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"Smalschip" 17th-century Dutch inland cargo ship from plans by Ab Hoving - Build Log

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1. Build Log - "Smalschip" 17th-century Dutch inland cargo ship 1/48 scale, in paper cardstock from plans by Ab Hoving in his book "Dutch 17th Century Ship Models in Paper: An Introduction to Scratch Building Paper Ship Models," from SeaWatch Books.

I started this build because I wanted to learn the Ab Hoving method of building scale ship models in paper and cardstock. Mr. Hoving has been very helpful to me (and many others on SoS) in my pursuit of building 17th-century Dutch vessels, like the Jaght Heemskerck, the Kalmar Nyckel, and the Statenjaght Utrecht.

He has also been generous with his time and with his sharing of his ship designs and tips on his building method. His book about Dutch ship models in paper is beautiful (thanks to Emiel Hoving's book design and graphics), enlightening about 16th and 17th century Dutch ship building practices, and the book makes a great case for using paper and cardstock to build ship models in scale. As Ab Hoving has said on this forum when speaking about his paper cardstock building method, "It's so easy." I totally agree.

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All my previous attempts at building model paper kits (mostly from Eastern Europe) came up short because I found that any mistaken fold, incorrectly glued fold, or mis-cut paper parts could rarely be fixed and the traditional paper builds were very frustrating. I started and did not complete paper models of the Graf Goetzen armed cargo ship, the Centaur ocean tugboat, and the Cyclon II tugboat. I vowed not to go back to paper building until I heard of the "Ab Hoving Method" of building in paper and cardstock.

Once I saw how beautiful Ab's models were and how apparently easy the method was, I dove right in and started building the 17th-century Dutch "Smalschip." The book also has plans for "Witsen's Pinas" another 17th century merchant/naval vessel.

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Here is a picture from Ab's book of his model "Smalschip," a 60-foot long utility ship that could work far inland because it's 16-foot width could pass through standard locks that extend far into the Dutch provinces:

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I do not want to go into too much detail about Mr. Hoving's build method, because people who are interested should read some of the build logs using the method and should purchase this book from SeaWatch Books. I will also only make sparing use of pictures from the book because I want to respect Mr. Hoving's copyrights.

As to this method of building, basically using enforced cardboard, chip board, and heavy paper cardstock, I'll just say:

1. This method of building is easy, forgiving of mistakes, and if you messed up a part or component, you just have to take 5 minutes to fabricate another one.
2. The method does not require any special tools, adhesives, or substrate materials. Everything you need (except maybe EVA foam) is probably already in your shop.
3. The method allows for an incredible amount of creativity and modeler's choice - If you want to build a vessel from Amsterdam, research and use the flag of Amsterdam, you just have to fabricate the flag and paint it yourself. You can depart from the drawings and still have a good build...you are only limited by your imagination.
4. Since there is a minimal investment to get into this build method, if you don't like the outcome, just build another one.
5. The method lends itself to scratch building from plans, especially in the 1/48 and 1/96 scales.
6. Because most structural components in paper or cardstock can be soaked or impregnated with glue (CA or PVA) to make them strong (use CA) or flexible (use Elmer's glue). Cardboard soaked in CA glue is as hard as wood and can be sanded, cut and painted.


As for materials, here is what I used in building my Smalschip:

1. Paper stock in 20 lb., 65 lb., 80 lb. and 110 lb. & plastic foam (I use EVA foam because it keeps its shape when painted).

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2. Adhesives

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3. Cutting tools (shears cut cardboard very easily).
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4. Cardboard, chip board, Foamcore, or hardcover book covers, in 1mm, 2mm and 2.5 mm. When needed, the paper cardstock can be combined to thicknesses of 4 mm to 8 mm. Above 8 mm and you may want to use balsa wood.

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5. Plans -- Here are some of Ab Hoving's design drawings from the book.

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I am now almost done with my Smalschip build, but I want to spend a few build log entries showing my step-by-step build process using the Ab Hoving method.

Here are a few pics of where I am now. I am building my Smalschip before 1700 when the Prinzenvlag (House of Orange) would have been used. She is also sailing out of Amsterdam, so she flies the flag of Amsterdam. I just have to finish the skeleton rigging and add some scale figurines and then I should be done.



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2. Build Log - "Smalschip" 17th-century Dutch inland cargo ship 1/48 scale, in paper cardstock from plans by Ab Hoving.

