Swan Class – ¼” Scale - Stuglo [COMPLETED BUILD]

The Quarter Badge
Instead of the Gallery in biggerships. Will refer to Atalanta plans for basic outlines, but without the fancy stuff. Apparently, this fitting was very varied.
The critical parts are the Upper and Lower Stools. The inboard side is attached to the ships side and follow these rules :They are parallel to each other
They project no further out from the ship than the Quarter Pieces
Outboard shape is elliptical
Athwartship, the upper surface is horizontal
Molding on the outer edge (3D shows the difference between Upper and Lower)
Upper Stool is slightly smaller.
Lower Stool.
Check height and slope to plans.(the slope parallels the slope of the Sheer Rail in my plans)
My finished width is to be 6.8mm, thickness 2.2mm and length 46
I made the molding off the ship using a scraper scraper, and then reduced width and fitted the inboard surface to the hull with PVA and a couple of drops of cyano to grip while drying.(Pinning seemed a bit dodgy.)

Upper Stool
Very slightly smaller than the Lower Stool.
Made a different molding as this (seemed) to be shown on the 3D
The approx, middle ⅓ is replaced by the Bell-top, a sharply arched structure, with the thickness and molding of its “wings”,
The shape is described as an “irregular skewed ellipse”. ?Because of the slope, a regular ellipse looks odd.
Using the pattern from TFFM and a blank 10x8x9mm milled and filed the shape, including the minimal curving of the outer edge and the 45deg joints. **The corners broke with scraping the molding.**
Again using the plans, removed the middle segment and the edges sanded to 45deg so that the Bell-top fitted with the make the appropriate total length for the Upper Stool.
After gluing, the molding can be patched up where the corners were reattached.
I used boxwood for colour and relative ease of scraping the molding, but on the curve this was difficult. The asymmetrical shape was not the easiest to make. Thankfully, only putting on one side.
Note also when gluing the Bell-top to its wings, ensure alignment horizontally, and between their inboard surfaces. When glued, the surplus from the inboard surface of the Bell-top can be removed and the whole beveled to fit to the ship’s side so the upper surface is horizontal.
Ensuring the Bell-top sits over the port, the Upper Stool is parallel to the Lower Stool and starts about 3mm aft of it. Glue in position as before.
Go away and rest until the glue is firmly set before any more messing !!!.


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Munions and Lights
4 in parallel. The outermost against the ship’s side and so shaped.
Can’t see that dimensions are given, so made 3.60x1.35mm .
With a central space , the fore and aft sides appear to differ slightly in width.
The frames seem to be set to the back of the munions, but I found this difficult in practice.
I had totally forgotten how I made the frame, but was able to refer to my blog of May 15,2022.
The main difference was the extension of the frame into the Bell section of the Upper Stool.
This I made and fitted separately.
While the glue for the Munions was drying, I shaped out a block as the first stage in making the Upper finishing.
I usually soak the piece in hot water, before applying an adapted soldering iron against a wooden curve.
Because of the peculiar curve, after a quick soak, I clamped the piece to my shaped blank which allowed it to slowly take and hold the shape while still in hot water. It worked nicely.
I then fixed this separately.
The middle light was made with the plastic shaped as required above the upper rail but unframed, so that the light can be slipped into the upper frame while fitting.
The Munions and framing do not appear to be in parallel, but this is an optical illusion.
The Pilasters are again leftovers, adapted for the purpose5123.jpg5a123.jpg6a123.jpg6b123.jpg6c123.jpg6d123.jpg6e123.jpg6f123.jpg
 
stuglo said:
Munions and Lights
4 in parallel. The outermost against the ship’s side and so shaped.
Can’t see that dimensions are given, so made 3.60x1.35mm .
With a central space , the fore and aft sides appear to differ slightly in width.
The frames seem to be set to the back of the munions, but I found this difficult in practice.
I had totally forgotten how I made the frame, but was able to refer to my blog of May 15,2022.
The main difference was the extension of the frame into the Bell section of the Upper Stool.
This I made and fitted separately.
While the glue for the Munions was drying, I shaped out a block as the first stage in making the Upper finishing.
I usually soak the piece in hot water, before applying an adapted soldering iron against a wooden curve.
Because of the peculiar curve, after a quick soak, I clamped the piece to my shaped blank which allowed it to slowly take and hold the shape while still in hot water. It worked nicely.
I then fixed this separately.
The middle light was made with the plastic shaped as required above the upper rail but unframed, so that the light can be slipped into the upper frame while fitting.
The Munions and framing do not appear to be in parallel, but this is an optical illusion.
The Pilasters are again leftovers, adapted for the purposeView attachment 350425View attachment 350426View attachment 350427View attachment 350428View attachment 350429View attachment 350430View attachment 350431View attachment 350432
Click to expand...
wonderful work, it's looks beautiful, well done my dear friend:)Thumbsup
 
