Swan Class – ¼” Scale - Stuglo [COMPLETED BUILD]

[stuglo]

The Eking Rail
The continuation of the Cathead Support.
In my plan,Atalanta, this extends above the center of the Hawse Bolster. (there is no 1st Head Timber)
The first job is to fay the inner surface. This is a significant curve. I remembered my pin jig that made it easier.
Again an oversize blank, 15x50x10mm.
With the Supporter held in place by tape,I then made the scarf joint, marked the lower curve, then the parallel upper edge. Finally the outer edge.
I epoxy-ed the joint for strength to allow the final shaping off the model.
The plan calls for molding the outer surface, but I was disappointed with my attempts on the cherrywood Main Rail,
The 3D and other illustrations show a coloured insert similar to the Covering Boards of the Head Timbers, so I followed suite

 

[stuglo]

Seats of Ease
Just the forward pair.
The Discharge Tube fits in the space of the Gratings of the Head, made for that purpose. The shape is a parallelogram.
The walls are 0.53 mm thick. Each face is given as 4.77 across, but I made it “to fit”.
The inner wall rests on the Lower Rail-the outer face shorter to allow the outflow. The two other sides of height allow the whole assembly above the Gratings to be 7.95mm.
I made them in situ, stucking them separately into the Gratings gap, and sanded the top combined surfaces to be horizontal.
The Seats, also 0.53 thick, are 7.42 sq. with a hole 3.71mm diam.
The seat shape is also a parallelogram.
The False Rail and the parts of the decorative Rails of the Bow previously removed, are now cut to length and replaced.

 

[stuglo]

Planksheer of Forecastle
TFFM suggests making it in 2 parallel pieces as the Breast Rails, but as I have not yet made the Timberheads, this isn’t necessary.
The Planksheer is 1.33mm thick. It overlaps the combined width of the hull wall.
Using a card pattern taken directly from the model. The length is divided by 2 or 3 scarph joints.
I found it easier to fit the aftmost section. This covers a Hance. I subdivided the piece- hollowing a square piece to cover the Hance, shaping the outer surface after gluing in place. A short straight piece, before shaping the next curve in a similar fashion. The rest fitted and shaped.
As before, the wood didn’t lend itself to shaping a molding, so I simply chamfered it.
For the scrolled Terminal, I added a 2mm cylinder-shape.
The Planksheer should extend to cover the Bowsprit Cross Chock, but mine is too high - or rather the Bulwark is too low. I decided to leave this as is.

(Personal note. I’ve been on holiday and haven’t worked on the boat for a month. Brain and hands feel “rusty”. Do others find this?)

 

[archjofo]

Nice work !

 

[stuglo]

Cat Block for the Falls

This is a type called a “snatch” block because it has a slot or “swallow” on 1 side.
The “tail” of the block is mortised around a timberhead.
It is curved and coloured to match the Planksheer.
Size: 4.77 mm wide and 3.71 nn thick.
It contains a Sheeve, 4.24x0.75 mm.
To allow for the curve, I took a blank 6.5 sq.
Using a pattern, roughed out the side profile with the mill. Also used it for the slot and curved entry.
*Mistake* - cut the profile curves at right angle to the block. When I later shaped the curve (using another pattern ) to follow the Planksheer curve, realised that the profile should be at rt. angles to the curve. These were redone.
The other Timberheads will be fitted onto the Planksheer, and therefore, rather than mortise one into the Block, simply attach one onto it. (allowing for the thickness of the block at this point).

 

[shota70]

Cat Block for the Falls

This is a type called a “snatch” block because it has a slot or “swallow” on 1 side.
The “tail” of the block is mortised around a timberhead.
It is curved and coloured to match the Planksheer.
Size: 4.77 mm wide and 3.71 nn thick.
It contains a Sheeve, 4.24x0.75 mm.
To allow for the curve, I took a blank 6.5 sq.
Using a pattern, roughed out the side profile with the mill. Also used it for the slot and curved entry.
*Mistake* - cut the profile curves at right angle to the block. When I later shaped the curve (using another pattern ) to follow the Planksheer curve, realised that the profile should be at rt. angles to the curve. These were redone.
The other Timberheads will be fitted onto the Planksheer, and therefore, rather than mortise one into the Block, simply attach one onto it. (allowing for the thickness of the block at this point).
View attachment 345817View attachment 345818View attachment 345819

View attachment 345820

well done my dearst friend, it's looks beautiful work

 

[stuglo]

The Timberheads.

