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I apologize but I'm still confused as to what dimensions and lengths of boards are needed!

Looking at all the current builds the only list of lumber I see is what Tony P lists for his current build:
"70 pcs 1"x24"x7/32
34 pcs 1.5"x24"x7/32"

If these represent the actual requirements then I'm good but there seems to be lots of conversations about this subject but none listing the amount of wood needed (or at least what I could find) except for Tony's build log.

I can't find any specific listing in the book by Delacroix.

I apologize - this will be my first scratch build so I'm in real amateur mode and I don't want to start off with not enough or too much wood.

Thanks.
 
jgilchrist said:
I apologize but I'm still confused as to what dimensions and lengths of boards are needed!

Looking at all the current builds the only list of lumber I see is what Tony P lists for his current build:
"70 pcs 1"x24"x7/32
34 pcs 1.5"x24"x7/32"

If these represent the actual requirements then I'm good but there seems to be lots of conversations about this subject but none listing the amount of wood needed (or at least what I could find) except for Tony's build log.

I can't find any specific listing in the book by Delacroix.

I apologize - this will be my first scratch build so I'm in real amateur mode and I don't want to start off with not enough or too much wood.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
Hi, sorry, but if you build from scratch, why don't you prepare the wood too?
 
Tony P said:
Treenails, Bolts, Nails , where ? Which material ? I'm not sure which ship I was looking at in the past ( I'm in info overload right now and cant find it) but I seem to treenails, iron bolts and nails being used. Anyone have this info ? I do remember though that the frames were held by square headed nails or bolts on Le R. I was going to use undyed toothpicks for treenails and brass rod for nails and bolts. I don't mind the look of bare brass so I may go that route. Has anyone found more info on this than me ?
Click to expand...
Hello Tony, unfortunately I cannot say for sure whether it is exactly the same at Le Rochefort as at La Palme, but I assume so. Here is a picture of the monograph - it should be exactly the same at Le Rochefort.
196900F8-7DD7-4B4A-B968-EE665DFF2506.jpeg

55B06826-58C2-4080-877B-CD0EE34D670A.jpeg

827C73B0-B70C-47B4-BB06-E91BBE0CD983.jpeg
 
Tony,
I am like you - that is always a mystery. The only thing I have seen w using square bolt heads is in the Sorolla book where he makes very thin square ebony 'sticks' and drives them into the frames. Of course, he also made holes in the frames, but the square ebony would 'fill up' the round hole and make a square nail shape.
 
Yes I don’t know if I’ll go that route. Unless I go for the 1mmx1mm square wood that the German wood supplier has.
 
1 x 1 mm (any wood) can be dipped in India Ink. I used India Ink on the Wales of my Blandford. It soaks all the way into the wood fairly quickly and once dry, it will not smudge or bleed into the surrounding surfaces. You can cut the tips off and it will still be black (as the ink soaks all the way through).
This is what I used.

119834_1[5].jpg
 
Yea I used RIT dye in my Blandford wood to blacken it. The ink is better I’m sure as the dye was very smudgy. That supplier has walnut which is dark already that may do. ?
 
Donnie said:
1 x 1 mm (any wood) can be dipped in India Ink. I used India Ink on the Wales of my Blandford. It soaks all the way into the wood fairly quickly and once dry, it will not smudge or bleed into the surrounding surfaces. You can cut the tips off and it will still be black (as the ink soaks all the way through).
This is what I used.

119834_1[5].jpg
Click to expand...
I agree with Donnie. I tried several home recipes to ebonize wood including soaking steel wool in vinegar for a week… The easiest and most reliable IMHO is either dipping or brushing India Ink.
 
Tony has a good point too is just to use any other dark wood. I guess it depends on the "look" you are after. I remember Mike41 telling me that he was not building a ship like it was on the "showroom floor" LOL. , but rather a taste of age.
 
Yes, I don’t really think it matters I’d rather have them subtle too. Even square vs round isn’t so important to me. It’s either dark wood or brass for me but I will not blacken the brass.
 
I do not have milling tools. I guess I use the list of woods reported by "Tony P" to purchase the wood requirements, unless someone has a different list.
 
That list I believe is for the Hahn method of framing that I’m using. It’ll work for normal framing methods though also.
These are per Adrian Sorolla. The correct thickness is 6.75 for the keel. The book is misprinted we think.

F91381EC-AE71-44C1-A9DA-A5069860FE62.png

2115D2E6-BC58-4A05-AB21-CA770AF165E6.jpeg
 
That list I believe is for the Hahn method of framing that I’m using. It’ll work for normal framing methods though also. These are per Adrian Sorolla. The correct thickness is 6.75 for the axial structure. We think the book was a misprint.

72D39D3E-1CD6-4D1E-A900-CAB95A5AF164.jpeg

2BB191DF-C462-4F4A-918F-684E9B8ECF14.png
 
Hi John. I believe Tony’s list is only for the frames. You’ll (we’ll) need a bunch more for the hull planking, deck planking, deck furniture, masts etc…
 
OlivierF said:
Hi John. I believe Tony’s list is only for the frames. You’ll (we’ll) need a bunch more for the hull planking, deck planking, deck furniture, masts etc…
Click to expand...
Yes indeed. It does take a very long time to get to that stage though so that can be bought much later.
 
Tony,
I feel a need to mention to you about blackening. Unless you or anyone (including myself) is not careful - that blackening agent can and will smear - yes - even after you think it is cured so to speak. When I did my Belle Poule cannons, it took a lot of work (at least I thought it did) to blacken the brass cannons so that the blackening would NOT rub off on anything. However, you might have a technique that I am not familiar with and if so, just disregard this message. The nice thing about the brass rod is that it is so easy to work with. Dimensionally sound throughout the length of it - cut it and go. However, I thought I saw somewhere that someone installed the brass rod first and then blackened the ends. The reason is that hammering them in might (again) rub that black finish off tapping it with a hammer. Or you may have to go the route of just pressing them in. Clearly, I am running my mouth and not an expert as you can tell --- LOL.
ps - also adding to your anxiety !!!!
 
Donnie, maybe you misread. I will not blacken brass. As you said it bleeds, once it’s black you can barely handle it and the black comes off. It’s not worth the trouble. If I end up using it it’s staying brass. Steel would be better as it will oxidize sooner or later.
 
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