Thanks Janet..
Sultana - Colonial Schooner, 1767 - by MS, Scale 1:64 [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter moreplovac
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Thanks Janet..
The new set of deadeyes from ModelShipways have arrived.. 5mm, 4mm and 3.5mm. One of these sizes will be scaled enough to get installed on the ship...
Beautiful model, love the small details.
Thanks Maarten.
The wrongly oriented tiller has been created from scratch; the old one simple broke..
the new one was made out of piece of basswood, shaped and attached to the rudder. A white paint was applied and all installed back to the boat...
Then i spent some quality time with deadeyes; i started with 3.5 mm making deadeye assembly out of 0.3mm wire. Several different ways of making usable deaeyes ended up in one approach i think i will use for rest of them. Intention is to build template so i can do repetitive work faster...
Sorry the picture is not that sharp..
Testing on the boat 3.5mm size...
... and will make another one in 3mm size again and compare. Decisions, decisions.
Happy modeling..
the new one was made out of piece of basswood, shaped and attached to the rudder. A white paint was applied and all installed back to the boat...
Then i spent some quality time with deadeyes; i started with 3.5 mm making deadeye assembly out of 0.3mm wire. Several different ways of making usable deaeyes ended up in one approach i think i will use for rest of them. Intention is to build template so i can do repetitive work faster...
Sorry the picture is not that sharp..
Testing on the boat 3.5mm size...
... and will make another one in 3mm size again and compare. Decisions, decisions.
Happy modeling..
The work on deadeyes has been completed and all 16 of them have been made and installed.
I have decided to go with 3.5mm size as it appears to be a bit more up to scale. This is example of kit provided and 3.5 mm deadeyes. It looks like that kit supplied deadeues are actually even smaller..
So i decided to break deadeyes assembly in few repetitive tasks; the first one was to wrap the wire around the deadeye and twist it two times, cut the excess wire and cut to few cm length...
Then i used a small template to twist the wire around the pin with a players and making a loop that will be used to attach a chainplates later on.
Then deadeyes were glued to the position, the molding was attached as well and it is now ready for a layer of black paint. Molding have to be cut in length and trimmed to match rest of the molding.
Happy modeling...
I have decided to go with 3.5mm size as it appears to be a bit more up to scale. This is example of kit provided and 3.5 mm deadeyes. It looks like that kit supplied deadeues are actually even smaller..
So i decided to break deadeyes assembly in few repetitive tasks; the first one was to wrap the wire around the deadeye and twist it two times, cut the excess wire and cut to few cm length...
Then i used a small template to twist the wire around the pin with a players and making a loop that will be used to attach a chainplates later on.
Then deadeyes were glued to the position, the molding was attached as well and it is now ready for a layer of black paint. Molding have to be cut in length and trimmed to match rest of the molding.
Happy modeling...
Those new Deadeyes look so much better and about the correct size. You've done a good job on the new Tiller as well, did you put the other one on the wrong way round to catch out unsuspecting Ship's Boys?
Cheers Andy
Cheers Andy
Yeah, that was the intention
. Imagine level of amuzement for the rest of the crew when ship' boy trying to mount the rudder... without the Internet practical jokes were only way to get some fun those days, probably...
Yeah, that was the intention
Like sending new Apprentices to the Stores for a long weight or spare bubbles for a Spirit Level,
Cheers Andy
Very fine and detailed work.
Thanks Maarten...
Awesome work I want a fan of solid hull models till I saw this build come together your doing an outstanding job it's quite inspiring to see what can be done with those solid hull kits
Yes, you are right. The funny thing is that even with POB or POF kits someone can add significant amount of wood on it so it almost become a solid hull model..
Not quite productive last few days when it comes to shipyard work....
Today i started working on yards....
The measurements are taken from the plan and parts are made out of 3.5x3.5mm boxwood, shaped on small lathe using various sanding paper and different file types. The ends on small yards were carved with a knife after breaking few of them while on lathe...
Did not finish all of them, shaping takes a bit of time and one yard snapped on me, so some extra parts were made.
Tomorrow, time permits, will continue on two more yards...
Happy modeling.
Today i started working on yards....
The measurements are taken from the plan and parts are made out of 3.5x3.5mm boxwood, shaped on small lathe using various sanding paper and different file types. The ends on small yards were carved with a knife after breaking few of them while on lathe...
Did not finish all of them, shaping takes a bit of time and one yard snapped on me, so some extra parts were made.
Tomorrow, time permits, will continue on two more yards...
Happy modeling.
Time permitted and i have continued with yard build..
The yards are tiny, from 2mm-3mm in diameter at the thickest part of it. So i had to do it a bit differently, first i will shape to the desired diameter, and then will narrow it down as progressing towards the ends. The yard arms, the tiniest one (1mm) are done after the shape is complete.
