The Schooner Bluenose 1921, POF Yuanqing Models 1:72 [COMPLETED BUILD]

Daniel20 said:
Sunday evening and the first nice cool front of fall has finally arrived. Not a big update but an interesting one for me. I have formed what they call 'bails', not unlike the bail you might find on a spinning reel. The first one goes on the top bracket that connects the fore main and fore topmast. There are two hooks that I braised to the bail as per the Jenson drawing shown and it was surprisingly easy to accomplish once I figured out how to hold the pieces and apply heat.

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Next up is the bail at the main mast main top connection. There is a curious starboard side ring that everybody has (I do not know what it is for yet) but have included it.

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And lastly, I have a forestay bail located in the bow over the bow sprit. Everything is dry fit for now, still need to paint and make sure I am ready to permanently install. I study Jenson, and the other masters who have placed sails on their ships until I'm blue in the face and I know there will be some important hard to get to fitting I'll leave off that a sail needs to have. I've already found two eyes to install on the underside of the fore mast trestle tree for the Jumbo sail halyard. now I have to drill upside down into the trestletree.

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Hope you enjoy and thanks for looking in.
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Your soldering work looks very nice, even in macro ……. :) And nice to see the differences between Jenson and MS/Lankford about the bail you made on the foremast.
And about the starboard side ring: the Fore Topmast Counterstay (Pull Back) is attached to that eye.
The foremast has also such a ring on the portside: for the Main Topmast Stay.
See page 32 of Jenson’s Saga, but not clearly drawn. MS/Lankford made a better detailed view.
Regard, Peter
 
Peter Voogt said:
Your soldering work looks very nice, even in macro ……. :) And nice to see the differences between Jenson and MS/Lankford about the bail you made on the foremast.
And about the starboard side ring: the Fore Topmast Counterstay (Pull Back) is attached to that eye.
The foremast has also such a ring on the portside: for the Main Topmast Stay.
See page 32 of Jenson’s Saga, but not clearly drawn. MS/Lankford made a better detailed view.
Regard, Peter
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Hi Peter, thank you for the information about side rings, especially the main topmast stay tie to the foremast bail on the port side. I will get that added.
 
There's a lot of detailing going on on those masts and it's very easy to get lost in the various sources.
I try to stick religiously to the MS drawings, but every now and again I deviated from the details presented by MS (mostly because I made some errors and had to improvise...)
Even thought I tried to get all the necessary details on the masts prior to stepping the masts, I still missed the occasional detail.
Your work on the masts look outstanding, especially the soldered hooks.
 
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RDN1954 said:
There's a lot of detailing going on on those masts and it's very easy to get lost in the various sources.
I try to stick religiously to the MS drawings, but every now and again I have deviate from the details presented by MS (mostly because I made some errors and had to improvise...)
Even thought I tried to get all the necessary details on the masts prior to stepping the masts, I still missed the occasional detail.
Your work on the masts look outstanding, especially the soldered hooks.
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Thanks Johan, soldering paste makes the soldering possible as I can put it between the parts freeing up both my hands. If I had to hold a solder wire and the torch it would not be possible at least for me. I probably should have acquired a copy of MS/Lankford but at this stage I will try to carefully follow you and Peter.
 
Daniel20 said:
Good morning, everyone.
A little bit of progress and a possibly a better mouse trap. I began placing the hull planking and decided that leaving the jig frame in place provides the best stable platform for this operation. Once completed I will remove it. I use my trusty plank bender (womans hair curler) which works really well. Just dip the end in water a minute or two then heat and bend.

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I tried several methods to hold some of the more argumentative planks fast to the frames and came up with this. It works great! Take a simple paperclip bend it as shown, insert between the ribs and turn it 90 deg then wedge it in place.

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Hope you enjoy, and happy modeling.
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Thanks for sharing the paperclip wedge tip. Not sure when I’ll use it, but it good to have in my toolbox for when it’s needed.
 
Daniel20 said:
Hello again, I have a little more progress developing the Haws holes in the bow nose. There are some really fine examples on this forum and mine look rather bland in comparison, but they will work. I should have installed them prior to the dark blue paint, had a lot of touch up to do around the holes. The idea was to achieve the oval shape and with my awful carving skills this is the result. If someone wants to shame me into doing a better job, I may consider it.

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Next up I spent quite some time trying to dry fit the rail cap boards and realized there is only one position which will afford the shroud strap assemblies to miss the drain scuppers (except for one). I believe the 1:1 plans are incorrect on this but my solution will work. When this situation is combined with my slightly longer hull, I will have to insert an extension piece on each side at 7mm each. I will do this on the rear rail caps in the narrow section just before it widens out
at the aft piece. All of the main mast shroud straps will miss the drain scuppers. This adjustment will allow for at least a 1 to 2 mm cap rail overhang.

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For all of you BN builders out there who had a perfect build without adjustments, my hat is off to you.
Till next time.
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Simply beautiful build Daniel. How did you cut the thin holes for the shroud assemblies?
 
HughLo said:
How did you cut the thin holes for the shroud assemblies?
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Hello HughLo, thanks for joining in on my build. If you're referring to the thin slits in the cap rail where the shroud straps penetrate through, they were pre laser cut in the kit's parts supply. I would not be able to slice something that thin.
 
Daniel20 said:
Hello HughLo, thanks for joining in on my build. If you're referring to the thin slits in the cap rail where the shroud straps penetrate through, they were pre laser cut in the kit's parts supply. I would not be able to slice something that thin.
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Thanks. That’s what I was wondering about. I’m not building the Yuanqing BN, but the Model Shipways BN. I’m making the rail and was looking for help as mine are not laser cut.
 
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