Upper Finishing.
A very varied structure. Often flamboyantly carved, but often simplified on models.
After shaping my block to fit on the Upper Stool, I sanded the curves, up/down and athwartship,in a rather arbitrary fashion.
The decorative crown (another leftover) and small blacked chain to represent carved vines (rather fancifully).7123.jpg7a123.jpg7b123.jpg7c123.jpg

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The Lower Finishing.
Made in 2 parts, separated by the Lower Finishing Rail.
An Upper Counter, depth 3mm. Rim as molding narrowing sharply from the Lower Stool.
(Initially used a scraper from Artesena Latina, but this damaged the upper surface, so just beveled by sanding).

Lower Finishing Rail- 0.8mm thick, slightly proud of the lower rim of the Upper Counter.

Lower Counter.
Took a blank 35x10x8mm. The upper surface from the given patten, slightly smaller than the overlying Rail.
The downward narrowing is more acute aft.
Inward surface shaped to match ship’s side.

The Drop - made separately.
This is pierced by a discharge tube from the Head inside the captain’s cabin.

Console Brackets.
Adapted from the pattern in TFFM10123.jpg10a123.jpg
 
The Stern Lantern

At first glance, intimidating, but with the usual TFFM breaking it down into stages, was do-able.
The major hurdle- Munions and Door ( a hexagonal construct tapering towards the base)- were bought as part of the photo etched addition.
The main difficulty is bending along the grooves between the sections. I spray painted with aerosol as I find it gives a better finish than “blackening” liquids.
The inside is supposed to be red but I omitted this detail.
Beneath is a thin Lower Rim. A symmetrical hexagon 13.15 mm across. I made it from a 0.18mm thick brass strip using the TFFM pattern.(A frame from etched parts from an old kit. I find cutting to shape difficult, so after roughing it out, use the band sander.)
Epoxy to Lamp for rigidity and spray paint black.

Roof.
Thickness given as 3.18 but the drawing is more like 3.6mm Looking at my plans, I went with this.
Used blank 16mm sq. and as instructed, drilled a small (.7) hole at 14.5deg.near the center.
Cutting out the largest and smallest part of the patter, made a pinhole in the center, and threaded one above and the other below the blank. ENSURE a side above and below, aligned and sand to the pattern ALLOWING FOR THE “BULGES” as required.(also slanting aftwards). I used a small hand held band sander and it worked easier than I thought possible.
Genius of the author of TFFM on display again.
The Vent and Vent Top
- are shaped from some scrap soft metal alloy, and coloured black.
The Lights
Cut from 0.26mm plastic sheet. I find though that even the smallest amount of glue gives vapors that cause opacity. ADVICE sought for the future.
The Base.
Similar technique to the Roof.
Blank 11.5x6.5 and 4.25mm thick.
Drill at 14.5deg, pin aligned pattern above and below, and sand to shape.

Stool and Crank.
I simplified these by making a thin rim with my brass strip, and combined the Stool with the part the Stool sits on (? is that bit called a tang).
Again, something left over was exactly what I needed.
Eyebolts either side of the Roof, and on the Capping Rail, above the Counter timber.
Connected by Support Rods - 0.26mm for which I used covered wire,
Central hole in Taffarel for the ensemble at the height shown on the plan.



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Finishing my Swan Class Sloop
Mast Wedges, stubs for the masting, and a figure head.
I purchased the Lion figure (boxwood?) online from PRC. Required some adaptation for fitting.
Not one of the class as listed, but I read somewhere that a generic lion figure was sometimes used even when the ship’s name was something else.

Well, 30 months, about 3000 hours, 500+ postings. What a voyage of discovery. There were times, particularly at the beginning, that I wondered if I’d even depart the harbour. Of course, without the practicum TFFM books , Dan Vardas blogs and Kevin’s Videos, I would have been sunk many times. Thank you all.
Thanks to the Bosun (wife) for tolerating my taking a spare bedroom (and sometimes a second one), disappearing for hours, making noise in the early hours of the morning, and turning a blind eye to the expense of the new tools that I acquired. My grandchildren, perhaps hoping to inherit the ship, are even more attentive than usual.
Like a good book that you regret when finishing, so is this project.
I have more on the shelf, but will return to a Swan, perhaps with reduced innards, but fully planked and rigged. I have volume 4 TFFM and enough cherrywood stock.

