The Naval Cutter ALERT- 1777, POF by Jimsky

Many thanks my friend Thumbsup Now I think I'm back to my original preference :cool: In my optic these looks right. Sorry, but i also like these better than the ones you made with syringe. I really like the macro photo. But of course, it is just a matter of personal taste. Either way, it is excellent work you do.
 
@PoulD Hello, my friend. Mystery solved, For the deck planking sample I use Castello planks, and...treenails made in the past time, most-likely different batch. This is why they show surprisingly dark. Yesterday, I made another test board and treenails from the same timber batch as deck planks. Both deck planks, as well as the treenails from Pear.

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Here is the actual test. On the left row, I top the needle with a hummer. The middle rows are treenails without blackening of any kind, The right row is just drilled (for other options?). Finished with one coat of Linseed oil, and rubbed with steel wool 400 gritt. I like the results!!!!

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and MACRO
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One more test. This one without caulking imitation.

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Not a fan of trunnels, but this is spectacular. Looks like real thing. Bravo maestro!
 
I like the first one most - means pear in pear without any color
The pear treenails are only slightly darker, due to the fact that you see the faces of the wood so 90° of the grain direction - this is everytime a little bit darker, often enough to simulate treenails........ and the oiling is pointing this a little bit more, because the easier permation of the oil over the wood face.....
Looking great
 
Time for the update, folks. To avoid getting sick, I decided to take a small break from the Thickstuff and the Deck clamp & beam shelves...so today, we will making cannons. But first, I'd like to express my thank you to all for the interests, comments and 'likes', they are very much appreciated.

As always, we reference the AOTS book for clarification and visualization, and today is no exception. With the detailed representation of all the parts of the cannon explained and presented on a scale of 1:24. This should be a very good help to assemble or build your own cannons, IMHO.

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When I look at the cannon parts supplying in the kit, I was kinda surprised to find out that it matches the parts with the above drawings. :) In another word, Trident didn't take a shortcut simplifying the construction of the cannons, all the parts match the AOTS book. Check it out for yourself.

All parts were cut out from their corresponding timber boards. The wooden parts, except the 'Fore and Hind Trucks', were CNC, and removing them was a bit of a challenge. Those parts are relatively small, but the cut was not thin enough to cut it with the hobby knife. This time, I found using the jewelry saw is a much better way. The trucks and Stool Bed, however, are laser cut so I used the hobby knife to release them from the board. Below all the wooden parts for a single cannon. On the left, all CNC cut parts, on the right are Laser cut parts.
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It took some time and effort until all the parts were preliminarily cleaned. Both Fore and Hind trucks were not perfectly round and required special treatment before use.
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Each truck consists of two parts glued together. I made two sets, each set a bit different approach. On the first set, I turned the wheels on the lathe, and glue each half to black paper. Once it dried, joined both parts together with glue. The second set, I use from the kit. And this time, I glued each wheel part using a very thin (0.3 mm) white timber. Then, I tight the weel in the mandrel and shape each weel to the desired size.
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The next step in the process is to bolt the wheels. For the fore trucks, I use 0.5mm copper wire, and for Hind trucks 4.00mm copper.
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The top four wheels are set #1 (self-made with black paper). The bottom 4 wheels are from the kit and joined using thin timber.
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All axletree parts rounded using the knife and sanding sticks. For mass production, I will come up with a tool to make them perfectly round and uniform. Below are all the parts ready for assembly.
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We start assembly with the carriage sides. They are made of two-part (parts FL141 and FL140), so while gluing them, pay attention to CNC notches. They have to match both carriage parts (see above photo). The next is the front axletree (part FL144). Both notches from the carriage side and axletree much match. You may widen both notches with a knife or file so the whole assembly fits snug. But don't glue yet, there is another part - transom (FL149) it has to go in the slot made by CNC on both sides. Make sure all three parts fit before gluing them together.
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The Hind axletree (part FL145) assembled in the same manner, the notches on the axletree must match the notches on the carriage sides. The difference is, instead of the transom part you will fit - bolster (part FL146). For some reason, I forgot to take a photo of this process. :eek: Below are images of the finished carriage assembly.
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This was the most difficult part. The next is the barrels. They and capsquares are beautifully cast and required some minor cleaning. We will use the 'Brass black' to make them 'Iron blue' color. To make the barrel looking more authentic I lightly rub between the fingers with graphite powder.
IMG_1872(1).jpg

The rest is just a matter to 'Dress up' the cannon. Reinforcement bolts, eyelets, and ring bolts. I use my creativity and my own stash to dress up. Well, this is it. I am really happy with the kit provided cannon. It is well designed, but all the parts require to make a perfect fit. The wheels are not perfectly round and require special attention\care while making them round. You must control the overall size. The timber for the carriage sides on my board comes in two colors (light and dark). The wheels are turning dark (after the oil).
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The finishing images in the next post (25 images limit for a single post)
 
The overall appearance is below after a single coat of Linseed oil (continue from the previous post)

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Bottom line. The kit supplied great cannon parts which make complete cannons out of the box, without major modifications. It does require some work cleaning and makes it fit. But in the end, you will be rewarded with nice-looking cannon without an additional source of material and parts.

That's all folks for today...Thank you and will talk to you soon.:)
 
Very impressive!, BTW dont't loose any of the small round wheel parts as left overs small one's are used in the double anchor pulleys & cat heads.( I learnt the hardway!). It's not in the book but is in the photos from Trident.
Many thanks, Paul. A very good hint from former Alerter! But you are still on alert for our builds! :) Thumbsup
 
Time for the update, folks. To avoid getting sick, I decided to take a small break from the Thickstuff and the Deck clamp & beam shelves...so today, we will making cannons. But first, I'd like to express my thank you to all for the interests, comments and 'likes', they are very much appreciated.