15 per side. Position as per Profile and Framing plans.
Size and shape given in TFFM ch.3.30 of vol. 1
4.24 mm wide and 2.65 deep.
As before, milled a groove on the angled strip (another strip wedged under one side) on both wider sides, then using the jig, matched the “thin” sides using a file)
These are also blackened to match the Planksheer.

The Quarterdeck Planksheer was fitted in the same way as the Forecastle Planksheer at this stage to allow the Timberheads to be fitted.
On the unfinished port side, blanks are fitted to represent where the extended frames should have been left.

 

[stuglo]

Fish Davit Cleat
(Thought I’d make some parts out of order while working on the Planksheer)
Above the 1st port. Width 4.77. Length 24.5 with a slot for Davit 8.48.
Made as the previous block- pattern and milling.

Fixed Block for Main Mast
Shown on Atalanta plan. Almost opposite the Mizzen Mast.
19.8x 1.2 high x 5.3 mm with a slot for a sheeve 1mm wide.
Timberhead enclosed within the aft section.

Fixed Block for Main Brace
Similar to Main Sheet Block, but 4x4.24 mm wide-
The aft “tail” fitted around the Outer Side Counter Timber.
Thinner sheeve (0.53) set at angle. I wedged the piece in the mill vice at the required angle and milled the slot “straight”

 

[stuglo]

Fore Channel Deadeyes and Chains.
Sizes of Deadeyes: 5.3 and 3.71mm
Chains . 4 parts: Upper link enclosing deadeye
Middle link- os variable length
Toe
Preventer plate.
TFFM explains how to make these. I will use my parts box and purchase more as required.

Billboard, Bolster and Lining.
These protect the ship’s side from the anchor flukes.

Lining -
3 planks 1.33 mm thick, overlying the Wale.
The curved side forms a radius centered on the Catshead.
Bolster-
Rests on the Wale, above the Lining.
41.34x4.24x3.71mm deep
Inner surface fays to ship side, and is scored to fit over the Preventer Plates
Cross Section is chamfered so the lower edge is flush with the Lining.
Billboard-
Supported by 2 stanchions, 2.12x2.65mm wide, between the Bolster and underside of the Channel.
Planks 1.33 mm thick

 

[stuglo]

Forgot to post this-
Copper pins decapitated and treenails fitted to Billboard

 

[stuglo]

Fixed Gangway Newel Post and Railing
The Post:
From the corner of the Fixed Gangway, supporting the Rail which runs to the outer Stantion of the Quarterdeck Breastwork. .
The Post is 22.3mm high and made from 2.65mm sq. stock. It was a spare left over from a batch previously turned.
The Railing:
2.4 x 1.6mm thick.
The aft part forms a dog-leg or “crank”, to meet the outer Breastwork Stantion.
In section, shaped handrail-like, formed with a scraper.
Iron Strap:
1.6x0.53mm.
Hammered from 1mm copper wire.
As well as the crank, similar to the aft of the Railing, it has an upward curve so the aft end sits on the Breastwork Rail.
Used copper blackening solution.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Great looking work on the billboard and Cats head.

 

[stuglo]

Steps to the Waist.
From the Fixed Gangway to the Waist of the ship.
Styles 1.33mm thick, steps 0.8mm thick
To position the Styles that follow the curve of the Gangway, then are in line on the deck, the upper steps form a curved or “winding” shape.
***********************************************************************************************************
Rather than set up the table saw, sledge and jig to groove the styles, I tried my trusty mill.
The angle of the styles to the deck was about 60. Geometry 101 gave style/gangway about 30.
The 2 sides of the styles must have opposite grooves.
I cut a piece of a point of 60 to some thin spare stocks, set it vertically, then clamped the styles either side of this and ran the mill piece horizontally across both. Repeated passes at 6mm intervals, and voila, matching grooves for the styles.

 

[stuglo]

Structures of the Stern.
I’m somewhat daunted by this. Its a visible structure that seems complicated to make.
As usual, TFFM simplifies this into a number of steps.

Taffarel Pattern.
Explanation given how to draw this given the ship's plan.
However the final result pretty much suited my build, so I used this directly.
(I have plans for Atalanta and the Fly -the size and pattern of the Stern are different.)

Taffarel Base.
In order to shape the curve of the Stern, a jig was made. A spare block of wood is split into 2 halves, using the shape of the curve taken from my Atalanta Quarter Deck Plan.
The formed Stern will be clamped between the 2 halves.

