Skonnert Bluenose POF

Finn said:
A few questions for the experts:
Decided to spring for deadeyes and blocks from Dry-Dock. Any experience?
Deadeyes at 7 and 5mm blocks all 4mm.
The running rigging lines in the kit seem a bit fuzzy. Alternatives?
A friend suggested getting standing rigging lines with some stretch. Any ideas?
I have deduced that
C233, thick black, is for all standing rigging.
C234, medium black, is for ladder rungs.
C234, white is for all running rigging. (2 C234s!)
C235, thin black, is for tying loops.
Am I missing something?
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Actually I used C233 for the standing rigging but had to drill 1/16 “ holes through the blocks to get the rope through , and Rich found the supplied rope too thick and left it to me what looks best , all the rigging I used polyester thread including the rat lines , Dry-dock blocks look superb , must say , I also used the supplied deadeyes but 4 mm blocks
 
Dry-Doc blocks and deadeyes are superb, I don't think you will find anywhere the quality even close to the one Dry-dock offers. He also supposes to have a rigging line for standing and running ropes. If the rope does not yet in stock, then check Crafty Sailor, Egor has all kinds of threads made by hand.

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Finn said:
I am Finn Brudevold, 74 years old and living in Rhode Island, USA.
(Originally from Norway)
Near Newport, of Americas Cup fame. Herreshof Cup museum down the road.
Long since retired from engineering and about to build my first ship model.
Received my YQ BN a week ago.
Did inventory and started familiarize myself with the kit and the SOS translations.
So far all good. Love CAD design accuracy and drawings.
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Hallo @Finn
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
 
Thanks for the good wishes! 75!!
Free at last. (Half way, anyway) From the jig, that is.
Though I decided to do five tiers of hull planking before cutting loose.
I thought using toothpicks through the scuppers would perfectly position the first tiers, and allow accurate cutting of the frame extensions.
Now on to the railings.
I am actually contemplating just five tiers on both sides. I have seen models like that. Comments?
I also decided to not eliminate the few planks in the deck on the port side. Seemed a bit random.


77A1B094-C351-4BF0-B884-1B12C6F7C283.jpeg
CF0497CC-AA32-45A7-91F7-E31B71265A6F.jpeg
 
Finn said:
Thanks for the good wishes! 75!!
Free at last. (Half way, anyway) From the jig, that is.
Though I decided to do five tiers of hull planking before cutting loose.
I thought using toothpicks through the scuppers would perfectly position the first tiers, and allow accurate cutting of the frame extensions.
Now on to the railings.
I am actually contemplating just five tiers on both sides. I have seen models like that. Comments?
I also decided to not eliminate the few planks in the deck on the port side. Seemed a bit random.


View attachment 238754
View attachment 238755
Click to expand...
Good job and good approach Finn! Looking great!
 
Anyone knowing the most accurate color scheme, and why can’t I get to Dean62‘s build log anymore?
 
Finn said:
Anyone knowing the most accurate color scheme, and why can’t I get to Dean62‘s build log anymore?
Click to expand...
She was painted in the traditional fishing schooner color:
Black hull to a white 3" waterline and copper paint below which is a dull red. Depending upon the year of refurbishment the cove stripe was mostly yellow but went to gold she was an ambassador. White bulkhead and stations inside along with the same for the cabin and companion way to the focs'l. Windlass and Winch along with the inboard bowsprit were white. The bowsprit was most often black.
Masts were white up to the boom jaws and then varnished or oiled natural wood, Douglas fir as were the booms and gaffs.
Rich
 
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