Looks like you will be busy building that ship model Stuart.
Some further thoughts. This number of ships in such a short time suggests they were appreciated at the time as being fundamentally well designed and effective. I count only 8 foundering, 3 captured and a couple burnt to avoid capture. This must be a pretty good testimonial for the time. I would also think that given a "winner", the plans would be little changed apart from allowing some locally practices. the first Swan seems to have lasted 48 years. This must have been amazing for the time, which was almost continually at war with the French.
So, reviewing the list,I eliminated those already being "blogged" and go for an interesting figurehead on a ship that lasted several decades. Shark seemed to "modern", Fairy, seems too jokey, so that leaves Savage- for which there are many precedents and images. (I'll probably change my mind next week)
4th Sept
After working at my "day" job from home , working-life under corona for those at risk, my hyperactivity/addiction won't allow me waiting for my band-saw blades, and so I started cutting the forms for the stern deadwood. I cut out the lower piece and placed locator pins between this and the keel at the points indicated. Then the next 3 pieces. Don't all of us have"one of those days" one nothing goes right. Well, the jig/puzzle saw wasn't the problem particularly, I just cut each piece with a wider margin. For some reason, the fit between the pieces, was unsatisfactory and lots of fettling and fiddling with files and sand paper didn't work. I originally thought to stick the cut out patterns with 1mm between them and CAREFULLY cut with the band saw (only 0.4 wide), so as to minimise finishing. To think of the years I only used various hand saws!! Can you rediscover that degree of patience again?
Past experience in this, work and other things, has taught me that if its a "bad" day, discipline yourself. leave it and come back another day. It works.
5th sept
My rest day.
This evening , while looking in the zu Mondfeld book for figureheads, I turned back a few pages and rediscovered what a practical book this is for the building process itself. I have used it for years as a reference, but the general information in the first part of this most essential book, deserves rereading.
After working at my "day" job from home , working-life under corona for those at risk, my hyperactivity/addiction won't allow me waiting for my band-saw blades, and so I started cutting the forms for the stern deadwood. I cut out the lower piece and placed locator pins between this and the keel at the points indicated. Then the next 3 pieces. Don't all of us have"one of those days" one nothing goes right. Well, the jig/puzzle saw wasn't the problem particularly, I just cut each piece with a wider margin. For some reason, the fit between the pieces, was unsatisfactory and lots of fettling and fiddling with files and sand paper didn't work. I originally thought to stick the cut out patterns with 1mm between them and CAREFULLY cut with the band saw (only 0.4 wide), so as to minimise finishing. To think of the years I only used various hand saws!! Can you rediscover that degree of patience again?
Past experience in this, work and other things, has taught me that if its a "bad" day, discipline yourself. leave it and come back another day. It works.
5th sept
My rest day.
This evening , while looking in the zu Mondfeld book for figureheads, I turned back a few pages and rediscovered what a practical book this is for the building process itself. I have used it for years as a reference, but the general information in the first part of this most essential book, deserves rereading.
continuing with the upper part (5) of stern deadwood. The usual, cut out pattern, stick, rough cut with puzzle saw and sand. Went smoothly if your forgive the pun. Should have know. Long thin paper slips and distorts, huge gap obvious when presented to other parts, so remade it with more care checking shape against master plan before trying to marry it to other parts. I bet all this would have been easier if I could have used my band saw (" a bad workman blames his BROKEN tools").
I must say the joint between 3,4,and five is difficult. Making an angle of approx. 25* and keepin cuts and sandinding at right angles is not easy. Using the chisel gives a sharp edge to the cut but tends to drift (? not rigid enough for this thickness of wood), knife blade similar problem. Filing better but maintaining sharpness of angle and not grooving base of work is difficult. In retrospect should have guarded with masking tape. Advice on this basic problem is welcome.
Well, I'll see the result after the glue sets. Can always do it all again (even though it will not be visible, I will know.Also, this paint and glue mix is too messy. Will venture out or send a family member to buy some black powder paint. Its corona mindset ("Let's be careful out there " -Hill Street Blues).
