port and starboard, they're about the same.
No one can see both sides at the same time, so this is fine.

By the way, my hulling is a bit different from the traditional hulling, and it's not very good, so it's not very helpful.

 

[Lorenzo]

A very instructive work

 

[mellpapa]

A very instructive work

Hello, Mr. Lorenzo.
Thank you for your interest.
The English version is available at www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version), translated and posted.
I'm not sure if the translation is getting through to you.

 

[mellpapa]

I don't have many pictures of the wale rail. The rails are the red circles, but real sailing ships have a mold carved into them, but the Silent Mary...?
I'm going with no mold, just like the Black Pearl. If you don't know what I'm talking about, I'll go with my own judgment and prejudice.
I can't even tell from the photos on the set.


I cut the protruding outer panels of the bow and stern sections.


I used an electric sander, but there were still some gaps, so I applied putty made from a mixture of saw dust and tight bond.


Electric sanding again
The bow section, the gap has somehow been filled. I don't want to make it too smooth. I'm not a fan of too clean surface treatment.
After this, I'm going to scratch it to make the wood grain.
The photos below show the belly (circled in red) and stern of the hull.
I used an electric sander to fill in the gaps.

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The red arrow is the rail and the blue arrow is the wale...I think.
The width of the rail is 3mm and the width of the wale is 5mm.




The whole thing looks like this.
　

I have finished attaching the outer panels, electric sanding, and the rails and wails.
The light red part of the frame is the plywood support that was used until the outer board was attached, but now it has finished its role and will be removed. Some of them are broken and no longer exist, but I will cut them off.
They are in the way of attaching the deck and lining.


Since it's not necessary, don't hesitate to cut it with nippers. After that, I used a carving knife to make a clean cut.


Bow side with support cut out / Middle part of the ship with support cut out / Stern side with support cut out



Notice the red part!
This is where the frame support plate used to be, but I cut it out. I had to cut it out to make room for the cannon.
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Now, the next step is to drill the holes for the gun ports. I have to position it properly... I also have to make a drawing of the deck.
I also have to make a lot of grating.　
I've got a lot of work to do, but I'll take it at my own pace.
～(;^ω^)ｂ

 

[mellpapa]

■Positioning the gun ports■

I cleaned up the area around the drawing board and put the screws in the bottom of the boat again.
The Silent Mary will be a sea dayorama, so you won't be able to see the bottom of the ship.
I'm going to put in the gun port lines in the same way I put in the rail and rail lines.


A is a simple torscan that I made myself and use to put horizontal lines on the hull.
B is a tool that I don't have a name for, but is used to put vertical lines on the hull. It's made of a piece of wood with a transparent plastic board attached to it with double-sided tape. The edge of the clear plastic is vertical.


Draw a vertical line. After this, I used a torscan to draw the height of the line above the gun ports.
The hull is made of tumble foam, so if you press down on the wrong part of the hull, it will be distorted, so be careful.
Even if you are careful, it will distort.
I'd say the error is about 0.5mm to 1mm. It would be best if there were no deviations at all. Well, no one can see port and starboard at the same time, so...


Cut out a gun port on a transparent plastic board and draw it as a gauge with a sharpie.


Can you see the sharpie lines faintly?
I measured the position of the gun ports with a tape measure to make sure they were the same on both sides, and then drilled the holes.
(;^ω^)ｂ

 

[mellpapa]

■ Create a backing box ■


After opening the gun ports in the hull, we need a box for the backing.
As I did when I made the FD, I cut out many 2mm thick plates of 13mm length and width and 15mm length and width to make the boxes.
The number needed is 64 for both sides.


Here is a close-up photo.
They are quite distorted, but there is no problem.
It's for the backing, so it doesn't matter how it looks. It's not something you can see from the outside.
As long as it doesn't break, it's fine.
When the glue is completely dry, I paint the inside black, but it's not completely dry yet.


The tight bond isn't completely dry, so I put it in a McDonald's paper cup and let it dry for storage.
The McDonald's paper cups can be washed, cleaned, and kept for various uses.
You can use them to make mazes of silicon main material and hardener, mazes of resin A and B, mazes of plaster, and so on...they are very useful.


I bought some Tamiya Color XF-1 Flat Black acrylic paint.
I will paint the inside of the gun port backing box with this.
Start with the gun on the port side. ......
Tamiya Color's acrylic paint has a weaker smell than lacquer-based paints, which is a big help.
(´・ω・`)ｂ


When the port side is finished, put away the Ｍcdonalds paper cup, and now paint the starboard side.


