Soleil Royal - Heller 1/100 Back to work!

Very impresive achievement. it is not easy to finish a plastic hull to make it look like wood the way you have done with this model.
Are you planning to scratch build the mast and yards from wood?
This is a build I will also follow.
 
Bluebeard said:
Very impresive achievement. it is not easy to finish a plastic hull to make it look like wood the way you have done with this model.
Are you planning to scratch build the mast and yards from wood?
This is a build I will also follow.
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Thanks for the nice words Bluebeard!

I will scratch build the masts and yards from brass and plastic, the same way I did the bowsprit mast already installed. Brass do have the weight/rigidity advantage comparing to plastic or wood at this scale. It is a very good option for these parts in my opinion.
 
Dfolgado said:
Still working in the head…

Gammoning done ✅
Head grating done ✅
Head timbers installed ✅
Head stay done on both sides of the head ✅
Rack block secure both sides gammoning ✅
”Garde corps“ in place from sprit top to the breakhead bulkhead ✅ I had to take some guesses here, because there is not a lot of info regarding this rope setup

Please tell me your thought about this…

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Duarte,

Yours is a magnificently painted ship model! The only one that compares belongs to Marc (Hubac's Historian). Both are quite impressive albeit different.

Bill
 
dafi said:
Here is a link to the books description
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for the completeness

Book review - VERSAILLES DER MEERE – Die barocken Segelschiffe Ludwigs XIV. im Kontext ihrer Zeit" by Bernd Monath

Book Review: VERSAILLES DER MEERE Die barocken Segelschiffe Ludwigs XIV. im Kontext ihrer Zeit by Bernd Monath Gebundene Ausgabe: 328 Seiten Verlag: Frank & Timme (1. September 2016) Sprache: Deutsch ISBN-10: 3732902676 ISBN-13: 978-3732902675 Größe und/oder Gewicht: 21,5 x 2,1 x 30,2 cm...
shipsofscale.com
 
Still trying to find a method for making the channels links.

After Marc suggestion, I’m trying to follow Andre Kudin’s method of fabricating the links with brass wire, which I consider simply fantastic!

The upper link came out very well in my opinion, this is 0,6 mm brass wire medium hard. The solder holds up very well, I think it will be enough to work on it.

I tried with brass and cooper, the cooper is soft and for this not so good. I prefer the medium hard brass.

The dimensions are not right, this was just an experience, I’ll later have to design the correct shape for the links and make the jigs.

Next will be the middle link, the toe link and the preventer link…


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What I found particularly interesting about this German title was that it’s translation of Hyatt’s monograph from French to German, translated beautifully from German to English. My translation from French to English was much less clear.
 
After so many years and ideas in my “head” I am now facing the reality!

Is it possible to make reasonable gun tackles for 12 pounders at 1:100 scale?

Probably not…

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I did learn some things with this, but I’m not fully satisfied, I’m facing too many difficulties:

Everything is very small, but looks large! The blocks are 2 mm length and the hooks are 1,5 mm length. The tackle thread is 0,20 mm diameter (3 strands). The problem with 1:100 scale is that everything is very small but at the same time very visible…

The thread, which I previously paint, does not hold the paint with the white glue, that gives the thread some weight and makes it look more real. I paint it with vinyl acrylic (Model Color), which is fairly permanent, but does not hold on with white glue! Big disappointment. The thread without water or white glue just looks horrible. I’m trying now other options for painting the thread that can hold the white glue application…

The block’s dimensions looks right for 12 pounders, but if the gun is at it’s forward position (like it should be as they where fixed), they do not look good. I think I just have to hook the tackles far back in the gun carriages.

And finally, the amount of work to do this is absolutely crazy! There should be much better ways of doing this. Any ideas are welcome..
 
Us perfectionists are our own worst critics. Your tackles do look good with the 2mm blocks but maybe 1.5mm might be the ticket, these are readily available. I use acrylics for tinting my lines but paint them first and then use thinned PVA to add some stiffness to create sag. Your SR is gorgeous.

Michael D.
 
Michael said:
Us perfectionists are our own worst critics. Your tackles do look good with the 2mm blocks but maybe 1.5mm might be the ticket, these are readily available. I use acrylics for tinting my lines but paint them first and then use thinned PVA to add some stiffness to create sag. Your SR is gorgeous.

Michael D.
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Hi Michael,

I guess you are right! :)

The problem is that these guns are 12 pounders, and according to all my references these blocks should be around 2 mm in length (about 200 mm in reality), but the fact is they really look big. If it were a 36 pounder, maybe the blocks could look a bit more proportional…

Where you can find 1,5 mm blocks? I had planned 1,7-1,8 mm for the 8 pounders for the upper decks, but I don’t really know how I will rig them… these small blocks I will scratch build from plastic card.

I found already that the PVA glue is OK, if you don’t rub it a lot. If you apply the PVA as the last step, that’s OK, but if you have to handle the rope after the PVA, that would be the problem. Today, I tried to tint the rope with the old trusty Tamiya acrylics and it seams to hold the white glue well. Maybe this is the solution here.

Still keep making experiences on this…
 
Michael said:
Hi Dfolgado,

Dry-Dock Models has those 1.5mm blocks. I've never had any issues handling the line after applying PVA and Tamiya acrylics is what I use also.

Michael D.
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Thanks a lot Michael! That’s a great shop with some great products that I didn’t knew about…

I’ll try their blocks and probably deadeyes also, they are so time consuming for scratch build!
 
Duarte, I am experiencing all of the same issues you are, regarding scale. Like you, I have decided to go with that particular diameter thread, rather than use scale rope. Is the thread you are using cotton, or some kind of synthetic?
 
Hubac’s Historian said:
Duarte, I am experiencing all of the same issues you are, regarding scale. Like you, I have decided to go with that particular diameter thread, rather than use scale rope. Is the thread you are using cotton, or some kind of synthetic?
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Hi Marc,

The thread is 100% cotton.

As you know I make my own threads, this one is a 3 strand rope made of wt100 cotton line.

It is the smallest 3 strand rope that I can make! The single cotton line is about 0,10 mm in diameter, 3 layded strands ends up with an approximate diameter of 0,2 mm.

It did look much better before the painting came off with the PVA glue…

Not an easy task rigging these guns!

And these are the 12 pounders, now, one can imagine the 8 pounders…
 
I had been using polyester thread for these tackles. Do you think I’ll be able to drape and sag them with dilute PVA glue. I haven’t done any experiments on this yet, but I should probably figure that out before I go too far. I like the polyester because it does not have hairy fibers coming out of the weave. If you wax natural fiber line before the PVA, it won’t absorb the glue.
 
Hubac’s Historian said:
I had been using polyester thread for these tackles. Do you think I’ll be able to drape and sag them with dilute PVA glue. I haven’t done any experiments on this yet, but I should probably figure that out before I go too far. I like the polyester because it does not have hairy fibers coming out of the weave. If you wax natural fiber line before the PVA, it won’t absorb the glue.
Click to expand...

Hi Marc,

I never tried polyester thread, I don’t know how it will work with the PVA glue.

But, I don’t see any reason to go bad. The major problem with PVA is the painted lines, but as you don’t paint your ropes, you should be OK.
 
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