I'm again reinforcing with (hidden) trunnels before gluing each bit to its neighbour. TFFM remarks on full depth bolts, 16ft long,which is 10 cms in scale. Anyone know where I can buy 67 drill bit that length!!!
The TFFM calls for a taper of the aft section of part 5 AFTER the steps are cut. from 12 to 10 in. This seems to allow transition to width of the inner sternpost at this level. I can seen no indication where this begins. Tapering of keel is said to start at station 14, but this is very much shorter. I've tried to read ahead, but these particular drawings are lacking in in sizes/numbers. In this particular instant the 3D rendering is not particularly helpful. Advice is officially solicited.
Again , especially when gluing multiple pieces, clamp in both directions and sides if possible. Things slip.
I must say the joint between 3,4,and five is difficult. Making an angle of approx. 25* and keepin cuts and sandinding at right angles is not easy. Using the chisel gives a sharp edge to the cut but tends to drift (? not rigid enough for this thickness of wood), knife blade similar problem. Filing better but maintaining sharpness of angle and not grooving base of work is difficult. In retrospect should have guarded with masking tape. Advice on this basic problem is welcome.
Well, I'll see the result after the glue sets. Can always do it all again (even though it will not be visible, I will know.Also, this paint and glue mix is too messy. Will venture out or send a family member to buy some black powder paint. Its corona mindset ("Let's be careful out there " -Hill Street Blues).
I'm again reinforcing with (hidden) trunnels before gluing each bit to its neighbour. TFFM remarks on full depth bolts, 16ft long,which is 10 cms in scale. Anyone know where I can buy 67 drill bit that length!!!
The TFFM calls for a taper of the aft section of part 5 AFTER the steps are cut. from 12 to 10 in. This seems to allow transition to width of the inner sternpost at this level. I can seen no indication where this begins. Tapering of keel is said to start at station 14, but this is very much shorter. I've tried to read ahead, but these particular drawings are lacking in in sizes/numbers. In this particular instant the 3D rendering is not particularly helpful. Advice is officially solicited.
Again , especially when gluing multiple pieces, clamp in both directions and sides if possible. Things slip.
Shame I didn't take my own advice.In fairness the trunnels barely connected pieces 2 and 3. Honestly, I did check it before leaving it dry for the night. But this morning it had moved.(see misalignment of step lines). Probably too much pressure on the aft end on a joint that is curved **I said you could learn from my mistakes**. Carefully separated the parts with use of alcohol (applied to joint, not imbibed) and chisel blade. Again proof how strong this glue mix is WHEN CLAMPED while drying. Minimal hand sanding to smooth the surface, reglue and clamp in a different fashion. (this glue mix is really messy-will try and find old-fashioned black powder glue that I remember from my childhood)
(More mood music, Sinatra singing "that's all"-compare it to other versions)
(More mood music, Sinatra singing "that's all"-compare it to other versions)
I am looking forward to see the result with the blacked joints, after removal of the paper and sanded......
Good, that you have corrected the mistake
Good, that you have corrected the mistake
Second attempt better. Must remember law of forces.
The steps are roughed out by milling so the thickness left is 6.36mm. Remember paper +glue is thick, so remove this from above the steps before milling. The Proxxon is a bit fiddly as the XY table is small and the piece has to be sited several times for each side particularly for the clamps to grip. I have to remove total of 1.3mm -half from each side. This seems basic, but treble check before switching on -a remake at this stage will require expletives. I leave a margin above the steps, When I reposition piece and clamps, I restore the Z location (up down) to previous setting and oops- notice its cutting slightly deeper. I realised that the position of clamps allowed the top of part 5 to rise up and cause a deeper cut. IF REPOSITIONING RESET DEPTH ANEW. Fortunately the plan called for a Taper aft to width of 5.3mm. When I checked and remeasured, this mistake fell within the area and was removed with the taper. PHEW!
Also left the aft end over high as still not sure how the transom#4 sits- there is a notch on the plans that I haven't yet worked out.
Cut out and applied pattern from keel to steps, final shaping and sizing with the chisel blades.