As always, we reference the AOTS book for clarification and visualization, and today is no exception. With the detailed representation of all the parts of the cannon explained and presented on a scale of 1:24. This should be a very good help to assemble or build your own cannons, IMHO.

View attachment 218086 View attachment 218087

When I look at the cannon parts supplying in the kit, I was kinda surprised to find out that it matches the parts with the above drawings. :) In another word, Trident didn't take a shortcut simplifying the construction of the cannons, all the parts match the AOTS book. Check it out for yourself.

All parts were cut out from their corresponding timber boards. The wooden parts, except the 'Fore and Hind Trucks', were CNC, and removing them was a bit of a challenge. Those parts are relatively small, but the cut was not thin enough to cut it with the hobby knife. This time, I found using the jewelry saw is a much better way. The trucks and Stool Bed, however, are laser cut so I used the hobby knife to release them from the board. Below all the wooden parts for a single cannon. On the left, all CNC cut parts, on the right are Laser cut parts.

View attachment 218093

It took some time and effort until all the parts were preliminarily cleaned. Both Fore and Hind trucks were not perfectly round and required special treatment before use.

View attachment 218094

Each truck consists of two parts glued together. I made two sets, each set a bit different approach. On the first set, I turned the wheels on the lathe, and glue each half to black paper. Once it dried, joined both parts together with glue. The second set, I use from the kit. And this time, I glued each wheel part using a very thin (0.3 mm) white timber. Then, I tight the weel in the mandrel and shape each weel to the desired size.

View attachment 218095

The next step in the process is to bolt the wheels. For the fore trucks, I use 0.5mm copper wire, and for Hind trucks 4.00mm copper.

View attachment 218096 View attachment 218097

The top four wheels are set #1 (self-made with black paper). The bottom 4 wheels are from the kit and joined using thin timber.
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All axletree parts rounded using the knife and sanding sticks. For mass production, I will come up with a tool to make them perfectly round and uniform. Below are all the parts ready for assembly.

View attachment 218099

We start assembly with the carriage sides. They are made of two-part (parts FL141 and FL140), so while gluing them, pay attention to CNC notches. They have to match both carriage parts (see above photo). The next is the front axletree (part FL144). Both notches from the carriage side and axletree much match. You may widen both notches with a knife or file so the whole assembly fits snug. But don't glue yet, there is another part - transom (FL149) it has to go in the slot made by CNC on both sides. Make sure all three parts fit before gluing them together.

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The Hind axletree (part FL145) assembled in the same manner, the notches on the axletree must match the notches on the carriage sides. The difference is, instead of the transom part you will fit - bolster (part FL146). For some reason, I forgot to take a photo of this process :eek: Below are images of the finished carriage assembly.
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This was the most difficult part. The next is the barrels. They and capsquares are beautifully cast and required some minor cleaning. We will use the 'Brass black' to make them 'Iron blue' color. To make the barrel looking more authentic I lightly rub between the fingers with graphite powder.

View attachment 218110

The rest is just a matter to 'Dress up' the cannon. Reinforcement bolts, eyelets, and ring bolts. I use my creativity and my own stash to dress up. Well, this is it. I am really happy with the kit provided cannon. It is well designed, but all the parts require to make a perfect fit. The wheels are not perfectly round and require special attention\care while making them round. You must control the overall size. The timber for the carriage sides on my board comes in two colors (light and dark). The wheels are turning dark (after the oil).

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The finishing images in the next post (25 images limit for single post)
Please help me extend my dictionary. . . what are the AOTS and IMHO acronyms????
Once known it is probably obvious but until then just mysteries. . .. .oh yes, this looks like it will be a nice small naval cannon. Rich (Pt-2)
 
Please help me extend my dictionary. . . what are the AOTS and IMHO acronyms????
Once known it is probably obvious but until then just mysteries. . .. .oh yes, this looks like it will be a nice small naval cannon. Rich (Pt-2)
No worries, Rich!
1) The AOTS stands for Anatomy Of The Ship. This is series of books about a particular ship. It is a kinda monograph, similar to ANCE publication, however doesnt comes with separate printed plans. All plans inside the book. Check this out.


Peter Goodwin wrote the book 'The Naval Cutter Alert 1777' is part of this series. I use this book as the reference for my build
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2) IMHO In My Humble Opinion :)
 
No worries, Rich!
1) The AOTS stands for Anatomy Of The Ship. This is series of books about a particular ship. It is a kinda monograph, similar to ANCE publication, however doesnt comes with separate printed plans. All plans inside the book. Check this out.


Peter Goodwin wrote the book 'The Naval Cutter Alert 1777' is part of this series. I use this book as the reference for my build
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2) IMHO In My Humble Opinion :)
IMHO you gave me a great reply and reference link. Thanks, Rich
 
One of the most beautiful guns/gun carriages I've seen. You nailed it Jim! What's the material used for gun barrels/capsquares?
Thanks, Mon Amie. Honestly, I don't know what is the actual material for barrels and capsquares. In fact, all castings in the kit are made from this material. I suspect, it is one of those Tin\Zink alloys. It is hard but easy to process with sanding drums and polishing tools. It is 'blackening' very good with Brass black.
The carriages designed and show the same parts as in Peter's book (very much). I wish the CNC processed a bit deeper, or cut thru the timber, It was a challenge to remove from the timber board. I used the jeweler's saw instead. But the cannons are definitely great out of the box and fun to assemble.
 
Hallo Jimsky, beautifully built gun. Absolutely high-end execution. I am totally thrilled, just great.
Many thanks, Aldi!! The compliments should go to the kit manufacturer, for the most part. I must confirm, It is well designed\made parts. I just dressed up a little bit... ;)
 
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