Well a minor problem occurred. While cutting away the veneer from one of the cannon ports, I pressed the knife too hard and the white wooden piece behind the port fell off into the ship. Ill have to think about how to replace this.
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The Black Swan by OcCre 1:75: Build Log
- Thread starter Rob444
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- Watchers 9
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- black swan occre
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- Dec 23, 2024
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Oops, I would imagine the replacement to be a very accurate piece of measuring for the replacement, marginally oversize, then gently sand all edges to make it an interference fit. Then glue all four edges of the the hull and push fit the replacement part.
Unless anyone can offer a better solution.
Unless anyone can offer a better solution.
Thank you! Sounds like a plan.
Hi Rob, your Black Swan is looking fantastic! Among other things, I love the way your first layer of hull planking overlaps and transitions to the transom - well done! Agree with others, the mahogany veneer looks very nice.
As for your cannon port "oops" may I also suggest you glue in two small narrow pieces of wood on the inner surface to serve as "stops" for insertion of the replacement port piece? That way you don't have to be quite as precise on the dimensions or risk pushing it through (don't ask me how I know this
). By the looks of it, you have room to reach in with tweezers and attach them with CA. I'd bet one on opposite sides would do. Just a thought!
Keep it up, I'm enjoying the ride!
As for your cannon port "oops" may I also suggest you glue in two small narrow pieces of wood on the inner surface to serve as "stops" for insertion of the replacement port piece? That way you don't have to be quite as precise on the dimensions or risk pushing it through (don't ask me how I know this
). By the looks of it, you have room to reach in with tweezers and attach them with CA. I'd bet one on opposite sides would do. Just a thought!Keep it up, I'm enjoying the ride!
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Great idea Bill! Thanks so much!Hi Rob, your Black Swan is looking fantastic! Among other things, I love the way your first layer of hull planking overlaps and transitions to the transom - well done! Agree with others, the mahogany veneer looks very nice.
As for your cannon port "oops" may I also suggest you glue in two small narrow pieces of wood on the inner surface to serve as "stops" for insertion of the replacement port piece? That way you don't have to be quite as precise on the dimensions or risk pushing it through (don't ask me how I know this
Keep it up, I'm enjoying the ride!
Rob
Continuing with the veneer. As expected with the curve of the hull the veneer wants to lift off the hull on the edge surface. In order to relieve some of the "strain" I did not plank the full with of the ship but stopped a couple of inches from the start of the curve (the end of the plank is hiding beneath the tape as it was being glued into place).
I then angles slightly another piece of veneer to it intercepts the preceding piece. I marked where it overlapped the other veneer and cut it to shape.
This was then glued into position at the end of the shortened veneer plank.
Wee will see if this idea helps further on down the road (my apologies to Bruce Speensteen.)
I then angles slightly another piece of veneer to it intercepts the preceding piece. I marked where it overlapped the other veneer and cut it to shape.
This was then glued into position at the end of the shortened veneer plank.
Wee will see if this idea helps further on down the road (my apologies to Bruce Speensteen.)
Hope you do not mind a couple questions. I realize this is a fictional ship but here goes. Is there a reason you did not mark out the width of the planks on the first layer of planking so you know how much taper forward between the dead flat and stem? It makes it very easy to know how much to taper. Are you pre-bending across the breadth (edge bending) with heat or, water and heat?
To each his own, but I think you will find these things to be useful.
Allan
To each his own, but I think you will find these things to be useful.
Allan
I also accidentally pushed a few black plates inward while cutting out the gunports, so I’m definitely going to use this solution.Hi Rob, your Black Swan is looking fantastic! Among other things, I love the way your first layer of hull planking overlaps and transitions to the transom - well done! Agree with others, the mahogany veneer looks very nice.
As for your cannon port "oops" may I also suggest you glue in two small narrow pieces of wood on the inner surface to serve as "stops" for insertion of the replacement port piece? That way you don't have to be quite as precise on the dimensions or risk pushing it through (don't ask me how I know this
Keep it up, I'm enjoying the ride!
Great tip, Bill!
I did use water and heat for the planking. These veneer strips are so thin and flexible they are much more malleable. I have tried using water which does help but I don't see much happening when I use heat. It may be the nature of the wood or the thickness.
Rob
Taking Texbilly's advice for my knocking out the wood piece behind the cannon port, I glued 2 small wooden pieces behind the port using CA. With a fine pair of tweezers it was not difficult to do.
My use of the veneer is going slowly. I do not like it. I find it difficult to "edge" bend as it tends to crack and fall apart. I have started to lay the veneer letting it fall where it wants to along the curves and cutting the excess as it abuts preceding pieces of veneer.
Looking great, Rob! Sorry for your challenges with the veneer...will watch closely to learn!
Good morning Rob. Yep veneer is tricky to edge bend - almost impossible . When I did the veneer on my bounty renovation, I found it easier to taper and twist vs edge bending. Also a few dropper planks help solve the problem. The nice thing with veneer it does not give too much plank definition so any gaps can be filled with thinly cut wedges without changing the overall look of the hull planking. Definitely not my favourite medium to play with, however looks good when done. Cheers Grant
Thank you Grant. I have to agree with you. I am doing exactly what you are saying, tapering pieces and not forcing it to fit across the curves. IT is much easier to do that way. I am filling gaps with thin strips that do appear to blend in nicely.
As I said above in reply to Grant, I am doing pieces of the veneering at a time, allowing them to lay as the will along the curve and cutting them where they overlap the previous piece. If I knew then what I know now this is probably how I should have started it. However it is falling into place. Small gaps are taken care of by thin scraps.
I know the sapele is awful for ship models but the strips can still be tapered so every strake ends in the rabbet, not short of it and coming to a point. Not your doing in the least as this kind of planking method is used in many kits, but for the future, the better quality kit makers have planking that is easier to work with, and if I remember correctly some even supply spiled planks so no edge ending is needed.
One thing I do not like about this kit is that the keel is added after the planking. There is not rabbet to anchor the planking into. It is good to learn different techniques. However it always seems that I get up to speed at the end of a procedure. Hopefully I will get more proficient as time goes on.
Like anything else, the more we work at it, the better we get. Even then, you might want to look at kits from a high quality manufacturer for future projects. Most, if not all, kit makers are represented in build logs here at SoS so if you study them you should be able to find something that fits your needs and goals.
Allan
Allan,
In case you did not know this kit was given to me by a raffle here on SOS. The kind folk of OcCre donated the kit. In addition the wonderful people of Luczorama donated the OcCre's paint kit that provides the paints for the ship. Jimsky did a wonderful review of the kit and officiated for the raffle.
Rob