Complex taper below the steps , up down and fore aft. The stem-most steps are a continuous gentle curve and the first bit disappears with the tapering. However the keel will (I hope) act as a support. The taper is very sharp-from 7.95mm to 2.65.
Patterns applied in both direction. I decide to take a chance and start off with my small band sander held in a desk clamp. More control taking part to tool. CAREFUL.
Then sand (against sanding board)/scrape/measure, sand/scrape/measure- slowly but surely. Note scraper, one-sided razor blade. This straightens the curve that sanding tends to course. Use mostly in one direction. I also prefer the fine finish.
The keel taper is simple (especially that I now know how to locate station 14), apply pattern and alternate sanding (equal nos. to both sides).
Locate stern deadwood on previously fitted pins of the keel.
Is it good enough? Even if hidden, I'll think on it overnight.
PS TFFM says the apron/stem is one of the most difficult- I think this is worse. Maybe psychologically because I thought this would be easier or the lack of the band saw. Certainly mood effects eye /hand coordination or maybe its sod's law, just to make things worse
The steps are roughed out by milling so the thickness left is 6.36mm. Remember paper +glue is thick, so remove this from above the steps before milling. The Proxxon is a bit fiddly as the XY table is small and the piece has to be sited several times for each side particularly for the clamps to grip. I have to remove total of 1.3mm -half from each side. This seems basic, but treble check before switching on -a remake at this stage will require expletives. I leave a margin above the steps, When I reposition piece and clamps, I restore the Z location (up down) to previous setting and oops- notice its cutting slightly deeper. I realised that the position of clamps allowed the top of part 5 to rise up and cause a deeper cut. IF REPOSITIONING RESET DEPTH ANEW. Fortunately the plan called for a Taper aft to width of 5.3mm. When I checked and remeasured, this mistake fell within the area and was removed with the taper. PHEW!
Also left the aft end over high as still not sure how the transom#4 sits- there is a notch on the plans that I haven't yet worked out.
Cut out and applied pattern from keel to steps, final shaping and sizing with the chisel blades.
Complex taper below the steps , up down and fore aft. The stem-most steps are a continuous gentle curve and the first bit disappears with the tapering. However the keel will (I hope) act as a support. The taper is very sharp-from 7.95mm to 2.65.
Patterns applied in both direction. I decide to take a chance and start off with my small band sander held in a desk clamp. More control taking part to tool. CAREFUL.
Then sand (against sanding board)/scrape/measure, sand/scrape/measure- slowly but surely. Note scraper, one-sided razor blade. This straightens the curve that sanding tends to course. Use mostly in one direction. I also prefer the fine finish.
The keel taper is simple (especially that I now know how to locate station 14), apply pattern and alternate sanding (equal nos. to both sides).
Locate stern deadwood on previously fitted pins of the keel.
Is it good enough? Even if hidden, I'll think on it overnight.
PS TFFM says the apron/stem is one of the most difficult- I think this is worse. Maybe psychologically because I thought this would be easier or the lack of the band saw. Certainly mood effects eye /hand coordination or maybe its sod's law, just to make things worse
Attachments
Impressive results, Stuglo! 
Also, I better understand the construction of this part as just assemble a similar one from my Aler kit.
Also, I better understand the construction of this part as just assemble a similar one from my Aler kit.
Looks good!
I never intended this blog to be so verbose (can that word be applied to writing) but needs must.
Another day another task- the Stempost. I will try to get into the habit of clearing my workspace between such "tasks"- see how long that lasts.
(Elsewhere on this site, people have complained about postal delivery delays. Yesterday I was notified of a package to be collected-from china. Surprise, it was a pair of dividers that I ordered and dispatched in DECEMBER 2019! I'd given up and bought a pair locally last month-at 3 times the price.)
Now, this stempost is described as 15in square at the head and tapers to 10in, slightly concave. Simple, as usual, cut out pattern, sand to size . Move on to the inner post.There seems to be no drawing of this part by itself or its dimensions. There are some showing combination with the stempost. Rereading, referring to 3D , and breaking out into a mental sweat and I suddenly realised (after more than a hour of mental constipation)that the stempost was TOO simple. In fact it is not square where it meets the keel but widens forward to 12.5mm as measured from plans. Obvious in retrospect. The measurements of the innerpost also taken from plans. I don't want to be spoon fed, but I still need to eat!!. So used the incorrect stempost for inner post, and recut the stempost. As I had already tapered one of the pieces, I thought it worthwhile to glue the 2 pieces together and then tapering the new stempost.