The lined boxes on both sides are stored in paper cups until they are ready to be used.

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■ Drill a hole in the gun port ■


Drill a hole in the gun port.
Use a needle to mark the inside of the area where you inserted the sharpie.


It looks like this.


Now, drill the area where the needle was inserted with a 1mm router drill.


It looks like this.


After that, cut it out with a design knife.
On the starboard side, I drilled three holes, so there are only 34 holes left.
I'll have to take my time and try not to make any mistakes.


I worked hard to open the third row of gun ports on both sides with my design knife.


Even though it was opened with a design knife, as you can see, it was opened roughly.
It looks like this. Now I put sandpaper on the square bar to finish it.
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■ Putting the finishing touches on the gun ports ■

　
These are the tools that were used to cleanly cut and file the gun ports. From the top, a 5mm square bar with sandpaper attached, a file, and a Tamiya Modeler's Knife Pro.
Incidentally, when I changed the blade of the modeler's knife to a new one, I got injured. When I changed the blade of the modeler's knife to a new one, I put too much pressure on it, as if I were using a blade that was no longer sharp. And I end up cutting the right hand that's supporting me...
I'm a tightwad, so my right hand gets injured a lot. The right hand is used to hold the material in place. I feel a little sorry for his right hand.


Finally finished the gun port shaping.
The position of the gun port is a little off, but I don't mind, it's only a 0.5mm to 1mm error, so don't worry about it.

Everyone, please be careful when using a design knife.
(;^ω^)ｂ

 

[Frank48]

■ Create a backing box ■

View attachment 284619
After opening the gun ports in the hull, we need a box for the backing.
As I did when I made the FD, I cut out many 2mm thick plates of 13mm length and width and 15mm length and width to make the boxes.
The number needed is 64 for both sides.

View attachment 284620
Here is a close-up photo.
They are quite distorted, but there is no problem.
It's for the backing, so it doesn't matter how it looks. It's not something you can see from the outside.
As long as it doesn't break, it's fine.
When the glue is completely dry, I paint the inside black, but it's not completely dry yet.

View attachment 284621
The tight bond isn't completely dry, so I put it in a McDonald's paper cup and let it dry for storage.
The McDonald's paper cups can be washed, cleaned, and kept for various uses.
You can use them to make mazes of silicon main material and hardener, mazes of resin A and B, mazes of plaster, and so on...they are very useful.

View attachment 284629
I bought some Tamiya Color XF-1 Flat Black acrylic paint.
I will paint the inside of the gun port backing box with this.
Start with the gun on the port side. ......
Tamiya Color's acrylic paint has a weaker smell than lacquer-based paints, which is a big help.
(´・ω・`)ｂ

View attachment 284630
When the port side is finished, put away the Ｍcdonalds paper cup, and now paint the starboard side.

View attachment 284631
The lined boxes on both sides are stored in paper cups until they are ready to be used.

ーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーー

■ Drill a hole in the gun port ■

View attachment 284622
Drill a hole in the gun port.
Use a needle to mark the inside of the area where you inserted the sharpie.

View attachment 284623
It looks like this.

View attachment 284624
Ora, perfora l'area in cui è stato inserito l'ago con una fresa da 1 mm.

View attachment 284625
Sembra questo.

View attachment 284626
Successivamente, ritaglialo con un coltello da disegno.
Sul lato di dritta, ho praticato tre fori, quindi sono rimasti solo 34 fori.
Dovrò prendermi il mio tempo e cercare di non commettere errori.

View attachment 284627
Ho lavorato duramente per aprire la terza fila di porte della pistola su entrambi i lati con il mio coltello di design.

View attachment 284628
Anche se è stato aperto con un coltello di design, come puoi vedere, è stato aperto in modo approssimativo.
Sembra questo. Ora ho messo della carta vetrata sulla barra quadrata per finirla.
ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー ー

■ Dare il tocco finale alle porte della pistola ■

View attachment 284633　View attachment 284634
Questi sono gli strumenti che sono stati utilizzati per tagliare e limare in modo pulito le porte della pistola. Dall'alto, una barra quadrata da 5 mm con carta vetrata attaccata, una lima e un Tamiya Modeler's Knife Pro.
Per inciso, quando ho cambiato la lama del coltello da modellista con una nuova, mi sono fatto male. Quando ho cambiato la lama del coltello da modellista con una nuova, ho esercitato troppa pressione su di essa, come se stessi usando una lama che non era più affilata. E finisco per tagliare la mano destra che mi sostiene...
Sono un tirapiedi, quindi la mia mano destra si fa molto male. La mano destra è usata per tenere il materiale in posizione. Mi dispiace un po' per la sua mano destra.

