THE MATTHEW / Lumberyard

Zoly, As I explained before, the only items that are lasser cut are the False Keel, the Bulkheads, Top Timbers, and the Stem, stern Post and the Keel every thing else is SCRATCH BUILT, THEREFORE CALLING IT A SEMI SCRATCH BUILD, from the plans and thePLANS AND THE PRACTORIUM YOU COULD SCRATCH BUILD THE ENTIRE MODEL, BUT FOR SOMEONE LIKE ME AT MY AGE(80 plus years) THE EYSIGHT, and HAND EYE COORDINATION IS NOT WHAT IT ONCE WAS, so I prefer to do it this way, get a better model with less detailed work to do, better for old minds. Don
 
didit said:
there is a very detailed set of drawings with 47 sheets however I do not know if there is a copyright or if anyone is allowed to use them so I will not post them all just 2 samples.

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Dave: There is a link to a file with all these drawings at the Navy Board Models site. Here is the file:
 

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ok I would but the complete collection is quite large if you wanted original files

but I can reduce them and post them which I will do.

I tried to contact the firm that did the drawings and could not find them on line so I contacted the ye Matthew site and so far got no reply

so ya I guess they are public domain unless this site tells me NO I will get the files ready and post them
 
Zoly, Dave described it better then me, as I explained, for some modelers, this is the only way to go, I can not scratch build the entire model, due to what my skill level, will alow me to do, the more, I think I have advanced enough to want to jump into some Scratch builds, I have fallen in love with POF builds especially the kits, THE CAUSTIC build that I did with Dave is a semi scratch build the log I think is on the MSB site, but I will not do a POF WITHOUT A BUILDING JIG, and I have three unfinshed POF models THAT I CAN NOT COMPLETE DUE TO NO JIG THE FRAMES I BUILT TURNED OUT VERY NICE BUT PUTTING ON THE KEEL IT WENT IN ALL DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS, I would love to do a POF FROM ANCRE but not WITHOUT A FRAMING JIG, DAVE IS CORECT IN WHAT HE SAYS ABOUT THE FURTHUR OLD SHIP MODEL BUILDING, remember Zoly the majority of ship model builders are both NOVICE AND INTERMEDIATE BUILDERS, who when they start need something to keep them comming back, MAYBE DAVE AND THE LUMBERYARD COULD OFFER THESE SERVICES, JUST MY OPION. Don
 
Daves, That would be great for a computer Ilterrate like me yes I would like to get them and have the sheets that I need done to my scale to help me out. Don
 
Well, I personally think the idea of semi-scratch is great.
 
It works well for me, it makes for a better mode, faster, and you continue to progress with new skills, but for this to happen you need a good set of modeling plans and especially good instructions or practorium, I will be posting pictures with some questions tommorrow. Don PS all help and crtisims are accpted
 
I plan to scratch build this. I need to figure out how to cut the little square "keys" on the bulkheads ( maybe more accurately "keyholes"). Probably drill a round hole and square up the corners with a small chisel.
 
my first pictures on this log and my first questions, picture of bevel on the profile piece is the bevel enough or should I bevel it more especially at the top of the bearding line, showing bulkhead No. 10 with top timber dry fitted the arrow showing the deck is this where I put the top of the filler blocks, the X mark indicates I have checked the dimensions port to starboard for the same distance the X indicates it is OK found just 2 that were not, problem was the top pieces of the profile piece deed to be adjusted slightly to correct this, the NEXT QUESTION is this I dry fitted bulkhead No. 10 to the profile piece and as you can see it drops well below the profile piece I think it should be at the top of the bearding line if so HOW MUCH DO I SAND OFF AFTER INSTALLING I SHOW A PENCIL LINE THAT I THINK IT SHOULD BE AM I CORRECT, also the prctorium says to remove the char after you install the bulkheads, I was afraid to do that as I might break the top timbers, so I removed the inside char before installing, I AM ASKING THE QUESTIONS NOW AS MY EXPIERENCE HAS BEEN THAT IF IT IS NOT RIGHT AT THE START OF THE BUILD IT JUST CONTINUES TO HAVE ERRORS ON THROUGH THE ENTIRE BUILD SO I TAKE EXTRA CARE AT THE START

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Don: When you dry fit bulkhead 10 to the profile former, is the top edge of the bulkhead (where the deck sits) even with the top edge of the profile former? Maybe bulkhead 10 needs a little shimming at the bottom to raise it up, rather than sanding wood off.
 
Hi Daves, Did you get a chance to review my build log on the Matthew, had a few questions do not want to mess up in the first stages of the build. THANKS Don
 
hum dave and dave lets use daves for dave stevens that way we know who is who


in theory the bulkheads should slide down the profile slot so the tops which is the deck line up with the profile top. if not then either file the bottom of the slot or add a shim which ever might be needed. When I built the model I was not that concerned if the bottoms of the bulkheads lined up perfectly at the bottom. You will have to sand off the char and taper the bulkheads anyhow so if there is a misalignment at the bottom you can make the adjustments.
I think it is better to line up the tops so you don't have any waves in the deck.
 
THIS IS FOR DAVES pictures of bulkheads no.11(mid ship) and No. 10, glued in place with filler pieces dry fitted, these filler pieces are a important feature of the model, extra strength Daves have I got it set right

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Hi Don,
You are off to a good start.
Do you know if Jeff used the drawings from Davis Engineering as the basis for his drawings of the Matthew? I am considering using the for a POF build. The drawings are well detailed and should be easy to work from.
Mike
 
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