Trumpeter 1:200 Titanic

Hi ChrisSC,
I am following your work and I found the suggestions on how to paint and the use of the airbrush very useful .... very interesting: there is a lot to learn!

Don't mind my English: I use the Google translator.
 
I have the 1/200 Bismarck also and painted the hull same way... I used Tamiya sprays... hand air brushing not an option for that surface area imo
I used TS-33 for anti-fowling as previously mentioned for all my hulls!
Instead of using an airbrush with a .2 or .3 needle try one with a .5 or use a mini spray gun with a .8 or 1mm needle
 
Hi, I’ve just posted some pictures of my finished build in the completed models section, you may be interested.

Ken
 
Second round with the hull finishing... realigned the anti-fowling line but still not positive on its location. Followed as best the paint guide and other images on the net.
Applied white primer on the top section to be covered in the middle with flat black next and a yellow pinstripe down the side next.View attachment 134901View attachment 134902View attachment 134903View attachment 134904
Looking good. I'm at this stage, more or less, and I'm wondering what white primer you used, and what white paint will be used. I've had nothing but trouble trying to use Tamiya white, but good luck with all other colors. Thanks, Dave
 
Hi Dave, I used an ordinary acrylic aerosol primer for the undercoat then Vallejo for the top coat, they have model colour for brush, very nice and model air for spraying. I would recommend Vallejo for good results. Good luck with your build, what a terrific kit this is.

Ken
 
Hi Dave,
I have just restarted working on my Trumpeter Titanic, after two months away.
i used Tamiya gray surface primer as my undercoat, Tamiya Nato black TS 63 for the topsides and oxide red primer for the anti fouling.

Beau.2948BF71-88EE-4819-9839-FC887C01AB05.jpeg45873590-87E8-4BAD-9500-FBFA3223E2DD.jpeg754FD239-994E-46BE-B3DE-D3E36A41419B.jpeg
 
Hi Jeff,
I trust you are keeping well.
Today I received the Pontos detail set for the 1/200 Titanic and noticed when checking all the brass-photo etched frets, that part no: G48 which goes around the fore deck hatch was missing.
I am curious to know if it was missing from your detail set as it’s very strange when it’s clearly marked on the instructions.
Could you please let me know.
Thanks,

Beau
 
I have that set, and G48 is there, but is mostly a big square hole. The part is maybe 1/32 in wide around the perimeter of this hole.
 
Hi Jeff,
I trust you are keeping well.
Today I received the Pontos detail set for the 1/200 Titanic and noticed when checking all the brass-photo etched frets, that part no: G48 which goes around the fore deck hatch was missing.
I am curious to know if it was missing from your detail set as it’s very strange when it’s clearly marked on the instructions.
Could you please let me know.
Thanks,

Beau
I have that set, and G48 is there, but is mostly a big square hole. The part is maybe 1/32 in wide around the perimeter of this hole. Dave
 
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the info.
it’s most strange that mine was cut out of the fret, but I contacted Trumpeter and have been told that they will send me a replacement.
I also have the KA models detail set coming and the combing which goes around the foredeck hatch is in the set, so I should have everything I need.
Beau.
 
This will surely become a fantastic model.

I personally built in the late 1980's the 1/350 version by Entex, which I was able to superdetail with some of the first PE sheets on the market, made by Golden Metal Models. The etching was of course basic compared to what's now on the market, but it raised the standard of this model for sure. I have always thought that this model was plagued with a horrible hull, the plating detail being terribly out of scale. This 1/200 version will, I hope be on par with today's standards, although the raised hull plates could still be a little too prominent, and the riveting has apparently been skipped while this is one of the rare instances where they may have been visible at this scale
A second point is the recess for the bow anchor. I remember I had to add this detail that was forgotten on the Entex model. But I think I remember that this recess was much deeper than on the Trumpeter kit, where the bow anchor is well visible on deck, while it should be concealed in the recess. Worth correcting and fairly easy to do.

Happy modelling

JP
 
Hull painted the bottom section anti-fowling... used Tamiya Fine Surface primer in Oxide Red and then Tamiya Dull Red TS33 which is what I use for all anti-fowling on all my ship builds so far it is the closest match I can find in a spray can. I cannot imagine or entertain the notion to hand airbrush a model of that scale!View attachment 134687
Hull painted the bottom section anti-fowling... used Tamiya Fine Surface primer in Oxide Red and then Tamiya Dull Red TS33 which is what I use for all anti-fowling on all my ship builds so far it is the closest match I can find in a spray can. I cannot imagine or entertain the notion to hand airbrush a model of that scale!View attachment 134687
I think this looks spectacular. I too used the oxide primer but didn’t apply any top coat. Exceptionally done!
 
For the water line, count the number of mounting brackets for the rudder. The water line should be even with the top of the fifth rudder bracket. A good way to get the proper waterline is to place a block that is the proper height and holding a pencil on it, move it along the hull, lightly marking the water line.
 
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