The Taffarel.
TFFM describes a thickness of 3.18 mm below the line of the Coves - 1.06 mm above.
Within the Coves, the area is carved out into various decorations. To avoid the carving and thinning I followed the suggestions of Dan Vardas’s blog.
Using 3 pieces of different woods, I made each the same thickness of 1.03mm.
The outer and middle from the same pattern - just the area of the Coves and Necking..
Some small alteration was necessary to match the Arches of the Coves to the position of the Munions.
The shape of the Coves marked and the “rim” roughly hollowed out with the mill.
These 2 are glued and clamped in the jig.
Using the full pattern, and the inner layer was cut out.
(**When offered to the stern I found it fell too short of the Quarter Deck Planksheer-and I had to remake it.**)
The outer pair is now glued to the inner layer and pressed within the Base jig to try with the required curve. ( 2 spare bits can be used to even out the sandwich.)
When dry, using the convex side of the jig to support the part, the Coves, the Arches and Necking are further shaped with scalpel and chisel.
The whole is glued and pinned with treenails to the Countertimbers.

Additional Thickness Piece.
Forward of the Taffarel extension beyond the Hull, 2.12 mm to match the thickness of the Quarter Pieces.

 

[stuglo]

Upper Quarter Piece
A piece, outboard and level with the Lights, extending downwards of the Additional Thickness Piece.
Width and thickness of said Piece, narrowing downwards to about 5.5mm.
My outer surface has a molding rather than some fancy carving- some sources say this was a possibility.

 

[stuglo]

Capping Rail

A narrow molding above the Taffarel.
4.5mm wide and only 0.8mm thick.
I made it thicker as my first attempt broke and to ease my conscience, thickened it to match the plansheers.
I considered various methods - several short sections or bending (? possible in 2 planes without twisting) and decided to make it in 3 pieces, the main from bulwark to bulwark, and shape it from a solid blank, 11x18x15 CMS.
Firstly, the curve of the Stern, then roughed-out the shape of the upper Taffarel. Sanding and file to shape, then thin to the decided thickness. The outer parts are easier.
Before fitting the middle section, file out a section in the centre where the Ensign Capsquare Base will fit (12.5x1.3mm).
(I followed the TFFM pattern for the Taffarel, but there is much variation. Below is the plan of the Atalanta- the form of the Capping Rail would be relatively easy, but all that carving!!!!!)

 

[stuglo]

PS. The Munions were spares I ordered from the Agamemnon kit. Perfect fit.

 

[shota70]

Capping Rail

A narrow molding above the Taffarel.
4.5mm wide and only 0.8mm thick.
I made it thicker as my first attempt broke and to ease my conscience, thickened it to match the plansheers.
I considered various methods - several short sections or bending (? possible in 2 planes without twisting) and decided to make it in 3 pieces, the main from bulwark to bulwark, and shape it from a solid blank, 11x18x15 CMS.
Firstly, the curve of the Stern, then roughed-out the shape of the upper Taffarel. Sanding and file to shape, then thin to the decided thickness. The outer parts are easier.
Before fitting the middle section, file out a section in the centre where the Ensign Capsquare Base will fit (12.5x1.3mm).
(I followed the TFFM pattern for the Taffarel, but there is much variation. Below is the plan of the Atalanta- the form of the Capping Rail would be relatively easy, but all that carving!!!!!)View attachment 348539View attachment 348540View attachment 348541View attachment 348542

my dear friend
I saw your magnificent work with my own eyes during a visit last Friday, and I must say that in reality your work looks very impressive and beautiful.
I get to learn a lot from you and for that I am grateful

 

[stuglo]

Lower Quarter Pieces.
Continuing downward from the Upper Quarter Piece, it extends to cover the upper Wale strake.
Follows the curves of the Stern and the Hull, thinning downwards- more so across the outer face. Molding with shaped scraper.
Not satisfied with the first attempt. I didn’t consider the effect of the grain and different wood shade.
Remade both the Upper and Lower Quarter Pieces

The bird of prey is homage to the build log of Dan Vadas’s HMS Vulture. This helped me over some significant difficulties. A great model ship builder.

 

[stuglo]

Ensign Staff Capsquare and Step
This is shown as a horizontal piece inserted into the Capping Rail, to support the Staff.
However, due to the dome-shape of the central area, I followed that shape for the upper surface.
The staff has a diameter of 2.4 mm, so a vertical groove was filed out at half this depth.
The Capsquare is similar to those on the cannon trucks, so I used one, brass pins, one bent over to represent the bolt.
The step is a simple rectangle with a 2.4mm hole, and fixed to the deck.