To victory and beyond ...

Thank you Kirill, nice concept.

But I like a certain uneveness in the shrouds. Also as my shrouds have a certain elastivity, they are pulled down by 1 - 3 mm, so I adjust this with the tension over the lanyards.

Also I checked on contemporary models and real ships and it is quite common for not having a completely levelled line for the upper deadeyes.

XXXDAn
 
This was the last stand, the deadeyes tied into the shroud and the lanyards threaded in but still loose.

Victory-dead-eyes-240923_0083.jpg


The next step was to pull the lanyards through over the deadeye and under the shroud eye. I always use a threader from my sewing supplies, it's simply the best help for this.

Victory-shrouds-240928_0250.jpg


Then, when wrapping the lanyard around the shroud, pass it under the last row of yarn from the deadeye, so that it clamps itself, then make 5 more turns and tie the end to the shroud.

Victory-shrouds-240930_0260.jpg


Yay, another milestone victory!

As my shrouds are slightly elastic, I also used this to adjust the upper deadeyes a little when tensioning the lanyards. I don't like it completely leveled anyway, as you can also see in the originals and in contemporary models that the different elasticity of the manually made ropes leads to different lengths of the shrouds when tensioning, and thus to slightly varying heights of the deadeyes.

XXXDAn
 
I love that the color of the shrouds is like the brown Stockholm pine tar used on the actual ships rather than black road tar. Nicely done.
Allan
 
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Objection your honor! Not Ship-Shape! Not Bristol Fashion!

Somehow I remembered that the free ends of the deadeye lanyards were tied up that high. I searched for a while to see what reference I had for the high-tie - but I couldn't find anything that had got me there. The old section model didn't look like that either. That's why I got protest elsewhere, which I had nothing to counter except for: Demolition!

Victory-Shrouds-241001_0299.jpg


Fortunately, I only use very little glue thanks to my fine glue nozzles :-)

It was still a fiddle to get the stuff out of the rope. But now it actually looks much neater.

XXXDAn
 
Once the shrouds are tightened, the futtock staves could be fixed for good. Fortunately, I had only tacked them on so far, as the position was visibly out of line after the shrouds had been tensioned.

The last status was this:

Victory-shrouds-240919_0037.jpg


To align the futtock staves, I placed crosspieces on the protrusions of the two staves and was thus able to adjust them well.

Victory-shrouds-240930_0270.jpg


Then the futtock staves and the shrouds were knotted together and the overhang cut off.

Victory-shrouds-240930_0296.jpg


It is amazing how much these futtock staves contribute to the stability of the shrouds, even in a model.

XXXDAn
 
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And the next stage was already on the agenda, I had just glued the fightig top onto the trestle trees when I remembered all the blocks that were needed underneath ...

... so I quickly tore the fightig top off and removed the glue residue. Well, that's the way it always goes with me.

At least 4 small single blocks for the leech line and two double blocks for the buntlines have to go under there. But as I can't say for sure that that's all there is - as always, there are very many different sources - I have also fitted the other suspension points with blocks. But cutting them off is always easier than retrofitting them once all other things are installed.

Based on the tests I had already presented some time ago, the first block still took just as long as the other eleven. But I had to develop a good strategy for them.

First, I pressed the block onto a needle as usual and stropped it in. I secured the strop well with glue and only cut off the short end of the strop, but not the seizing ends.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0626.jpg


Then tie the remaining long leg with the seizing as a loop. The seizing has a double knot, but is not glued so that the loop can move.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0627.jpg


A thin thread with slip-through protection is passed through the hole from above ...

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0630.jpg


... and threads the loop of the block on the underside and ...

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0632.jpg


... pulls the loop onto the top and secure it temporarily with a wire hook.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0634.jpg


Then pull the long leg on the underside to bring the block to the correct length.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0635.jpg


Then carefully pull out the wire on the upper side, insert the toggle and tighten it again from below.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0637.jpg


Now a drop of glue on the through hole and knot and neaten everything up. Done.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0639.jpg


A little hint in between: And always take documentary photos of the rope thicknesses ;-)

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0641.jpg


And the result looks like this.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0642.jpg


Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0647.jpg


Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0651.jpg


And the exciting moment, the fightig top can finally really be glued in :-)

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0677.jpg


Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0683.jpg


Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0686.jpg


Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0691.jpg


And then finally: another milestone reached! Even my little Midshipman is happy.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0669.jpg


XXXDAn
 
Daniel!
My congratulations! It turns out cool! I look with great pleasure! This is one of my favorite series, :)I would likr to say!
And all the time I remember your work with that stone boat! That was some real spiritual vewing experiance for me !!!
 
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Oh, that's Awesome! Wonder if it's still there? Will also have to try Jagertee. We do "Christmas Coffee" here, strong black coffee with Baileys Irish Cream in it.
 
Next, I took care of the cleats for the hangers of the jeer blocks. In Portsmouth they are in the form of a bracket. All other literature that does not base on the restored ship show a shoulder piece.
So the brackets from my printed parts go into the bin. Its up to the shoulder

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0710.jpg


I took the opportunity to determine the length of the hangers, as I don't know how they will be accessible later.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0712.jpg


But more on the jeers later.

And then it's finally its turn, the top mast.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0702.jpg


Placed in front of the mast, it is threaded through the trestle trees of the fighting top and pulled upwards using 2 pulleys in the foot.

Victory-Fighting-Top-241009_0706.jpg


Here are some older pictures. The top gallant mast was also raised in this way, it is basically a very simple telescopic lift.

Victory-171003_6570.jpg


Victory-171003_6557.jpg


Victory-171003_6562.jpg


XXXDAn
 
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