It is my pleasure! We are helping each other! We are SOS!
Excellent tutorial Jim. Thank you
Those darn, round router bits!
Those darn, round router bits!
Thanks, John. Nothing really to worry about. We have about 73 frames...you will have a chance to practice. I am sure you will master it close to the end. While it is a challenging task, it is very important to keep the frames in the original shape\geometry.Excellent tutorial Jim. Thank you
Those darn, round router bits!
Have you tried a square file and working your way into a nice corner or is that something that can be prone to errors?
Obviously, there are other methods you can achieve this task. Using the file is one of them, but... as you already said you could make it wors. When using a file you have to control 4 edges (see below)
You are risky to remove wood from any of the edges and made this part unusable. The size and shape of this part are a perfect fit. No need to sand any of the scarph surfaces, except that corner, If you do make a mistake on that corner you can fill it with glue, but the frame shape will be untouched.
Thanks, good advise. 
Hi be aware that there are also chocks with coveex surfaces, not just concave & flat. You will find when you Polish ( i love that term for sanding) the ribs you will bevel into the chocks and across the bolt points. I have found that if you use the appropriately numbered chock for the rib they fit better.. The Jig for assembly is sensational and with a tight fit with wrap its pushes the parts together well.
I'm ordering another 100 today
A sharp blade is essential!And a fantastic tutorial Jim, much to be learned here.
I wounder if Chinese kit makers are in cahoots with Chinese no 11 blade makers! 
HI JIM, THIS IS ONE HELL OF A TUTTORIAL CONGRATS. ON THIS. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE BYOU AND YOURS DON
Yes, Paul, good catch! You are correct, there is a third type of chocks with convex. The chocks on the timber board labeled according instruction manual.
While I am prepping for the next post, I have a real dilemma -simulating bolts. I made a decision to use brass wire, but...do they went all the way through the chocks? Also, what is the pattern for bolting the scarf joints? Alert has two types of scarph joints for frames: short and long, they should be different or? I can not find any documentation. Anyone can clarify?
A bolt has to go through both sides so you have on both sides a head
BTW: A very good and informative building log - Great work (but not only the log - also modeling!!!)
Many thanks my friend for the comments and help!! One question resolved: the upper image (b) clearly shows bolts are going thru!
I am still puzzled with the plain scarph bolting pattern (same image), it doesn't show any? What do you think?
There were minimum three bolts per joint, but they were very rarely usedMany thanks my friend for the comments and help!! One question resolved: the upper image (b) clearly shows bolts are going thru!
View attachment 182329
...and, we have goten the winner!! Many thanks!
Hate to rain on this, but there were several variations, both through with plates, without plates, & pinned ( not bolts) and no bolts ( locking scarf joints). Looking at image from Alert Anat book , you can clearly see that the bolts would not have gone though both sides of both timbers as the are short the full depth ( see top left corner.) . This process changed significantly through the ages. Anyway again it boils down to your pref for the kit.