A word about using a static sanding board and moving the piece. Where and how to apply finger pressure is crucial. Equal to ensure flat effect, local emphasis is good when an angle is required.
Another day another task- the Stempost. I will try to get into the habit of clearing my workspace between such "tasks"- see how long that lasts.
(Elsewhere on this site, people have complained about postal delivery delays. Yesterday I was notified of a package to be collected-from china. Surprise, it was a pair of dividers that I ordered and dispatched in DECEMBER 2019! I'd given up and bought a pair locally last month-at 3 times the price.)
Now, this stempost is described as 15in square at the head and tapers to 10in, slightly concave. Simple, as usual, cut out pattern, sand to size . Move on to the inner post.There seems to be no drawing of this part by itself or its dimensions. There are some showing combination with the stempost. Rereading, referring to 3D , and breaking out into a mental sweat and I suddenly realised (after more than a hour of mental constipation)that the stempost was TOO simple. In fact it is not square where it meets the keel but widens forward to 12.5mm as measured from plans. Obvious in retrospect. The measurements of the innerpost also taken from plans. I don't want to be spoon fed, but I still need to eat!!. So used the incorrect stempost for inner post, and recut the stempost. As I had already tapered one of the pieces, I thought it worthwhile to glue the 2 pieces together and then tapering the new stempost.
A word about using a static sanding board and moving the piece. Where and how to apply finger pressure is crucial. Equal to ensure flat effect, local emphasis is good when an angle is required.
Testing some alternatives to paint/glue mix. What is sold as black powder paint is charcoal dust. Mixed with glue and compared with another glue/thick acrylic paint mix. The result is ,I think, better. Next time I will try the powder at the bottom of a barbeque charcoal bag because this stuff cost me $28 for 500ml. Retail robbery is legal here.
Back to the innerpost.
position of "scores" for transoms marked with cutouts sides and front). The depths can be measured from the transom plans (on separate plan next to the Hawse pieces, A plain side view is lacking which would have made this work much easier to understand. This is also lacking in the 3D.Also note the transoms are not horizontal and the scores must reflect this. The width and depth of this step can be seen by referring to the transom plans. Note the wing transom sits differently .I took the shallower depth of the slot to allow for the angle to be cut to allow the inclination.
There is in the appendix measurements for the various transom thicknesses. I tried to combine this with the varying thickness of the up/down taper to arrive at the amount to be removed from each side to make the score/step. I arrived at amounts going from 1mm (lower) to 1.4 (upper). I think this was getting overly complicated. I decided to remove 1mm all round and make adjustments later together with any fettling to the width of the transom slot.
A rough cut with the milling- the effect seems to indicate a new bit is necessary. I can also fix the angle of inclination more accurately latter.
I think I've had enough of the innerpost for the moment as its forming needs the fitting of the transoms, I going to start on these -but first a coffee break!!
These are not so simple, but the explanation and drawings seem relatively clear.
I again appreciate how a semi-scratch kit and practicum are so useful for the education process. Full scratch however is certainly a jump ahead.
Starting with the wing transom, the blank needed is 9.5mm thick ,12cm x 15mm wide. This is a curved piece convex on upper surface with a central highpoint. This curve is taken from the curve of the upper deck beam.
