The Mary Rose

Graham

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#43
Thanks for your kind words, guys. Joe, that is a great video and, again, thanks for taking the time to post it.
I am still fiddling around to get the three bulkhead fits correct whilst planking them as it is quite pivotal to getting a good fit with the bulwarks, so progress is slow but steady -

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I decided to plank the interior faces of the lower bulwarks using 0.5mm strip pre-painted -

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Hull now sanded - P3200010.JPG

and all cannon ports cut -

P3210012.JPG
 

Graham

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#47
Great vid Joe, Cheers.
The bulkheads are now finished. You can see here the overlap I have put on them which is sanded flat to the first planking and then overlapped with the second planking - P3190005.JPG

Fitted in place -

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Transom is next -

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Edges sanded and now we're off on the second planking which is 1 x 4mm walnut -

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You can see on the model that I have marked where the main frames are, the reason being that this is pretty much where they are on the actual ship. Hull planking on the actual ship is a hotch-potch of differing lengths and thicknesses, so I have opted to use the frame distances for the plank lengths and the fore and aft measurements do vary from those at the waist, so it should not look too regimented. Calking is represented by rubbing the plank edges with a graphite artist's pencil.
 

zoly99sask

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#48
Hello Graham,the planking looks superb.

Zoltan
 
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#50
Hi Graham, I really found your description of the Mary Rose very interesting, I must make an effort to visit the site in Portsmouth.
I really like your build especially your inclusion of the extra deck. I fancy building this kit but I would do a lot more research
before starting the build, great work.
 

Fright

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#51
Ladder holes tidied up and I decided to also edge them -
View attachment 34339

Centre line hatches in place and edged -

View attachment 34340

Remaining hatches build and in place -

View attachment 34341

No gratings have been found on the actual ship and access was either by open or covered hatch ways. Gratings, whilst stopping sailors falling down open hatches, also provided essential ventilation, so the Mary Rose must have been pretty dank and smelly below decks.

Deck beams to support the castle decks in place -

View attachment 34342

I think while I can get in between the decks before planking I might as well fit the four ladders, so will build those next. We all have things that we dislike making during a build (what's yours?) and with me it's ladders. I hate making ladders.
 

Graham

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#53
Thanks for your comments, guys.
Making slow but steady progress with the planking -

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Gunports will be trimmed out post sanding.

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Caulking on the majority of the actual hull is a mixture of cattle or calf hair mixed with a resin; goat hair was used on the keel scarf joints and some areas next to the keel contained organic fibres identified as probably flax. I can not find any information regarding whether they had a specific reason for using these differing materials in different areas, but like to think there was a logic to it which is now lost to us.
 

Peglegreg

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#54
G'day Graham
The planking looks supurb!
Its a very difficult job that you are doing and the results are showing how good you are as a modelshipwrite!
Keep up the great work and the photos!
Havagooday mate
Greg
 

Uwek

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#55
How you make the „caulking“? Are you using a paper between the planks or painting the edge with black felt pen? Or any other method?
BTW: your hull planking looks realy good! Good progress
 

Graham

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#56
Hi Uwe, thanks for your comment. I am using a charcoal artist's pencil which I got from a craft shop - you can just about make them out hanging on the backboard in the first of the three photos above - mine are by Faber Castell, but I am sure there are other makes. Following a discussion I had on this forum (sorry, I can't remember with whom) the use of paper was discredited because it can possibly fade over time, black felt pen was ruled out as it can soak in too much (depending on the type of wood) and sort of 'bleed' into the grain. I have never used either of these methods, so other builders may have differing views which would be good to hear. Using the charcoal pencil is easy and gives a good result, but it does tend to make your fingers a bit messy, so I just wash my hands every half hour or so in case I grab any already painted areas and mess them up. I prepare a few uncut strip lengths at a time by scrubbing the pencil along the edges, then when the plank is ready to fit I dab over the two cut ends and any other cut areas; I find the medium hardness pencil works the best. This is the first time I have used this method and, as we say in Yorkshire, the 'Proof of the Pudding' will be when I have sanded and coated it - fingers crossed for a good result!
If it looks Okay I will not paint the hull. During the excavation of the actual hull there was evidence of what is termed 'White Stuff' below the waterline, but this was not analysed at the time and has been lost as a result of the conservation process. The depiction in the Anthony Roll (see earlier post) indicates that there was some coating below the waterline, and this might be supported '...by the absence of wood boring damage'. Anyway, we'll see how it turns out and then make a decision. Regards.
 

zoly99sask

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#58
Hello Graham ,your plankig is looking great!!

Zoltan
 
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