View attachment 284637 View attachment 284638
Alla fine ho terminato la sagomatura della porta della pistola.
La posizione della porta della pistola è un po 'fuori luogo, ma non mi dispiace, è solo un errore da 0,5 mm a 1 mm, quindi non preoccuparti.

Tutti, fate attenzione quando usate un coltello di design.
(;^ω^)ｂ

Buongiorno , un lavoro molto impegnati Complimenti , io avrei optato con questa soluzione che è più realistica

 

[Lorenzo]

Hello, Mr. Lorenzo.
Thank you for your interest.
The English version is available at www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version), translated and posted.
I'm not sure if the translation is getting through to you.

I'm sorry, in Spanish, something instructive means that I serve you to learn. Perhaps the correct word is didactic

Greetings

 

[mellpapa]

Buongiorno , un lavoro molto impegnati Complimenti , io avrei optato con questa soluzione che è più realistica

Ciao, Frank48!
Grazie mille per aver guardato il mio lavoro.
Fare una scatola di supporto è un lavoro noioso.
È l'unica cosa che mi è venuta in mente.
C'è molto lavoro da fare da zero.
Per favore, date un'occhiata quando lo carico di nuovo.
I migliori saluti!

 

[Frank48]

Ciao, Frank48!
Grazie mille per aver guardato il mio lavoro.
Fare una scatola di supporto è un lavoro noioso.
È l'unica cosa che mi è venuta in mente.
C'è molto lavoro da fare da zero.
Per favore, date un'occhiata quando lo carico di nuovo.
I migliori saluti!

Ciao mellpapa , mi sono permesso di dare una mia osservazione di contributo, tutto quìPollice suPollice su

 

[mellpapa]

I'm sorry, in Spanish, something instructive means that I serve you to learn. Perhaps the correct word is didactic

Greetings

Hello, Mr Lorenzo.
I look forward to working with you.
Please have a look again when we update.

 

[mellpapa]

Attaching gun port backing


As a preliminary step, glue the grips to the back of the gun port backing box.
That's the handle to grab with tweezers when gluing the backing box.


I immediately stuck it in from the bow. This is the port side. You can see that I'm using a stick to hold it in place.
I didn't want the backing box to come off when I glued the cannon barrel on.


I have a picture of it taken from above.　You can see that I'm on a stick.


Looking from the hull side on both sides, one upper, two interrupted, and four lower gun ports are black from the bow side.
That's OK as long as it looks like it has depth.
There are 52 more pieces of backing needed for both ports.
The backing can be done simply by attaching boards, though.
Since the previous Black Pearl and Flying Dutchman were made using a backing box, I will use the same backing box for this one.


Some of the gun ports overlap the frame, so some of them have to be cut like this.
It's a bit time consuming to cut each block to shape.


Finally, I stuck the remaining 52 backing boxes in place. It was a pain in the ass trying to match the curve of the interior wall.


I put a piece of wood on the back of the backing box and on the frame.
I added a red arrow. Can you see it?
A piece of wood is attached. This is enough to serve as a substitute for a tensile bar.


For the backing box, where I couldn't attach a piece of paper, I glued a stick to it.
This is the red arrow part.
I used a piece of wood to hold it in place to prevent it from shifting.
It's a bit messy, but since it won't be visible after the deck is attached, I glued it in place.

ーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーーー

■Gan port questions ■


I had been making drawings based on this design, but when I was making the gun port part, I had some questions.


So I took a closer look, and it seems to be there on the set that was built for the shoot. In the design drawing, is there? Or not? I'm not sure.
I didn't notice it at all when I was doing the drawings for the hull.


Here's a close-up of a part of the set that was built for the shooting, the red circle.


I immediately drew in the gun ports with a pencil.
It's the red circle. Can you see it?

I opened the gun port. This is the starboard side.


This is the port side, and it's kind of a retrofit gunport, so the spacing between the left and right sides is a bit crawly, but I don't mind. This position has a channel, shrouds coming down from above and tied to the deadeye, and a lanyard, so it's a messy place. ......

I don't know if I'm the only one who thinks that. (´・ω・`)ｂ