This time I glued the paper cutout to card (pizza give aways) and applied to both sides (fore and aft) and using the hand band sander, large flat file and sanding board, made the curve, the ends to thickness 7.95 (by removing 1.6mm)The cutouts are now removed to the lower level where the underside forms a concave profile. Again remove the necessary wood until the thickness is the same 7.95mm across the whole width. TMMF suggests using a chisel before sanding. I'm useless with this but others should consider it. After finishing this and ensuring uniformity of thickness across the pieice (not so easy)I checked out Kevin Kenny's video,where he uses the oscillating sander. I forgot about this. If I was remaking the piece I would do the concave surface first with the oscillating sander, and the convex surface afterward. I will try to remember this for the future.
position of "scores" for transoms marked with cutouts sides and front). The depths can be measured from the transom plans (on separate plan next to the Hawse pieces, A plain side view is lacking which would have made this work much easier to understand. This is also lacking in the 3D.Also note the transoms are not horizontal and the scores must reflect this. The width and depth of this step can be seen by referring to the transom plans. Note the wing transom sits differently .I took the shallower depth of the slot to allow for the angle to be cut to allow the inclination.
There is in the appendix measurements for the various transom thicknesses. I tried to combine this with the varying thickness of the up/down taper to arrive at the amount to be removed from each side to make the score/step. I arrived at amounts going from 1mm (lower) to 1.4 (upper). I think this was getting overly complicated. I decided to remove 1mm all round and make adjustments later together with any fettling to the width of the transom slot.
A rough cut with the milling- the effect seems to indicate a new bit is necessary. I can also fix the angle of inclination more accurately latter.
I think I've had enough of the innerpost for the moment as its forming needs the fitting of the transoms, I going to start on these -but first a coffee break!!
These are not so simple, but the explanation and drawings seem relatively clear.
I again appreciate how a semi-scratch kit and practicum are so useful for the education process. Full scratch however is certainly a jump ahead.
Starting with the wing transom, the blank needed is 9.5mm thick ,12cm x 15mm wide. This is a curved piece convex on upper surface with a central highpoint. This curve is taken from the curve of the upper deck beam.
This time I glued the paper cutout to card (pizza give aways) and applied to both sides (fore and aft) and using the hand band sander, large flat file and sanding board, made the curve, the ends to thickness 7.95 (by removing 1.6mm)The cutouts are now removed to the lower level where the underside forms a concave profile. Again remove the necessary wood until the thickness is the same 7.95mm across the whole width. TMMF suggests using a chisel before sanding. I'm useless with this but others should consider it. After finishing this and ensuring uniformity of thickness across the pieice (not so easy)I checked out Kevin Kenny's video,where he uses the oscillating sander. I forgot about this. If I was remaking the piece I would do the concave surface first with the oscillating sander, and the convex surface afterward. I will try to remember this for the future.
In the absence of my band saw , I got to use my new mini Japanese saws . these are so sharp that care needed not to cut the notch too deep on the wing transom (much shallower than the fitting transoms). Remembering the 1.6mm margin to be left below the bevel (the piece is turned upside down), a lined page of notepaper was the perfect width.Double and redouble checking that the bevel was in correct direction, I, to quote Elvis Presley, "RETURN TO SANDER". In this case my hand held Proxxon band sander. Remember also the corners that must be preserved. New cutout for upper surface, double check direction and bevel the other side. I really would appreciate a true side on drawing (What we call a lateral) view. **note for later- the wing transom slopes downward,(to match sheer of lower deck) the others upward.**
As this went quite well, thought I would continue roughing out the other transoms. Note no.4 is thinner . Frustrating issues with the thicknesse (noted on relevant thread -with solution, thank you.) . My conscious says I haven't had a workout for a few days, so a good point to stop todays build.
As this went quite well, thought I would continue roughing out the other transoms. Note no.4 is thinner . Frustrating issues with the thicknesse (noted on relevant thread -with solution, thank you.) . My conscious says I haven't had a workout for a few days, so a good point to stop todays build.
Attachments
As suggested in TFFM, made #4 transom from 2 pieces inV-shape showing the grain. Actually, didn't want to waste cutting a larger piece to obtain this thickness. The gluing needs reinforcing with trunnels, which gives me an excuse to try out the new strips I received last week -1mmx1mm boxwood from a UK marquetry company.(thanks who on the forum mentioned this).I also used my Byrnes dremel plate in the way intended (not with a Dremel and pushing through the holes).I cut down an old pair of pliers for "grab and pull" works great.
