Skonnert Bluenose POF

Took a break from the hull and readied the main deck beams and deck details. This included the compound beams making up the deck openings. I later checked these against the jig discard and found them to be a tad long.
The longitudinal members need some tweaking.
If I was to do this again, I would have used the jig discard as a jig for the compound beams.
Those rowboats are very delicate!! Take your time.
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Finn said:
Took a break from the hull and readied the main deck beams and deck details. This included the compound beams making up the deck openings. I later checked these against the jig discard and found them to be a tad long.
The longitudinal members need some tweaking.
If I was to do this again, I would have used the jig discard as a jig for the compound beams.
Those rowboats are very delicate!! Take your time.
View attachment 228862View attachment 228863
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Great work Finn, yes sometimes you need a diversion , I love the row boats
 
Good job!
PS: There are so many Bluenose threads at the moment and I must admit that I follow them only sporadically. I stumbled over your headline and the name Finn and I thought: He's got to be be Danish. So I had to take a look. Now I've learned that even the word 'Skonnert' (schooner) is 100% the same in Norwegian and Danish.
 
PoulD said:
Good job!
PS: There are so many Bluenose threads at the moment and I must admit that I follow them only sporadically. I stumbled over your headline and the name Finn and I thought: He's got to be be Danish. So I had to take a look. Now I've learned that even the word 'Skonnert' (schooner) is 100% the same in Norwegian and Danish.
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Vi har mye til felles!
 
Puzzled,
Looking at the Joining of the lower masts and upper masts.
The caps nicely ties them together at the top.
But nothing seems to tie them together, front to back, at the bottom.
Missing something?
 
Finn said:
Puzzled,
Looking at the Joining of the lower masts and upper masts.
The caps nicely ties them together at the top.
But nothing seems to tie them together, front to back, at the bottom.
Missing something?
Click to expand...
The space that you see I believe is for shrouds or stays to pass around the mast in those locations. My assumption of what you are asking about without seeing a photo or sketch. The space would be wider if the eye of the line has been served increasing the diameter. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
 
PT-2 said:
The space that you see I believe is for shrouds or stays to pass around the mast in those locations. My assumption of what you are asking about without seeing a photo or sketch. The space would be wider if the eye of the line has been served increasing the diameter. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
Click to expand...
Does this help ?
 

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PT-2 said:
The space that you see I believe is for shrouds or stays to pass around the mast in those locations. My assumption of what you are asking about without seeing a photo or sketch. The space would be wider if the eye of the line has been served increasing the diameter. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
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The problem I have is that the bottom of the top masts seem to be supported by the crosstree in the back and the two trestletrees and cheeks on the sides, but nothing in the front. What stops the bottom of the top mast from pivoting away?
 
Robertd said:
Does this help ?
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Yes that open space is needed for the longer cross tree to pass between the lower and upper masts as well as the lower shrouds around the lower mast. The kit uses a wooden piece instead of the metal bands on the actual BN. Rich
 
PT-2 said:
The space that you see I believe is for shrouds or stays to pass around the mast in those locations. My assumption of what you are asking about without seeing a photo or sketch. The space would be wider if the eye of the line has been served increasing the diameter. Just a thought. Rich (PT-2)
Click to expand...
I think that I didn't answer your question about securing the upper mast base to the upper part of the lower mast at the cross trees. They had a metal "gate" across the two side pieces and a tenon through to hold it vertically. The kit may just use glue as I am not building it now but my own MS2130 at 1:64 which has those pieces . . . if I can get them secured with the small pins securing the gate and just drill through with a small metal rod for the tenon.
Be careful to get the mast hoops placed before other components are glued on and access is no longer possible. Rich
 
PT-2 said:
Yes that open space is needed for the longer cross tree to pass between the lower and upper masts as well as the lower shrouds around the lower mast. The kit uses a wooden piece instead of the metal bands on the actual BN. Rich
Click to expand...
 

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PT-2 said:
I think that I didn't answer your question about securing the upper mast base to the upper part of the lower mast at the cross trees. They had a metal "gate" across the two side pieces and a tenon through to hold it vertically. The kit may just use glue as I am not building it now but my own MS2130 at 1:64 which has those pieces . . . if I can get them secured with the small pins securing the gate and just drill through with a small metal rod for the tenon.
Be careful to get the mast hoops placed before other components are glued on and access is no longer possible. Rich
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Yes, there is a piece missing. I think I will use glue, but also improvise a piece to make it appear to be mechanically sound.
Thank you all for your ideas. Great forum.
 
Away from the ship and the ocean for a few weeks.
Visiting my grandson for his first birthday in New Mexico.
No schooners around here.
Though there once were prairie schooners!!
(those were covered wagons)
 
A few questions for the experts:
Decided to spring for deadeyes and blocks from Dry-Dock. Any experience?
Deadeyes at 7 and 5mm blocks all 4mm.
The running rigging lines in the kit seem a bit fuzzy. Alternatives?
A friend suggested getting standing rigging lines with some stretch. Any ideas?
I have deduced that
C233, thick black, is for all standing rigging.
C234, medium black, is for ladder rungs.
C234, white is for all running rigging. (2 C234s!)
C235, thin black, is for tying loops.
Am I missing something?
 
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