Soleil Royal - ZHL 1/90 Scale by Paulb

Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
638
Points
198

Location
Roswell, Ga
I"ve got the gunport patterns installed. You really need to carefully measure to get them installed correctly. I still had to cut out several bulkheads and deck sections to make room for the dummy cannon boxes. This is also my first try at using the brass nails. Not pretty. I'll remove them when everything is set, everything will be covered up with the next layer. My feet give an idea of the scale. It's big.
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HI paul... I am about a year behind you in my build. How did you get piece # 64 (the lower cannon support) to bend around the bow. I am thinking of using an old curling iron to help bend it. I do not want to put it in hot water afraid that it will de laminate. thanks Ken
 
Joined
Nov 10, 2019
Messages
638
Points
198

Location
Roswell, Ga
HI paul... I am about a year behind you in my build. How did you get piece # 64 (the lower cannon support) to bend around the bow. I am thinking of using an old curling iron to help bend it. I do not want to put it in hot water afraid that it will de laminate. thanks Ken
It's in post number 83
 
Joined
Mar 9, 2021
Messages
42
Points
48

HI paul... I am about a year behind you in my build. How did you get piece # 64 (the lower cannon support) to bend around the bow. I am thinking of using an old curling iron to help bend it. I do not want to put it in hot water afraid that it will de laminate. thanks Ken
Ken, am sure Paul will respond but here’s what I did. I used a soldering iron with no tip and did not use any water and it bent easily. If you scorch an area it won’t be seen.
 
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
346
Points
313

Location
Provo, Utah
I've finished the yardarms. The center octagonal part is made up of precut cherry square sections - I filed flats on the corners to produce and octagonal cross section. I used my lathe to taper the outer sections then drilled centered holes in the end of each of the parts. The center and outer sections were glued together with dowels. Also pictured are the sails I've purchased (Mantua Art. 34010). I've scribed additional pencil lines which will be sewn over to represent reef bands and reenforcement sections. After that is done I will sew in reefing lines then paint and weather the sails.
IMG_1464.jpgIMG_1467.jpgIMG_1475.jpgIMG_1476.jpgIMG_1470.jpgIMG_1471.jpgIMG_1472.jpgIMG_1473.jpgIMG_1474.jpg
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2021
Messages
245
Points
113

I've finished the yardarms. The center octagonal part is made up of precut cherry square sections - I filed flats on the corners to produce and octagonal cross section. I used my lathe to taper the outer sections then drilled centered holes in the end of each of the parts. The center and outer sections were glued together with dowels. Also pictured are the sails I've purchased (Mantua Art. 34010). I've scribed additional pencil lines which will be sewn over to represent reef bands and reenforcement sections. After that is done I will sew in reefing lines then paint and weather the sails.
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Fantastic effort and beautiful detail! Impressive sails to say the least! WOW!
 
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
346
Points
313

Location
Provo, Utah
All of the ratlines are finished – the end of the 1000's of clove hitchs!! Now I can move on to more interesting stuff – like the sails. The sails have been stitched with additional details representing reenforced panels and coated with Minwax Pickeled Oak stain. They are shown here drying in my workroom.IMG_1492.jpgIMG_1490.jpgIMG_1491.jpg
 
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
346
Points
313

Location
Provo, Utah
6/9/2021 I've now finished all 12 sails. The sewing of the lashings and fabric treatment is complete. In treating the fabric I first gave them a wash of slightly diluted (with water) Golden GAC-400, then I airbrushed them with Flory's weathering wash (grey) then finally sprayed them with Tamiya clear flat from the rattle can (see pic below). I've now attached and rigged the first two sails as shown here:IMG_1550.jpgIMG_1548.jpgIMG_1549.jpg
 
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Joined
May 27, 2021
Messages
100
Points
68

HI paul,, your work looks great.. I am working on same... Maybe you can help me clear some of the instructions. I'm on about pgs 17-18. Did you reline the hull inside to make it thicker with item #p1 (2x6mm) to build up thickness, then cover with #p3 (.5x6mm beech) This is the inside of the hull. Next to the decking. Thank you
 
Joined
May 27, 2021
Messages
100
Points
68

HI paul,, your work looks great.. I am working on same... Maybe you can help me clear some of the instructions. I'm on about pgs 17-18. Did you reline the hull inside to make it thicker with item #p1 (2x6mm) to build up thickness, then cover with #p3 (.5x6mm beech) This is the inside of the hull. Next to the decking. Thank you
Plus, I'm trying to find the part # for the rail capping. Before the fencing goes on. Thank you
 
Joined
May 27, 2021
Messages
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Points
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Plus, I'm trying to find the part # for the rail capping. Before the fencing goes on. Thank you
I think I answered my own question, but not sure. The hull thickness is 2mm, then add the outer .5mm, then the inner .5mm for a total of 3 mm Or should it be thicker? by adding an inner layer (2mm, part P1) Plus the cap rain is part P5, Correct? the Zhl directions are a bit confusing.
 
Joined
Aug 27, 2017
Messages
346
Points
313

Location
Provo, Utah
I think I answered my own question, but not sure. The hull thickness is 2mm, then add the outer .5mm, then the inner .5mm for a total of 3 mm Or should it be thicker? by adding an inner layer (2mm, part P1) Plus the cap rain is part P5, Correct? the Zhl directions are a bit confusing.
I think that's what I did. I have more build pictures here:
 
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