Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal 1:78 (with hopefully many added details)

Hi all,

Wanted to plank the kit provided pre-scored decks. Scored lines made the work much easier. Pear wood 3X.5mm – will use the same for other decks as well.

Used a Faber Castell Pitt Artist Pen for caulking lines. Drilled .3mm holes for the treenails, then used a .5mm mechanical pencil to slightly highlight the drilled holes. For the main deck gratings will add some details including a railing and ladder for access to the upper gun deck - per McKay's images.
Thanks for your comments, likes or just taking a look

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oldflyer said:
Hi all,

Wanted to plank the kit provided pre-scored decks. Scored lines made the work much easier. Pear wood 3X.5mm – will use the same for other decks as well.

Used a Faber Castell Pitt Artist Pen for caulking lines. Drilled .3mm holes for the treenails, then used a .5mm mechanical pencil to slightly highlight the drilled holes. For the main deck gratings will add some details including a railing and ladder for access to the upper gun deck - per McKay's images.
Thanks for your comments, likes or just taking a look

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Click to expand...
Beautiful work John! You mentioned treenails. What will you use? I'm thinking about adding some treenails to my hull (the original ship had both tree nails and iron nails) but need to do some experimenting. Any advice might shorten my learning curve. Thanks much!
 
dockattner said:
Beautiful work John! You mentioned treenails. What will you use? I'm thinking about adding some treenails to my hull (the original ship had both tree nails and iron nails) but need to do some experimenting. Any advice might shorten my learning curve. Thanks much!
Click to expand...
Nice deck over-planking with your very precise nailing pattern. It well show of well when finish is applied. How wide are the deck planks? My Bluenose has only 1/8 inch width for those which makes marked nailing difficult with uniformity on the two nail plank butt ends and POB no real support beneath so I had some sagging planks and lower nibbed ends where they did not terminate on a bulkhead but in between. Bamboo toothpicks would be too large for the 1/64 scale so pencil marks will be my approach as you have used. Rich (PT-2)
 
dockattner said:
Beautiful work John! You mentioned treenails. What will you use? I'm thinking about adding some treenails to my hull (the original ship had both tree nails and iron nails) but need to do some experimenting. Any advice might shorten my learning curve. Thanks much!
Click to expand...
PT-2 thanks for your kind comment - planks are 3mm wide and .5mm thickness - toothpicks would have been too large here as well.

Kurt had made a comment about the treenails that I used for the stern - will add a few images of how I did this. Time consuming but very simple actually.

Paul: For the SOtS lower hull treenails to be determined - need to play around with pear wood first. Never used this wood before. Will most likely use a wood filler after drilling 1000s of holes in lower hull (yikes)
Regarding your Vasa you might want to try this, as the Vasa indeed had many metal cleats attached to the hull - The use of ties that are used for model train hobbyists worked well for this Corel Vasa.
Cleats are also 'pushed" into the planks so as to lie a bit flatter as well as not losing its proper alignment "look" Last image shows the two size railroad cleats.

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oldflyer said:
PT-2 thanks for your kind comment - planks are 3mm wide and .5mm thickness - toothpicks would have been too large here as well.

Kurt had made a comment about the treenails that I used for the stern - will add a few images of how I did this. Time consuming but very simple actually.

Paul: For the SOtS lower hull treenails to be determined - need to play around with pear wood first. Never used this wood before. Will most likely use a wood filler after drilling 1000s of holes in lower hull (yikes)
Regarding your Vasa you might want to try this, as the Vasa indeed had many metal cleats attached to the hull - The use of ties that are used for model train hobbyists worked well for this Corel Vasa.
Cleats are also 'pushed" into the planks so as to lie a bit flatter as well as not losing its proper alignment "look" Last image shows the two size railroad cleats.

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I hope that you didn't get carpel tunnel from all of that nailing. Your focus on small detailing is well spent. Rich (PT-2)
 
oldflyer said:
Brian: much appreciated welcome aboard as well thanks

Stargazer: Your question got me interested - I had put all of the decorative blister packs away and ignored them - for now. Taking a look it appears as if the only casting difference is in the first two images below. All other 650+ bits are the same. That said, I got interested in possible casting differences from the vintage to the current issue. PS: The vintage kit had a black box )not the current green), no pre-printed main deck,

With some preliminary observations It indeed appears as if the electroplating will scrape off revealing a whitish metal below. I did the same for a vintage bit and the bronze stayed 'Bronze"

The bronze does not have the sheen of the new bits. They have been in a box for 30 years. I will clean them, polish them (I think) then clear-coat them.
Here are some other images FYI.


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Vintage castings are better quality for sure! Certainly they aren't still using the old molds? Because that is what the new castings look like, as if a worn out mold made them!
 
Dean: The original molds must be over 30+ years old - doubtful still in use? - As you noted the bronze castings are indeed superior to the white metal electroplated current castings.

Heinrich: thanks for your kind words - Will also plank hull with pear 5mm X .5 - will also probably lightly stain some ot the planks to allow
for visual differences in planks coming various trees - need to study and find out if the outer hull planks for this vintage English ship also included caulking.
Some builders do add the look to great effect, though most do not. Hmmm??
 
