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Titanic Trumpeter 1/200 by InkMot

Installing The Boat Deck​

This is a quick post to tie-off my Boat Deck work and installation.

The Boat Deck mounts on top of the A Deck structures, but it lacks any alignment pins or slots. You have to look for alignment around the stair case openings and check around the top edges of the A Deck structures. This is particularly important with the Woody’s Model Works beam set. I spent time ensuring that the beams weren’t getting caught on the top edges of the A Deck structures. I also checked to see if the Boat Deck and A deck were aligned. This is critical to ensuring that the Woody’s A&B deck superstructure PE will align correctly on the outside later on.

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Looking at the underside of the Boat Deck to check alignment with A Deck structures.

I used standard Tester’s model cement to secure the boat deck. I like this stuff - reminds me of my youth. ;) It also forms an excellent bond and stays wet long enough to make adjustments. I piled a ton of weight on top of the Boat deck to ensure that it fit snugly.

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Boat Deck being held in place with pretty much everything that I could find to weigh it down.

With this step done, it’s on to installing the Woody’s A&B Deck superstructure and the Bridge!
 

Pre-Installing the Bridge

The Woody’s Model Works A&B Deck Superstructure kit included the forward bridge structure. I think this makes a nice upgrade what is provided with the kit. I considered whether to install the bridge first and then install the A&B Deck superstructure sides second. I ended up shaping and pre-fitting the bridge structure and then switching to installing the sides, returning to glue the bridge in place later. In retrospect, I should’ve glued the bridge in place first and then attached the sides, since they’ll but up against the bridge when they’re installed.

I will describe the work as I accomplished it.

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Painted bridge halves cemented together and annealed. Note the burnt paint.

The kit provides the main bridge superstructure in two pieces: front and back. I glued mine together using E6000. I pre-painted my parts by spraying them while still in the photo etch sheets. I’d recommend that you hold off on painting until everything is assembled. You’ll want to anneal the bridge superstructure to make it easier to shape the curves on the forward edge of the Boat Deck. As you can see in the photo, annealing a painted part gets messy. I created more work for myself sanding off the burnt paint, primering, etc.

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The kit includes storm shutters that must be glued below the bridge windows. For some reason, my version of the kit only provided 8 shutters and I had to make the 9th from styrene (I realized later that the MK1 detail kit also contains shutters). The substitute shutter is the fourth one from the right.

To install the Woody’s bridge, you will need to use the lower half of the kit bridge - the B-Deck superstructure. There is a molded line where you need to cut it. I didn’t photograph this. It’s an important link in the assembly.

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Bridge superstructure shaped and set loosely into place. Check your curves using the teak steps included in the kit. This will matter later. Also ensure that the bottom edge fits flush against the top edge of the B-Deck superstructure.

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Another alignment to check is the vertical alignment from the side (this picture makes my alignment seem tilted forward). I also checked that the vertical alignment continued along the face of the B-Deck superstructure.

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Dry fit the forward boat deck structure / wheel house to ensure that the top edge of the bridge windows aligns precisely with the bridge roof.


After I was satisfied with the shape of my bridge, I spent time sanding off the burnt paint, and re-spraying with primer and white paint.

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Re-sprayed bridge superstructure showing masked areas to protect bare brass gluing areas from paint.


Next Steps:
  1. Installing A&B Deck Side Superstructures
  2. Completing the Bridge Installation
  3. Bridge Details
 
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