Thanks Nigel. Yes, it is somewhat of a mystery in a lot of areas so we have to be creative in our interpretaion of the Sovereign. Keeping in mind that the Payne engraving, the Ven de Velde sketch and other representations from the period were done by individuals viewing the ship, it is easy to see why they vary. These artists were the reporters of the day and we have only their work to look at in order to see what the ship looked like. Yes, a time machine would be very helpful at times as some areas of the ship remain unseen in the works described. Research into other ships of that period are helpful like the Vasa in order to get an idea of what some aspects might have been like. If we all brought our models into the same room, I am sure they would differ in many respects.Excellent work Bill and great to see you back at the build.The great thing about this vessel is so much is down to the interpretation of the modelbuilder.To my knowledge,yourself,Janos,Hubert from Germany(sorry his surname escapes me) and myself are all working from Busmann's book and other contemporary sources and still have differences because despite all the research there are still many grey areas.I think that is what makes this vessel so interesting to build in model form.None of us could be proved wrong,you would need a time machine to do that.There would be some interesting arguments if any of us entered our build in a competition,something along the lines of Naviga.
I have sent you an email,hope it finds you ok
Here is a series of pictures of the fixtures used. The first photo is of the sliding table fixture sitting on the Byrnes saw.Hi Bill, Is there a way you can show close-up photos for sliding table jig? If it not difficult to build I would at least try...as I have typical trouble with alignment.
Thanks Janos.Great job, Bill, as always. I lack (and envy) the consistency of your build. I also made the gratings on my SoS on the circular saw, but with the conventional method - creating the comb-like pieces and then assembling them into each other. I just have to find the blade of tge proper thickness for it.
Thanks Knut, I appreciate your comments. If you scroll up the page from this post, you will see a series of photos of the sliding table. The third photo shows a secondary jig which is mounted to the sliding table for cutting the slots in the deck grate. It includes a strip of 0.032” boxwood glued to the surface at a distance of 0.032” from the saw blade. It is the guide for positioning the block when making successive cuts in order to space them the correct distance apart. You simply index the block of wood to the right aligning the previous slot in the boxwood strip to obtain the 0.032” distance between slots. After cutting all the slots in one direction, you turn the wood 90 degrees and cut the slots perpindicular to the first set. I hope that explains it.Bill, fine work with deck grating,do you use the sliding table to make it ?, it would have been exciting to see how it is done, thank you.
Great work Bill.I have one question.I notice you have what looks like an assembly jig.I assume it is dilute PVA in the yellow container.Does this not stick the grating to the jig as well as stick the grating together?Or do you remove the grating from the jig prior to gluing?
Yes, that is correct. I sand down the top surface after gluing in the battens. As they are only 0.032” deep, it would be risky to sand the back side down to allow the holes to go right through. At a normal viewing distance the holes appear natural.Bill,yes it does,the penny has dropped,The ledges are all in one piece with battens glued in.I originally thought both were individual pieces and you had cut grooves in boxwood sheet to aid assembly.I have done it your way with pearwood but using my Proxxon Mill.I then reduced the thickness removing the 'backing' on the disc sander when the glue had thoroughly set.This also opens the holes up so you can see through it.