The Juanita Sternwheeler 1/24

[Bluebeard]

STERN TOWING MAST

After extensive research and reviewing the information available online, I concluded that Juanita is fitted with a stern towing light mast.

White light on top → the stern light, configured as an all-round or stern-facing white light depending on operational requirements.

Two yellow (amber) lights arranged vertically → towing lights in accordance with the Inland Navigation Rules, indicating a vessel engaged in towing or pushing operations.

The mast’s sole purpose is to elevate and properly separate the navigation and towing lights so they remain clearly visible and compliant with regulatory requirements.

This is how I scratch-built the mast.
All that remains is to reduce to scale and hand-paint the Virginia State flag visible in the reference photo.






I first drew what I believed to be the correct dimensions directly on my jig and then used it as a guide for the soldering.






The bases for the lights were made from small brass plates.

 

[Bluebeard]

THE SMAL RED AND WHITE CHAIR
I’m almost finished completing all the loose deck and sundeck fittings.
One small detail that caught my attention on the real Juanita was a little white and red chair positioned in front of the main structure.
Naturally, I had to build one.






What I did not anticipate was that it would take an entire week—and several failed attempts consigned to the scrap bin—before I finally worked out the correct sequence for soldering such a tiny chair.



The process required the use of multiple custom balsa jigs to maintain alignment and consistency during soldering. At this scale, alignment, heat control, and the order of assembly are absolutely critical.



The slightest excess of solder or even minimal movement during heating becomes immediately apparent.
















My first attempt at painting was done with a brush, but it left very noticeable brush marks that were unacceptable at this scale.
I ended up stripping the paint completely and refinishing the chairs using an airbrush.



For the red detailing, careful masking was required—and yes, I had to use my jeweller’s glasses to see what I was doing. The final outcome, however, was well worth the extra effort.



In many ways, it became a true shokunin experience — a lesson in patience, repetition, and craftsmanship, where improvement only comes through persistence and attention to the smallest details.


This is how it looks on the model.

 

[Bluebeard]

BACK SPALSH PAINT REPAIR

Since I’m done installing all the loose deck fittings, it was time to start assembling the paddle wheel. While test-fitting the parts, I noticed that the back splash board had a major flaw.
The red paint was badly damaged and full of tape marks. This happened because I didn’t allow enough drying time before applying masking tape to paint the other sections. Lesson learned the hard way.

To fix it, I had to strip the damaged area, remask everything, wet sand, and repaint.




All together I spent about four days reworking the back splash, but in the end the finish came out much better and smoother than before.
Sometimes going backwards is the only way to move forward in this hobby.

To repaint, this time Im using the DECANTING PROCESS.
How it’s usually done:

1. Insert a small straw into the spray nozzle
2. Spray into a glass jar or bottle.




3. The paint will come out mixed with propellant
Let it sit a few minutes until the bubbling stops.




Now the paint can be used in an airbrush.


In my case, since I’m using Behr No-Drama paint, I decanted the spray can and diluted the propellant-free paint 50/50 with mineral spirits. Using my airbrush set at about 25 psi, I got excellent results. I applied a mist coat, followed by a medium coat, and then a final heavier coat.

Now I will wait 48 hours before applying the Krylon Crystal Clear sealer.

 

[Bluebeard]

KRYLON CRYSTAL CLEAR

After allowing the paint to cure, I lightly sanded the surface and then applied the Krylon Crystal Clear. As before, I sprayed a mist coat, followed by a medium coat, and then a heavier coat, waiting about 30 minutes between coats.


Guess what… it wrinkled.



To repair the damage, I decided to try a different approach. I bought a couple of sets of very fine wet sandpaper from Amazon and started wet sanding the surface, beginning with 800 grit and gradually working my way down to 2000 grit until the wrinkles disappeared.


When the surface was smooth enough, I used a set of car polishes XMT Series, finishing the final shine with Best of Show giving the back splash a reflective shine.

 

[Roger Pellett]

Wonderful workmanship!

 

[Bluebeard]

Thanks, Roger. This hobby is definitely blood, sweat, and tears—but at least the glue holds everything together.”