Kurt,
They are great - been trading with them for a long time --

Cornwall Model Boats Ltd

Suppliers of quality model ship and model boat kits, model boats, model boat fittings, hardware, radio controlled and static display models available. Our Worldwide mail order service offers modellers with a large range of model ship kits, ship fittings, ship plans, building materials, books and...
www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk
 
Kurt,
And per your comment about treenails - here is an idea. Images speak for themselves. IMO this is an improvement from using pointed toothpicks
for at least two reasons 1) the basswood treenails fit snugly within the drilled holes being cylindrical and not having pointed tips. 2) cutting with a razor blade allows a smooth cut given the softness of the wood. I've improved my technique since the transom efforts from a previous post.
Regards,

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oldflyer said:
Kurt,
And per your comment about treenails - here is an idea. Images speak for themselves. IMO this is an improvement from using pointed toothpicks
for at least two reasons 1) the basswood treenails fit snugly within the drilled holes being cylindrical and not having pointed tips. 2) cutting with a razor blade allows a smooth cut given the softness of the wood. I've improved my technique since the transom efforts from a previous post.
Regards,

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These look very good in the process. Please let me know the source of your draw tool as it appears correct for our needs as my own drill size plate is too large and not formed for shaping. Thanks, Rich (PT-2)
 
Hello Rich, The best drawplate for wooden treenails, and it is proven by many modelers across the globe, is Byrnes's drawplate. He designed\made specifically for wood. It is a good price compared to the siblings made for the Jewelry needs. A person who owned one will never regret it. I use mine for about 7 years and still.

Byrnes Model Machines - Drawplate

Byrnes Model Machines produces precision-engineered miniature Table Saws and Thickness Sanders for Ship Modelers, Dollhouse Makers and Model Railroad Builders; every machine has an accuracy measured in thousandths of an inch.
www.byrnesmodelmachines.com
 
Jim - good choice - there was one on Amazon (many on Ebay) that I was going to add a link for ($13.00), but supporting a Byrnes product, given his expertise, and commitment to this hobby makes that drawplate the best. I had purchased mine years ago - don't know from whom prob. eBay.

Very useful tool that is so easy to use while watching Netflix :D
 
oldflyer said:
Jim - good choice - there was one on Amazon (many on Ebay) that I was going to add a link for ($13.00), but supporting a Byrnes product, given his expertise, and commitment to this hobby makes that drawplate the best. I had purchased mine years ago - don't know from whom prob. eBay.

Very useful tool that is so easy to use while watching Netflix :D
Click to expand...
Order placed and thanks for the link. Rich (PT-2)
 
Hi all,
Work still in progress playing with some added ideas; Images speak for themselves so keeping notes fairly brief.

•Upper deck gun rails and frames
•Hull doors
•Entering platforms

This SotS will not result in a historically accurate 1637 ship, under any circumstances (well it’s a Sergal kit for one thing) and no other kits exist today that were closer to the 1:1s first iteration – I don’t have the skill set for scratch, OR carvings – and the Amati has been discontinued and very rarely seen even on eBay – so enjoying this project with no expectations of any historical accuracy. Note: the wale scarf joints. Drilled holes - added black nylon fishing line to add highlights

As always thanks for your very kind comments, likes, or just having a look. PS: Poss. too many images this time so posted them in thumbnail format.

Regards,


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oldflyer said:
Hi all,
Work still in progress playing with some added ideas; Images speak for themselves so keeping notes fairly brief.

•Upper deck gun rails and frames
•Hull doors
•Entering platforms

This SotS will not result in a historically accurate 1637 ship, under any circumstances (well it’s a Sergal kit for one thing) and no other kits exist today that were closer to the 1:1s first iteration – I don’t have the skill set for scratch, OR carvings – and the Amati has been discontinued and very rarely seen even on eBay – so enjoying this project with no expectations of any historical accuracy. Note: the wale scarf joints. Drilled holes - added black nylon fishing line to add highlights

As always thanks for your very kind comments, likes, or just having a look. PS: Poss. too many images this time so posted them in thumbnail format.

Regards,


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John, the doors with their hinges are fantastic. Did those parts come with your kit or sourced elsewhere?
 
FYI:
Trying to absorb details from the McKay book I found this (image 1). Seen, of course, before, but thought where could I find miniature Roman numerals that might just work for this project?
“Google University” (to think that any question from this planet IS answered from a search at Google) and that search brought these up. Could just be perfect
– if not just maybe a tad out of scale? – So sharing a great IMO find. source link below images

Regards,

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https://www.hfminis.co.uk/shop?prod...gory=accessories~etched-brass-(architectural)
 
Hi Mates,

Have not posted in a while also need to catch up with the great builds that I am following as well. So minor update – still waiting for bits from Cornwall – not their fault; international flights, USPS mail both almost out of business…..

So in the meantime worked on the capstan, bilge pumps, triple fiddle block for main lower main yard hail, kevels, and main deck gratings; the Sergal provided pumps and capstan were actually quite good.

Added some details but all in all fairly satisfied with these bits. The gratings Sergal provided (laser etched) I did not plan on using, much the same with the pre scored decks. the next update should be substantial - much completed work on sidelines need bits to arrive, then I can attach the main deck along with upper hull side railings and added details that I have added. As always thanks so much for looking in. likes and such .....

Here are some images.


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