And now for something completely different (Monty Python)----

The BISMARK - Amarti kit.19123.jpg19a123.jpg19b123.jpg19c123.JPG19d123.jpg19f123.jpg
 
dockattner said:
Congratulations Stuglo! A beautiful result you should be proud of. I'm sure she will have the 'pride of place' in your home.

If I could: PRC???
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Peoples Republic of China. Its on most of the things we buy. When I was a kid, it was "made in Japan" then Taiwan and every decade it changes.
 
stuglo said:
Finishing my Swan Class Sloop
Mast Wedges, stubs for the masting, and a figure head.
I purchased the Lion figure (boxwood?) online from PRC. Required some adaptation for fitting.
Not one of the class as listed, but I read somewhere that a generic lion figure was sometimes used even when the ship’s name was something else.

Well, 30 months, about 3000 hours, 500+ postings. What a voyage of discovery. There were times, particularly at the beginning, that I wondered if I’d even depart the harbour. Of course, without the practicum TFFM books , Dan Vardas blogs and Kevin’s Videos, I would have been sunk many times. Thank you all.
Thanks to the Bosun (wife) for tolerating my taking a spare bedroom (and sometimes a second one), disappearing for hours, making noise in the early hours of the morning, and turning a blind eye to the expense of the new tools that I acquired. My grandchildren, perhaps hoping to inherit the ship, are even more attentive than usual.
Like a good book that you regret when finishing, so is this project.
I have more on the shelf, but will return to a Swan, perhaps with reduced innards, but fully planked and rigged. I have volume 4 TFFM and enough cherrywood stock.

And now for something completely different (Monty Python)----

The BISMARK - Amarti kit.View attachment 352290View attachment 352291View attachment 352292View attachment 352293View attachment 352294View attachment 352295
Click to expand...
My dearest friend
I had the privilege of seeing you and accompanying you in the creation process on this beautiful model, I must praise you for the quality result you reached.
You have gained a supportive and encouraging partner and you have created a wonderful family. Good luck with the new project, I have no doubt that it will be both successful and beautiful.
Well done my dear friend :) Thumbsup
 
Also from my side my CONGRATULATIONS for finishing this fine and well build model

BRAVO

I am looking forward to see your Bismark in a building log (Hope so?!?!)
 
stuglo said:
I was undecided whether to start a blog as there are so many good ones already out there. What can I add? Maybe a perspective from someone with more enthusiasm than talent. I'm no artist-can't draw for toffee. But wood is forgiving and the final result can hide a lot of mistakes and botch ups. When I started building 30 years ago, there were few books, no forums and restricted number of kits, mainly european. I had a mentor/teacher/friend who started me with additional help from magazines, Ships in Scale. Kit-bashing was for an elite and I never heard of scratch. In these magazines several builders were so good that they had to be professional. Well, we have forums, massive of information and machine and tools not available not so long ago. I built the Onieda (lumberyard) beautiful wood and kit but very difficult for me to understand the building process and lost some enthusiasm. I gave up in the middle, built the Charles Morgan ,visiting the real ship, and returned to Oneida with renewed enthusiasm and guidance from a blog on the internet (2014) After several large builds (Diane and Agamemnon ) I deliberately built variety of "quickies". I then bought the Robert Hunt Practicum of the Hannah with wood from Lumberyard. A new level. I love books,and have over 40 printed and e-books. Reading another blog I discovered The Fully Framed Model,TFFM (thanks Canoe21). The idea of scratch took root. Visiting my friendly carpenter to buy a cheap off-cut to use as a display base for a soon to be completed model, I asked him if he has any wood, beside MDF, Pine or Ply that is used in cupboards these days. He showed me some planks of cherrywood that had stood unused for 10 years. I bought them for the price asked (very cheap) and now owned 450X15X3 cm of raw material that TFFM says should be enough. Over the last year, I purchased what seemed according to others, to be essential. Plans from Seawatch books, vol.2 TFFM, milling machine, a larger table saw, thickenessor (Proxxon) and Band Saw and spindle oscillating sander (together less than the cost of a weeks holiday that I cannot have in covid - time, as I told my wife). I still thought that more experience was necessary and purchased another semiscratch kit, Rattlesnake and ordered Alert. A sudden health issue and seeing how many years others took to build scratch, I took the plunge.
I think Einstein said he stood on the shoulders of giants, I intend to stare under the armpits of other bloggers particularly video blog of Kevin Kenny and Dan Vardess and Trussben. Thank you.
The foregoing is to encourage the "ordinary" hobbyist to realise it can be done and not be overawed.
18th Aug 2020. First clear decks from previous build. I tidy up between stages but generally work in chaos ( spare bedroom, wife keeps distance)

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Hallo @stuglo
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Birthday-Cake
Enjoy your special day
 
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