The length of yards are up to 138mm, with some extra wood length to slide safely into lathe which will cause the yard to vibrate during process. My lathe is basic one and have no accessories to hold the wood in fairly steady position while turning so i needed to improvise.
After basic shape is completed and before yard arms are shaped, i will mark the middle of yard, put some scotch tape around it to protect the wood from chuck and slide it in lathe. The half i will be working on will be sticking out. The final shape is done and end piece is cut free. Then will rotate it and complete the same process on other end of a yard...
Yard protected with scotch tape...
In lathe, working on one half..
End results are very acceptable...
That should be all for today, happy modeling...
The yards are tiny, from 2mm-3mm in diameter at the thickest part of it. So i had to do it a bit differently, first i will shape to the desired diameter, and then will narrow it down as progressing towards the ends. The yard arms, the tiniest one (1mm) are done after the shape is complete.
The length of yards are up to 138mm, with some extra wood length to slide safely into lathe which will cause the yard to vibrate during process. My lathe is basic one and have no accessories to hold the wood in fairly steady position while turning so i needed to improvise.
After basic shape is completed and before yard arms are shaped, i will mark the middle of yard, put some scotch tape around it to protect the wood from chuck and slide it in lathe. The half i will be working on will be sticking out. The final shape is done and end piece is cut free. Then will rotate it and complete the same process on other end of a yard...
Yard protected with scotch tape...
In lathe, working on one half..
End results are very acceptable...
That should be all for today, happy modeling...
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Getting ready to make bowsprit... did not have in one piece so i glued two 3mm x 6mm boxwood and left to dry overnight.
Tomorrow will start shaping it. This one will be interesting, according to plan the bottom part (at the ship) is square shaped, then get changed progressively to round shape. Interesting...
Jib boom was next, shaped it on lathe...
While i am in "lathe mood" might as well complete few more ....
A view thru magnified lamp...
Shaping the arm....
Waiting for assembly time..
Happy modeling...
Tomorrow will start shaping it. This one will be interesting, according to plan the bottom part (at the ship) is square shaped, then get changed progressively to round shape. Interesting...
Jib boom was next, shaped it on lathe...
While i am in "lathe mood" might as well complete few more ....
A view thru magnified lamp...
Shaping the arm....
Waiting for assembly time..
Happy modeling...
@moreplovac Very nice lathe work! 
I have asked Santa to get one for my tools chest. Do you like it? Is it worth the price tag?
I have asked Santa to get one for my tools chest. Do you like it? Is it worth the price tag?
@moreplovac Very nice lathe work!
Hi Jim, thanks for following up...
Yes, it is definitely worth money; it is a mini lathe so there are some limitations when it come to usage. So far i had no issues; i am planing to extend a tool rest - you will ending up moving tool rest as you keep working on a item (work on 6cm, unscrew the rest, move it, tighten it, shape another 6cm, unscrew it.., ...) ; having just a simple piece of metal or even old ruller attached to tool rest would allow you to move chisel (or piece of wood with sanding paper on it) freely. This comes very handy if you work on a mast that is 15cm long...
This lathe does not come with 4 jaw self centering chuck so working on of a squared wood is a bit of a challenge to center it properly in existing 3 jaw chuck. For above Sultana' pieces i worked from a square piece, 4x6mm so had to do some "weird" stuff to have it stay centered while turning.. I also purchased a Proxxon 27028 Drill Chuck with sliding sleeve (amazon link)...
No issues so far, i have mounted it on a piece of wood (one old cabinet door), and place it on the bench when needed...
For the money paid and intended usage it is worth buying. If i can justify spending more money most likely will go with something similar to this one...
Cheers
Thank you for such detailed answer, Mорепло́вац
Bowsprit was "attacked" today. Used one piece of dowel and carved the shape out of it.
According to ship plan, the bowsprit top is 4mm in diameter and end is appr 5.2mm. The top is squared in the length of 4.5 cm and rest of it is rounded..
Practicum shows that the whole bowsprit is in octagonal shape but the plan shows it is partially round. So i might be mistaken but will go with plan.
Hopefully i red it correct.
Then i start testing all and accidentally broke the cap. So here we are again, make it from scratch...
I little bit of fine tuning is needed but appears to be very nice..
So that should do for today... Tomorrow more shaping to fit on the ship is planned...
Happy modeling..
According to ship plan, the bowsprit top is 4mm in diameter and end is appr 5.2mm. The top is squared in the length of 4.5 cm and rest of it is rounded..
Practicum shows that the whole bowsprit is in octagonal shape but the plan shows it is partially round. So i might be mistaken but will go with plan.
Hopefully i red it correct.
Then i start testing all and accidentally broke the cap. So here we are again, make it from scratch...
I little bit of fine tuning is needed but appears to be very nice..
So that should do for today... Tomorrow more shaping to fit on the ship is planned...
Happy modeling..