There’s a bunch of them. I find it kind of relaxing and mind numbing. Back and shoulders hurt after a while.Tying ratlines seem to go on forever. This is NOT my favorite part of a build - at all.
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There’s a bunch of them. I find it kind of relaxing and mind numbing. Back and shoulders hurt after a while.Tying ratlines seem to go on forever. This is NOT my favorite part of a build - at all.
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Exemplary, Paul!The lower ratlines are now finished. I will probably need a higher chair as I start the upper ones, and yes my back aches!
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HI paul... I am about a year behind you in my build. How did you get piece # 64 (the lower cannon support) to bend around the bow. I am thinking of using an old curling iron to help bend it. I do not want to put it in hot water afraid that it will de laminate. thanks KenI"ve got the gunport patterns installed. You really need to carefully measure to get them installed correctly. I still had to cut out several bulkheads and deck sections to make room for the dummy cannon boxes. This is also my first try at using the brass nails. Not pretty. I'll remove them when everything is set, everything will be covered up with the next layer. My feet give an idea of the scale. It's big.
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It's in post number 83HI paul... I am about a year behind you in my build. How did you get piece # 64 (the lower cannon support) to bend around the bow. I am thinking of using an old curling iron to help bend it. I do not want to put it in hot water afraid that it will de laminate. thanks Ken
Ken, am sure Paul will respond but here’s what I did. I used a soldering iron with no tip and did not use any water and it bent easily. If you scorch an area it won’t be seen.HI paul... I am about a year behind you in my build. How did you get piece # 64 (the lower cannon support) to bend around the bow. I am thinking of using an old curling iron to help bend it. I do not want to put it in hot water afraid that it will de laminate. thanks Ken
Thank youKen, am sure Paul will respond but here’s what I did. I used a soldering iron with no tip and did not use any water and it bent easily. If you scorch an area it won’t be seen.
Fantastic effort and beautiful detail! Impressive sails to say the least! WOW!I've finished the yardarms. The center octagonal part is made up of precut cherry square sections - I filed flats on the corners to produce and octagonal cross section. I used my lathe to taper the outer sections then drilled centered holes in the end of each of the parts. The center and outer sections were glued together with dowels. Also pictured are the sails I've purchased (Mantua Art. 34010). I've scribed additional pencil lines which will be sewn over to represent reef bands and reenforcement sections. After that is done I will sew in reefing lines then paint and weather the sails.
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Plus, I'm trying to find the part # for the rail capping. Before the fencing goes on. Thank youHI paul,, your work looks great.. I am working on same... Maybe you can help me clear some of the instructions. I'm on about pgs 17-18. Did you reline the hull inside to make it thicker with item #p1 (2x6mm) to build up thickness, then cover with #p3 (.5x6mm beech) This is the inside of the hull. Next to the decking. Thank you
I think I answered my own question, but not sure. The hull thickness is 2mm, then add the outer .5mm, then the inner .5mm for a total of 3 mm Or should it be thicker? by adding an inner layer (2mm, part P1) Plus the cap rain is part P5, Correct? the Zhl directions are a bit confusing.Plus, I'm trying to find the part # for the rail capping. Before the fencing goes on. Thank you
I think that's what I did. I have more build pictures here:I think I answered my own question, but not sure. The hull thickness is 2mm, then add the outer .5mm, then the inner .5mm for a total of 3 mm Or should it be thicker? by adding an inner layer (2mm, part P1) Plus the cap rain is part P5, Correct? the Zhl directions are a bit confusing.