Building Hoving's "Smalschip" from scratch, here are some early build pictures.

The build begins as a typical plank-on-frame model with bulkheads, keel and rabbet. The bulkheads are fabricated out of 2mm cardboard. The keel and planking slots are also 2mm cardboard, but supplemented by a 1-2 mm keel frame.

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Ab Hoving's method gives the builder the liberty to frame the hull as a plank-on-frame build, as a sold-hull build, or any other way you choose. I started out trying to build as plank-on-frame, but since it was my first time in this build method I had trouble keeping the frames in alignment. So after a few tries at plank-on-frame, I decided to build the hull as a solid hull. Again, so easy to make this transition to paper building once you get used to using cardboard instead of wood.

Next, putting the hull together as a solid-hull.

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Once I had my solid hull together, I spent time fairing the raw hull to ensure that the top deck reflects the cambered deck from port to starboard, and the saddleback deck from stem to stern. It took a couple of times to get both cambers right, but it is needed so the decking material can lay flat atop decks.

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Ab Hoving's ship design includes a double-planked hull. So I had to test different strengths of paper cardstock to find the right stock to use for both the under layer of planking, and then thinner paper cardstock for the outer layer of planking.

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I did alot of trial and error to find the right paper stock and the right planking diagram to create proper sized outer planks. I used a planking diagram from another model kit and just copied it onto paper cardstock. I ended up using 110 lb. paper stock for the inner planking and a 65 lb. paper stock for the outer planking.

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Top wales and keel support are cut from legal file folders, which usually have a perfect 1.5 mm thickness. If you use this method, you will always need to think, "how thick must this component be in order for it to be stable, to fit with other members, and to stay rigid. I infused diluted Elmer's glue and CA glue into some bulkheads to add stability to the build.

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Once the planking is complete (I redid the outer planking 4 or 5 times to find the correct width of the planks for a 1/48 scale model), next step is to build the upper, middle, and lower wales in strips of foam. I am using EVA foams because it keeps it's form even when painted.
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3. Build Log - "Smalschip" 17th-century Dutch inland cargo ship 1/48 scale, in paper cardstock from plans by Ab Hoving.

At this point in the build, I am experimenting with different materials, different thicknesses of card paperstock, and different adhesives. Each step seems so rational and sensible -- finding ways to solve problems and using common sense to make a beautiful model. After planking, I am focusing on the deck furnishings (windlass, horses, hatches, main hatch, cabin, bilge pumps, and leeboard). Then focusing on shoring up the keel, stempost and sternpost, with additional 1.5 mm layers of legal file cardboard.

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The leeboards gave me a bit of a problem because I kept going back and forth between fabricating them from card stock or using 1-2mm bass wood for a grained look. In the end, I decided to build the leeboards from 3 sheets of 1 mm card stock washed with diluted Elmer's glue for strength.

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Mr. Hoving advises that all scale models should be populated with scale human figures to show off the dimensions of the ship and to give it a realistic look and feel. In his book he writes, "One of the advantages of adding figures is that the scale of the model suddenly becomes clear to the viewer, The human size works as a reference." "17th Century Dutch Ship Models," page 51.

It took a while to find miniature human figures in 1/48 or 1/50 scale. I tried different figures in 1/64, 1/50, 1/48 and 1/32 scales and am still waiting on another set of figurines in 1/48.

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4. Build Log - "Smalschip" 17th-century Dutch inland cargo ship 1/48 scale, in paper cardstock from plans by Ab Hoving.

Not going to say much here. Just putting out pictures from the vast middle part of this build, in between planking and rigging.

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And at this point, I started to think about what flags I would like to use. I did my research into the history of the flags of the Netherlands. If this ship were operating before 1765, it would have flown either the orange/white/blue flag of the Princes of Orange (the "Prinzenvlag") or the flag of the Seven Provinces, which would become a republic around 1800 (the red/white/blue "Statenvlag"). Another option is the complete orange standard of the House of Orange. I also wanted to represent her as allied with a particular province or city, so I chose to fly the flag of Amsterdam at the stern. I do like that the color orange is associated deeply in the hearts of Nederlanders, so I went with the Prinzenvlag and the triple-X flag of Amsterdam. I fabricated the Amsterdam flag using water-slide decals on 65 lb. cardstock. I fabricated the Prinzenvlag, Statenvlag, and Orange standard using 80 lb. cardstock and orange and blue painters' tape.

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