I'm not so confident as to the size of the bevels on the filling transoms, the the paper pattern looks excessive "off" the sternpost as reference, so returned to working the steps of the innerpost. Note the wing transom as a VERY small angled notch , the lower edge, shallower. I guessed about 0.9mm with the deeper side, 1.6mm. Cutting and filing . Fits well (Not first time- took off too much and small addition necessary to make notch shallower). Laid the sternpost on the plan to check DOWNWARD angle of step and -O B..........!!! Forgot to take off the extra height I left on the inner sternpost for safety. Thought it look TOO good. Lowered the top step as required, now just a couple of fillets to fill in the sides which were unnecessarily removed. Some scrap, scalpel chisel and Ooops.!!! Not enough clearance for my finger . Only a small cut, but I've been taking blood thinners (anticoags) for the last 11 weeks because of an M.I. This means that my bleeding time (an expression that cause much hilarity as students in an age when there was no swearing) is now an hour or so instead of less 10 mins. Raise arm above head, tissue paper and superglue. Stupid using a 12mm blade for a small job.
I'm not so confident as to the size of the bevels on the filling transoms, the the paper pattern looks excessive "off" the sternpost as reference, so returned to working the steps of the innerpost. Note the wing transom as a VERY small angled notch , the lower edge, shallower. I guessed about 0.9mm with the deeper side, 1.6mm. Cutting and filing . Fits well (Not first time- took off too much and small addition necessary to make notch shallower). Laid the sternpost on the plan to check DOWNWARD angle of step and -O B..........!!! Forgot to take off the extra height I left on the inner sternpost for safety. Thought it look TOO good. Lowered the top step as required, now just a couple of fillets to fill in the sides which were unnecessarily removed. Some scrap, scalpel chisel and Ooops.!!! Not enough clearance for my finger . Only a small cut, but I've been taking blood thinners (anticoags) for the last 11 weeks because of an M.I. This means that my bleeding time (an expression that cause much hilarity as students in an age when there was no swearing) is now an hour or so instead of less 10 mins. Raise arm above head, tissue paper and superglue. Stupid using a 12mm blade for a small job.
short and less productive session . Did narrow down a chisel blade to match the width of transoms' the notch. The upper step is wedge shape- the to sloping down and the bottom slightly up- 2.25mm to 1.25mm in section.
Having a problem cutting the other steps. They are less than 2mm thick and cut across the grain. The cherry wood seems to fracture or crumble and repairs necessary.
I'm using all new blades. Thought to cheat by sanding flat and adding steps later or putting some superglue as reinforcement before cutting again. Work phone call keep interrupting, so I think what to do over night. Advice much welcomed.
Having a problem cutting the other steps. They are less than 2mm thick and cut across the grain. The cherry wood seems to fracture or crumble and repairs necessary.
I'm using all new blades. Thought to cheat by sanding flat and adding steps later or putting some superglue as reinforcement before cutting again. Work phone call keep interrupting, so I think what to do over night. Advice much welcomed.
Some difficulty fitting because of thickness of transoms - notch 5.3 wide.Tight fit-some gentle filing and OK. Fortunately file width is 5.2mm. Thought do gudgeon straps, 0.53 deep and 1.6mm wide, I have a milling bit exactly 1.6 diam. So far lucky day. Just remember to check and reset hight (Z) for each level. This file is also 1.5mm thick- easy clean up. More good news- my band saw blades delivered (made locally to order). Fitted the first one and discovered my easier with extra (3rd) hand for the job. On a roll, bite the bullet and commit to making the bevels on filling transoms. I was apprehensive because at first sight a lot of wood needs to be removed. However, once viewed against the wing transom, all looks ok. Again (with thanks to Kevin Kenny) use of the spindle sander is a great help, piece held at changing angles to the sander and complex bevel rapidly formed. Just some cleaning up with a semi-rigid sanding stick (from a local discount Beauty shop). Looks good and fits."I love it when a plan comes together" (Hannibal Smith , A-team)
PS. You know the scene in Hitchcock's Psycho, when the blood stained water swirls down the shower drain?Well, after a few hours intensive sanding, the water swirling down in my shower,was heavily brown-stained with sanded cherrywood. (I keep the shower curtain open)